Capping EMT conduit
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Capping EMT conduit
I need to cap an EMT conduit.
I have eliminated one circuit so I remove the EMT conduit run all the way from the panel to the ceiling box.
When I got to the ceiling box my intent was to remove the set screw connector, and close the 1/2" KO hole with a KO seal. Simple.
Only problem is I found out the locknut on the inside of the 4" square metal box was pit on cockeye and messed up the threads. I am not going to be able to back it out with a round mud ring mudded in and existing wiring inside. I will have to leave the connector in place.
I guess I can connect to it a short piece of EMT conduit? Then to the other end a set screw box connector...if I remove the locknut from the connector, will I be able to put a standard 1/2" threaded pvc cap for plumbing over it?
So the fundamental question is, will a standard 1/2" NPT PVC female cap thread nicely onto the male threads of a 1/2" EMT connector?
Or is there an easier way to cap it?
I have eliminated one circuit so I remove the EMT conduit run all the way from the panel to the ceiling box.
When I got to the ceiling box my intent was to remove the set screw connector, and close the 1/2" KO hole with a KO seal. Simple.
Only problem is I found out the locknut on the inside of the 4" square metal box was pit on cockeye and messed up the threads. I am not going to be able to back it out with a round mud ring mudded in and existing wiring inside. I will have to leave the connector in place.
I guess I can connect to it a short piece of EMT conduit? Then to the other end a set screw box connector...if I remove the locknut from the connector, will I be able to put a standard 1/2" threaded pvc cap for plumbing over it?
So the fundamental question is, will a standard 1/2" NPT PVC female cap thread nicely onto the male threads of a 1/2" EMT connector?
Or is there an easier way to cap it?
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Can't do that as I already ripped out the pipes from one end to the other and this is the last segment of it. Yes the box will stay in place.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
problem is access.
It is a 4" square box with a round 3.5" mud ring that cannot be removed (well not unless I chip out all the mud around it), and the connector is at a corner. I can get a plier through that mud ring and have enough of a grab to twist it off.
It is a 4" square box with a round 3.5" mud ring that cannot be removed (well not unless I chip out all the mud around it), and the connector is at a corner. I can get a plier through that mud ring and have enough of a grab to twist it off.
#6
I'm feeling a bit dumb. I have never heard of capping off a conduit and not sure why you would. If it is for fire safety why not cut the wires as short as possible and fill the conduit with fire stop caulk?
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Ray, there is no wire inside. It's just a connector that can't be removed due to a "stuck" lock nut on the threads.
I guess I am thinking I need to somehow seal it the same reason you would seal a KO hole in a junction box.
They do make an end cap for it, but it's not available at big box stores.

So I was just thinking the way I can do this is to cut a real short piece of conduit, cap it with a set screw connector WITHOUT the lock nut, and put a 1/2" PVC threaded cap over it.
I guess I am thinking I need to somehow seal it the same reason you would seal a KO hole in a junction box.
They do make an end cap for it, but it's not available at big box stores.

So I was just thinking the way I can do this is to cut a real short piece of conduit, cap it with a set screw connector WITHOUT the lock nut, and put a 1/2" PVC threaded cap over it.
#9
Seems reasonable. If you're not pulling wires into it, is it really a conduit? I don't think there's any code implication. Hammering it flat seems fair too.