Searching for electrical issue

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  #1  
Old 09-01-15, 09:38 PM
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Searching for electrical issue

2 outlets in my kitchen have quit.
First thing I checked was breakers... no issues
The kitchen outlets are on one breaker and the rest are working
My electrical test meter shows power but nothing happens when i plug something in ..

Whats next?
 
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  #2  
Old 09-01-15, 10:09 PM
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My electrical test meter shows power
A real multimeter or a non contact tester? They should be GFCI protected. Have you reset all GFCIs?
I checked was breakers
How? Did you turn them all the way off then on? (Tripped breakers don't always look tripped.
 
  #3  
Old 09-02-15, 02:33 AM
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Check for voltage between hot and neutral and hot to ground. Report your results.
 
  #4  
Old 09-02-15, 10:16 PM
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non contact. I'll buy another multi Friday and test (tools were stolen a month ago and didnt get that replacement yet)
no outlets are GFCI.. I know they are supposed to be. It came this way
Turned breakers all the way off and on... (there are other outlets on the same breaker that are working)
 
  #5  
Old 09-03-15, 02:33 AM
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non contact. I'll buy another multi
Get a cheap analog not a digital. Just for the record a non contact tester is not a meter and does not test for voltage. It tests for electromagnetic fields which may or may not indicate voltage.

When you have a real meter run the tests suggested by PC and let us know the results.
 
  #6  
Old 09-03-15, 05:22 PM
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my results are 0 and 0

I do have a stud tester with a meter on it that shows a current...
 
  #7  
Old 09-03-15, 05:30 PM
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my results are 0 and 0

I do have a stud tester with a meter on it that shows a current...
 
  #8  
Old 09-03-15, 05:46 PM
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Get an $8-$15 analog multimeter. Don't get a digital.
 
  #9  
Old 09-03-15, 05:52 PM
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ok, and i assume do the test again?
Why analog vs digital?
 
  #10  
Old 09-04-15, 12:40 PM
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well.. went out and bought a analog... same results
 
  #11  
Old 09-04-15, 12:48 PM
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Open the working receptacle nearest the non working receptacle and check the connections. If it is not GFCI and the connections are inserted into the back (backstabs) move them to the screws.
 
  #12  
Old 09-04-15, 12:48 PM
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It sounds to me like you have an open hot -- usually caused by a loose, broken or corroded connection somewhere in this circuit. Generally the repair process is to open up each device and junction box on the circuit, remake connections, and move any backstabbed wire connections to the adjacent screw terminals on devices. Rarely a broken wire caused by something like having driven a nail in the wall or rodent damage can cause this, but check all the connections before looking for damage between junction boxes.

Digital meters often introduce a false reading called phantom voltage when working on common residential systems. Analog meters and high-end digital meters can cancel this effect out, but on basic digital meters it is often just confusing.
 
  #13  
Old 09-04-15, 01:08 PM
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thats what i thought.. and was afraid of... Unfortunately everything is hidden and behind nice tile.. and not sure where its routed from... connection around the nearest working outlets are fine..
fudge
 
  #14  
Old 09-04-15, 01:26 PM
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Also check the connection of the wire at the breaker and between the breaker and bus stab. A faulty breaker could be the cause too.
 
  #15  
Old 09-05-15, 03:56 PM
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Ill check the breaker but does it make sense the breaker would only control 2 outlets?
 
  #16  
Old 09-05-15, 04:44 PM
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does it make sense the breaker would only control 2 outlets?
Not if the working receptacles are on the same breaker. How do you know the two non working receptacles are on the same breaker?
 
  #17  
Old 09-05-15, 06:43 PM
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tested all breakers. all good.
Without smashing the walls in and testing junctions i cant do much else...
 
  #18  
Old 09-05-15, 07:19 PM
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Did you check the connections in the three good receptacles.
Without smashing the walls in and testing junctions i cant do much else.
Wrong. You can use your multimeter to see if one of the cables in the working receptacles goes to a non working receptacle.
 
  #19  
Old 09-05-15, 07:26 PM
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I checked the other outlets. Connections good.
How to I check if one of the working cables goes to a non working?
 
  #20  
Old 09-05-15, 08:29 PM
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OR if you could tell me the procedure common name I can google or youtube it..
 
  #21  
Old 09-05-15, 09:03 PM
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  • Turn off the breaker.
  • Open the working receptacle nearest the non working receptacle.
  • If it has two cables proceed. If only one cable post back.
  • Remove the receptacle.
  • Temporarily turn the breaker on and check which cable is hot using the multimeter set to AC volts.
  • Turn breaker off.
  • Disconnect the wires from the non working breaker.
  • Set the multimeter to the lowest ohm scale.
  • Using a wire to extend the reach of one probe check for continuity from the non live cable wires (including ground) in the working receptacle to each wire of the same color in the non working receptacle.
At least one wire should show continuity. Ideally two wires and ground will show continuity.

Before you do that there is a simpler test you may want to preform. Using an extension cord with a ground as reference check for voltage between:
  • Wide slot of the reference and narrow slot of the receptacle.
  • Narrow slot of the reference and wide slot of the receptacle.
  • Narrow slot of the reference and ground of the receptacle.
You should get ~120 volts for each of these tests.
 
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