Difference between new construction breaker panel and a retrofit
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Difference between new construction breaker panel and a retrofit
Hi all
I'm shopping for a new breaker panel. My home currently has a 150 stab lok federal pioneer I need to change out to a 200 amp. So far I've just been looking online and I see some panels advertised as retrofit panels. They all look the same to me so I'm wondering if that is just a gimmick or they are somehow made differently to make install easier?
Also I know most guys swear by Square D but I'm leaning towards a 200 amp 40/80 cutler hammer panel linked below. It seems like a decent deal and comes with about half the breakers I'll need. Also I had a cutler hammer at my last house so I'm used to working on it. Any reason to avoid that panel?
Thanks!
Eaton Cutler-Hammer | 200A 40/80 Circuit Indoor Arc Fault Panel Package With 15A Arc Fault Breaker and Dnpl Breakers | Home Depot Canada
I'm shopping for a new breaker panel. My home currently has a 150 stab lok federal pioneer I need to change out to a 200 amp. So far I've just been looking online and I see some panels advertised as retrofit panels. They all look the same to me so I'm wondering if that is just a gimmick or they are somehow made differently to make install easier?
Also I know most guys swear by Square D but I'm leaning towards a 200 amp 40/80 cutler hammer panel linked below. It seems like a decent deal and comes with about half the breakers I'll need. Also I had a cutler hammer at my last house so I'm used to working on it. Any reason to avoid that panel?
Thanks!
Eaton Cutler-Hammer | 200A 40/80 Circuit Indoor Arc Fault Panel Package With 15A Arc Fault Breaker and Dnpl Breakers | Home Depot Canada
#2
Member
True retrofit panels just include the guts and a cover. You can leave your current box in place and don't have to re-feed wires. It saves a lot of work if your old panel is flush in a wall cavity.
#3
One retrofit panel has terminals to splice any wires that are too short instead of wire nuts. One also has end panels that make it easy to connect the cables without needing to hold the entire panel.
#4
Eaton BR series and Square D Q0 series are both quality brands with good history of long performance. Not sure if it's the same in Canada, but one significant difference between the two is Square D has lifetime warranty and Eaton BR has 10 year warranty. Note that Cutler is now an Eaton brand that is sold under the CH series. It is similar quality and price to Square D, also with a lifetime warranty. BR is Eaton's more budget friendly series, but still quite good.
#5
Forum Topic Moderator
My home currently has a 150 stab lok federal pioneer I need to change out to a 200 amp...
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Hi all thanks for the replies.
I think I will go with the panel linked below.
The meter is already a 200 amp but the feed in the mast is 1/0 aluminum so that's gotta go. (I think the power drop is 1/0 as well but from what I've read the power company is fine with that for 200 amp because it's outside. They can figure that part out on the reconnect)
I measured the conduit and it's only 1.5 inch so if I'm reading everything right I either have to replace the mast with 2 inch to use 4/0 aluminum or just pay a little more and use 2/0 copper in the existing mast? My plan is to have them do the disconnect in the morning and come back in the afternoon and I should be ready for them to reconnect. With time being a factor I think it would be much faster to just use the 2/0 copper.
I think I will go with the panel linked below.
The meter is already a 200 amp but the feed in the mast is 1/0 aluminum so that's gotta go. (I think the power drop is 1/0 as well but from what I've read the power company is fine with that for 200 amp because it's outside. They can figure that part out on the reconnect)
I measured the conduit and it's only 1.5 inch so if I'm reading everything right I either have to replace the mast with 2 inch to use 4/0 aluminum or just pay a little more and use 2/0 copper in the existing mast? My plan is to have them do the disconnect in the morning and come back in the afternoon and I should be ready for them to reconnect. With time being a factor I think it would be much faster to just use the 2/0 copper.
#7
You are correct about the wire and conduit size. You may also need to upsize and modernize your grounding system as part of the service change, as the existing service probably does not have adequate grounding to meet code for 200A. The new service will need #4 copper to your primary grounding electrode (usually the water service entrance), and #6 copper to your secondary ground rod(s), and for any other bonding jumpers to metallic stuff like plumbing. If your mast goes through the roof and supports the service drop itself, the power company may want to see it replaced with 2" anyway for structural reasons. That is up to power company service installation standards. If the drop is lashed to an insulator lagged to the framing of the house and mast just contains the wire, 1.5" should be ok.
#8
Your power company may not reconnect without an inspection. Make sure to allow enough time for the inspector to see it and give you the sticker.
#9
Member
Thread Starter
The house is 3 story so the mast is just on the side with an insulator anchor.
PC Boss: Yes I looked into it already and you are correct I need the inspector to give it the thumbs up before I can energize the new panel. I'm going to wander into their office sometime next week and see about that. I'm hoping I can schedule hydro and the inspector right to get done in one day.
About the grounding: The ground rod has #6 and is in the ground a couple feet from the meter. As for primary the water line looks to have been replaced very recently with plastic/PEX. What are my options for another ground?
PC Boss: Yes I looked into it already and you are correct I need the inspector to give it the thumbs up before I can energize the new panel. I'm going to wander into their office sometime next week and see about that. I'm hoping I can schedule hydro and the inspector right to get done in one day.
About the grounding: The ground rod has #6 and is in the ground a couple feet from the meter. As for primary the water line looks to have been replaced very recently with plastic/PEX. What are my options for another ground?
#10
Member
Thread Starter
NM. Looked into it. Locally (BC Canada) they want two ground rods 10 ft apart, 8 ft long and a number 6 copper continuous run.