how to strip heat tape wire?
#1
09-14-15, 01:31 PM
how to strip heat tape wire?
I have to either put a plug on this heat tape or wire it directly into a gfci.
Tape is Pryotenex 5USR1 120V self regulating 5W per ft 16 WM.
The previous electrician stripped and connected it directly into the box - does it need a special stripping tool? It has a solid black plastic type material that the wires are embedded in.
Can I put it on a plug instead of splicing inside the new weatherproof box?
1st picture shows the cut cable.
2nd picture shows the original cable where the black plastic was cut in half and wire stripped from end to make connection.
Tape is Pryotenex 5USR1 120V self regulating 5W per ft 16 WM.
The previous electrician stripped and connected it directly into the box - does it need a special stripping tool? It has a solid black plastic type material that the wires are embedded in.
Can I put it on a plug instead of splicing inside the new weatherproof box?
1st picture shows the cut cable.
2nd picture shows the original cable where the black plastic was cut in half and wire stripped from end to make connection.
#2
09-14-15, 03:14 PM
Group Moderator
Cut the conductors out using a sharp utility knife. If needed slide some shrink tubing over any exposed conductor except where you will make your splice.
Last edited by Tolyn Ironhand; 09-14-15 at 04:15 PM.
#3
09-14-15, 03:33 PM
Can I put a plug on the end of it or is the fact that it will heat up a bad idea?
If so, is it better inside the junction box?
Lastly, can the heat tape be hanging in mid air before the receptacle or should it only be attached to the well metal? ie do I have to get a separate piece of non heat tape wire (W rated) to splice to the heat tape and then attach to a plug?
If so, is it better inside the junction box?
Lastly, can the heat tape be hanging in mid air before the receptacle or should it only be attached to the well metal? ie do I have to get a separate piece of non heat tape wire (W rated) to splice to the heat tape and then attach to a plug?
#4
09-14-15, 04:01 PM
The black plastic is conductive and live through and through or has hair thin live wires embedded in it that will be exposed if you slit the cable down the middle. The white outer cover provides electrical insulation.
If you slit the cable lengthwise down the middle, the slit portion will not heat up but must still be covered with electrical tape or shrink tubing.
If you slit the cable lengthwise down the middle, the slit portion will not heat up but must still be covered with electrical tape or shrink tubing.
#5
09-14-15, 04:27 PM
Group Moderator
The heat tape is designed to be hard wired. I would just run it into a WP box with a cord grip/ strain relief and splice it there. If you want to can add a switch for a disconnect.
#6
09-14-15, 04:30 PM
See post #15 in your related thread http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...etal-well.html for how to secure the cable in the box.
Use a double gang box instead of the single gang. Install a duplex switch in addition to the GFCI receptacle. Run one heat tape to each switch. Power the switch from the load side of the GFCI.
The receptacle runs 2 heat tapes.
Last edited by ray2047; 09-14-15 at 04:51 PM.
#7
09-14-15, 05:12 PM
Is there any need for the switch when I can just turn it off at the breaker during summer?
Why does the black plastic not get hot if split?
So, I have to add scotch tape around any exposed black plastic areas? Do I split it until it exits the WP box so no heat is generated inside?
Thinking of attaching the heat tape to the load of the GFCI.
The current box has PVC piping on entrance and is a weatherproof box with in use cover mounted on a wood 2x4.
Why does the black plastic not get hot if split?
So, I have to add scotch tape around any exposed black plastic areas? Do I split it until it exits the WP box so no heat is generated inside?
Thinking of attaching the heat tape to the load of the GFCI.
The current box has PVC piping on entrance and is a weatherproof box with in use cover mounted on a wood 2x4.
#8
09-14-15, 05:28 PM
Is there any need for the switch when I can just turn it off at the breaker during summer?
Thinking of attaching the heat tape to the load of the GFCI.
So, I have to add scotch tape around any exposed black plastic areas?
Last edited by ray2047; 09-15-15 at 04:56 AM.
#9
09-14-15, 06:07 PM
Is it possible to add a plug to the heat tape instead and plug it in the front of the GFCI?
They don't seem to sell double gang WP boxes in any of the hardware stores here only normal doublegang boxes, which I can't use for this...
They don't seem to sell double gang WP boxes in any of the hardware stores here only normal doublegang boxes, which I can't use for this...
#10
09-14-15, 06:18 PM
Group Moderator
I do not think that cable is designed to have a cord cap installed on it. That is why I suggested hard wiring it. Just use a deep single gang box and skip the switch. The cable is self regulating so it shouldn't waste too much electricity. 
#11
09-14-15, 06:52 PM
If you can't find a deep WP single gang use two single gang. One for connections and one for the GFCI. Bring power into your GFCI box then out to your junction box.
#12
09-15-15, 04:48 AM
"Why does the black plastic not get hot if split?"
Cirrent migrates through the black plastic or flows through the fine wires (if any) embedded in the plastic, from one main wire to the other, to produce heat. Where the cable has been split, current cannot get across.
A metal box with metal cable clamps at the back will soak up (more correctly spread outover a larger area) the heat produced by the cable passing through and about an inch just outside and just inside, minimizing any fire hazard.
What do the cable instructions say about making connections i.e. "terminating" the cable?
Cirrent migrates through the black plastic or flows through the fine wires (if any) embedded in the plastic, from one main wire to the other, to produce heat. Where the cable has been split, current cannot get across.
A metal box with metal cable clamps at the back will soak up (more correctly spread outover a larger area) the heat produced by the cable passing through and about an inch just outside and just inside, minimizing any fire hazard.
What do the cable instructions say about making connections i.e. "terminating" the cable?
#13
09-15-15, 05:28 AM
No instructions on the cable as it was installed by an electrician maybe 10-20 years ago.
Thanks.
Couple of remaining questions:
1/ Is the small part of heat tape inside the GFCI likely to generate condensation, which in turn will be more likely to trip the GFCI?
2/ Is there anything on the market where I could make a splice connection with the heat tape and then use a flexible cable to the GFCI? Like this to make the connection outside the box?
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/heat...ing-kit/995954
You see these on gutter cables sometimes as a small plastic block like this:
Thanks.
Couple of remaining questions:
1/ Is the small part of heat tape inside the GFCI likely to generate condensation, which in turn will be more likely to trip the GFCI?
2/ Is there anything on the market where I could make a splice connection with the heat tape and then use a flexible cable to the GFCI? Like this to make the connection outside the box?
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/heat...ing-kit/995954
You see these on gutter cables sometimes as a small plastic block like this:
Last edited by qwertyjjj; 09-15-15 at 05:50 AM.
#14
09-15-15, 10:49 AM
I am closing this thread. Anymore comments or questions please post in: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...etal-well.html
