Restore Electricity to Shed

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  #1  
Old 09-12-15, 10:46 AM
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Question Restore Electricity to Shed

Hello there,

You've helped me in the past with connecting a sauna heater (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...na-heater.html) and now the sauna is up and running I'm ready to take on my next project: converting our shed to a man-cave. This shed has already decent circuits with a panel box and a proper outside cable runs from the main breaker to the shed but there's no power so the big question is. . .

How can we get electricity back to my shed?
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If you take a look at my picture you'll see the problem. The main power runs to box 2 where the power lines run into my home (arrow A) but there is no connection with the shed's powerlines (arrow B)! So my question is:

How do I connect these shed power lines to the power source?

Furthermore if you take a look at box 3, you'll see that is has a 50amp breaker (which is more than I need) but it is rusted and should be replaced. So my question is:

What type of box should I get to replace the rusted box?

Is this a good pick from the HD: GE Model # TL240RCUP
GE PowerMark Gold 40-Amp 2-Space 4-Circuit Outdoor Single-Phase Main Lug Circuit Breaker Panel-TL240RCUP - The Home Depot

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Hope you can help me!
 

Last edited by ray2047; 09-12-15 at 12:35 PM. Reason: Add pictures large enough to see.
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  #2  
Old 09-12-15, 12:44 PM
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Do you have power to the garage now? If so how is it getting there because it seems to be disconnected at the box below the meter/main.

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If no power you would replace the rusted box with a new 60 amp panel. You must verify the unfused supply meets the tap rules for distance and size.

While the above is cheapest, easiest, and what I would recommend you could do away the rusted panel all together by replacing the junction box with a 12 space combo main lug/ main breaker box. The power from meter/main would go to the main breaker. Power to the house from the main lugs. Power for the garage from a 50 amp breaker in the panel with feed to the garage moved to the new panel.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 09-12-15 at 01:11 PM.
  #3  
Old 09-15-15, 10:00 PM
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Thanks Ray for your reply.

No there is no electricity in the shed, that's what I mentioned in my post and that's why I raised my first question: how do I connect A with B?

And for the other question I would go with your cheapest option, so replace the rusted box with a 60amp box.
 
  #4  
Old 09-20-15, 10:15 AM
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Does anyone knows how to connect/splice the wires A and B? I haven't had experience with these big wires...

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  #5  
Old 09-20-15, 11:00 AM
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You need to change the black splice connectors that are in there from 2 hole to 3 hole. Google the name on the connector and you will find what you need.

Before you do that you might want to change the disconnect for the shed. It looks pretty bad. Just make sure your replacement has a breaker of fuse.
 
  #6  
Old 09-20-15, 11:33 AM
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...You need to change the black splice connectors that are in there from 2 hole to 3 hole...

Like this one?

If so, can it handle the smaller gauge for the shed's wires?

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Ilsco PBTD-3-250 Multi Tap Two Sided Connector; 250 KCMIL-6 AWG, 3 Ports, 600 Volt, Plastisol, Black - Crescent Electric Supply Company
...Before you do that you might want to change the disconnect for the shed. It looks pretty bad. Just make sure your replacement has a breaker of fuse...

Yes, that box will be replaced with a better disconnect
 
  #7  
Old 09-20-15, 11:53 AM
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Yes, that's the ones. The wire range is in the description. 250 KCmil - #6. If that fits your wire sizes you have, you will have to look. I suspect your main wires are 2/0-4/0 if you have a 200 amp service and your tap conductors are #8 or #6.

You might get by with some one sided ones, and they might be a little cheaper too.
 
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