(Yet Another) Spa Panel Install

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Old 08-17-15, 05:33 AM
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(Yet Another) Spa Panel Install

This forum helped me install a sub-panel in a new construction detached garage a few years ago. It turned out perfectly and earned me high marks from my contractor. I'd like the same results here. I've reviewed recent threads and found many helpful tips already.

I've contacted my local inspector - no local code to observe. Adherence to NEC per his email.

There will be two portions of run, interior through my attached garage and exterior which will stub out of attached garage directly to spa disconnect panel and continue to hot tub 10' away.

All panel connections will be done by electrician as well as connections from spa panel to the hot tub.

So what's left for me to actually do? Simply run required #6 conductors from my basement to the spa disconnect panel through my attached garage. 100% of the run is interior but I want to terminate in a JB and convert from Romex to individual conductors for very short run to spa disconnect panel through common wall.

I know pictures help so here are a few with general comments listed below each for clarity.

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This is wall where Romex will stub out from my basement to my garage. I plan to "sleeve" the Romex in 1-1/4" PVC for vertical run up my wall to truss above. You can see a #12 run in the image. That's where I'm headed and will parallel that wire all the way across garage. I plan to use an elbow and continue in PVC into next image......

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The run resumes above and continues its parallel run to #12 you see in image. Again, I'm "sleeving" Romex all the way as run is perpendicular to truss and boring holes is not a desired option.

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The ceiling run ends in this area. I will terminate run in PVC and continue ROMEX vertically downward behind pegboard to the JB. This will end run in Romex and begin run in individual conductors out to sub panel that shares this common wall. I'm aware the JB can not be concealed and I will add an access panel on surface of pegboard.

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This exterior patio. The window seen here and in 2nd image are the same. Nice open area for hot tub.

IN CONCLUSION:

Any red flags here folks? Any issues with my plan to run Romex vertically downward behind pegboard and convert to individual conductors in a 1-1/4" PVC JB for run to exterior disconnect panel?

It should be pretty straight forward. I'm aware that disconnect panel must be no closer than 5' and line of sight. I know that GFCI outlet must be accessible.

I think that's about it and I hope to have provided a pretty clear picture(s) of what I'm intending.

Thanks for all input!
 
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Old 08-17-15, 05:48 AM
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Aside from following NEC rules, I would run conduit for the entire run across the garage ceiling. The wires must be protected, and it is easier and possibly cheaper to run conduit and THWN for the full run than buying #6 cable, and making junctions.
 
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Old 08-17-15, 06:00 AM
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If you are going to run the 6/3 along the rafters along side the 12/2, I would suggest running Romex the entire way. Cables that are inside framing are considered protected per NEC, no conduit needed.

You will also need a GFCI receptacle at the disconnect for servicing. I suggest getting a spa disconnect that has two extra spaces like this: Eaton 60 Amp Type CH Spa Panel-CH60SPA - The Home Depot or this: Eaton 50 Amp Type CH Spa Panel-CH50SPA - The Home Depot
 

Last edited by Tolyn Ironhand; 08-17-15 at 06:23 AM.
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Old 08-17-15, 06:18 AM
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Chandler,

The entire run horizontally across my truss will be with #6/3 Romex that's sleeved through 1-1/4" non-metallic PVC. It should be very, very well protected.

I've made full runs using THWN and non-metallic before (see my thread to detached garage) and understand there could be a cost savings. But I only need 50' of Romex to reach the planned junction box AND THEN converting to individual conductors.

I'm not concerned with the cost and don't want to enclose conductors via conduit/PVC for entire run due to space constraints in my basement.
 
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Old 08-17-15, 06:22 AM
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Tolyn,

You are 100% correct. My entire interior run will be in Romex. I will be converting from Romex to THWN only when I reach JB just prior to stubbing outside for spa panel disconnect (last image area).

It's my understanding that running Romex out to spa disconnect is not allowed per the NEC.

As for your links to panels, I got the Eaton at HD.
 
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Old 08-17-15, 06:51 AM
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Romex can run to the disconnect as long as it is mounted on the house. From the disconnect to the tub has to be THWN in conduit. Did your inspector say which revision of NEC your city follows?
 
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Old 08-17-15, 06:55 AM
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Thanks ibpooks,

He actually said NEC2011 but it was my understanding that Ohio has converted to NEC2014.

State Adoptions - Electrical Code Coalition

I didn't clarify in follow up however. Does something stick out to you?

Sticking to your point, my disconnect will be mounted to house but I don't think there's a direct entry in the back of the panel. At least a few feet will have to be fed via PVC if I'm not mistaken.

I don't have the panel yet. Should by mid-week.
 
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Old 08-17-15, 07:28 AM
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The panel should have a rear KO. I usually make up a 2-3" stub of PVC conduit sticking out of the rear KO, hole saw about a 1-1/8" into the house and poke the conduit through. Feed in the cable, then foam and/or caulk up all the gaps.
 
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Old 08-17-15, 07:29 AM
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Even UF cable could not be used outside because the ground on the outside portion must be insulated. (Bare is okay inside.)
 
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Old 08-17-15, 07:53 AM
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Sounds great Ben!

Rear panel KO will obviously eliminate my need to install a junction box prior to exterior stub. I will follow your installation recommendations once I've got the box in hand! Greatly appreciated! Any recommendations for mounting the box? I'm assuming there's hardware included but do you prefer to use something else?

Ray,

I agree 100% about UF. Per my comment above, my entire interior run will be done with Romex. I'll allow the electrician to finish up from the disconnect panel to the tub. Honestly, I'm pretty sure I could handle it but it's piece of mind to allow a professional to wire it up considering the hazards associated with hot tubs.

I'm happy to pay.
 
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Old 08-17-15, 08:01 AM
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Hardware is usually not included. Use any type of exterior grade or stainless screws that are appropriate for the building finish/sheathing (deckers, tapcons, pole barn screws, etc).
 
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Old 08-17-15, 08:14 AM
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Noted. Thanks a bunch...................
 
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Old 08-17-15, 09:59 AM
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My comment regarding conduit was for ease of installation only, not a code issue. I had rather put it all together, suck one string and pull it all at one time, no jb's and no splices. Just a preference.
 
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Old 08-17-15, 10:12 AM
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Understood. I've never worked with #6/3 so at this point I just want to make sure there are no major red flags you guys see. I appreciate the comment.
 
  #15  
Old 08-20-15, 04:02 AM
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Well, good news is that the Romex has been run from basement to common wall that will share spa disconnect panel.

Bad news is that I have received the panel and it does not have rear knock-outs. Only bottom. Would connecting an LB directly to bottom of panel and feeding ROMEX through and into panel be a violation?

I think I know the answer. If so, what are your recommendations? I'm clearly down to:

A.) Terminate in JB and continue with THWN
B.) Look for another disconnect panel (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
 
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Old 08-20-15, 04:13 AM
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What spa disconnect did you buy? (just so I can avoid it ) I would drill my own hole. If you don't have the means to do that, then I would find another disconnect. 3/4"' KO is 1 1/8" FYI
 
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Old 08-20-15, 06:23 AM
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Thanks Tolyn,

I ordered what I thought was the only 60A panel from HD. They actually sell 3 - Eaton, GE, and Midwest. Mine is the Midwest.

I just ran to borrow a drill bit and am taking the panel to family business where I can use drill press. Problem solved.

Thanks!
 
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