I had an old Jenn air d120 that was hard wired to a 40 amp breaker connected to oven was black white and bare, can I simply connect these to the connection on the back of the new range.?

 

Only if it is 240 however most ranges are 120/240 and require a neutral which you don't have.

 

So where woudl the 120v come from another circuit?

 

Here is what the oven manual says

Volltage:220/240V
Main Oven Broiler Wattage:3600
Minimum Circuit Rating:40 amps
Main Oven Bake Element Wattage:2650
Main Oven Convection Element Wattage:2500

 

The old wiring does not have a neutral . You need a new 4 wire circuit .

 

Was that a typo. Is it really 120/240? There's no 220/240.

 

That was not the correct wiring for your old Jenn Air, it was also a 120/240 volt range. The bare ground in the NM cable was never allowed to be a neutral like you were using it.

 

So I guess I am calling an electrician... Lol probably not what I want to try running a new circuit by myself especially since it's through conduit in a slab.

 

But your description sounds like cable. Is this non continuous conduit back to the breaker box?

 

It dissappears under my island. I am not sure how it is coming from the breaker box to the house house was built in 75, the oven was put in in the early 80s.. The wires are all wrapped together in black rubbery insulation the black and white are 6 or 8awg,saw some similar stuff at local big box store. Is that ran all the way from the box?

 

CJ, the OP might have SE cable, not NM.

 

I doubt it. Most all of the Island electric I've see is only ran through conduit from one of the Kitchen walls to under Island.

 

Could you let us know the make and model of the new appliance you want to connect? At one point you said range and at one point you said oven. If it's a range, the old wiring is probably not adequate. If it's an oven, the old wiring is more likely to be adequate.

Is the old wiring copper or aluminum?

 

It is full cook top oven in one... I use the term a interchangeably which I know is correct kind of like soda or pop... Lol but here is the make and model
Model#: JS750SFSS

GE JS750SFSS slide-in electric range

Just wondering if there is a way I can get this done without an electrician...

Can pictures be posted on this forum?

 

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html

That's a nice slide in range, convection oven which you will love, restaurant quality cooking. I install them often in kitchen remodels.
It needs a new cable ran. 8-3 with ground.

 

Will this be easy to run? Or should I call someone?

 

Agreed it should be a new run. The island makes it a little more complicated. Can you find where the conduit comes up? It's usually a junction box in one of the kitchen walls...usually where the range used to be before the island was added in the last kitchen remod. It might be in the back of a base cabinet. Hopefully not hidden in the wall.

 

Ill check again when I get back home. All I see is a box in the floor that was under the old range. The circuit for the oven and circuits for the outlets in the island are all ran from that box, I'll try to get a better view and see where the cables are coming from.. I cant imagine where it is though... since the island is sitting right on the slab. It is a center island if that makes any more sense of this issue.

 

This is a guess, but I've torn out many kitchens.

The cable probably comes up from island conduit inside the wall unfortunately. There will be a stub out inside the wall, maybe about 6" to 12" high. There will not be a junction box if this is original to the house. The conduit is only to protect and feed the cable to the island under the slab. You will have the same thing for any 120V ran to the island. Basically the cable is stapled to studs just like any other cable and then runs directly into conduit with no breaks.

As far as running new cable yourself, do you have an attic? If so, your first step is to see where cable drops down into kitchen. If no attic, this will be tough for DIY with no experience.

 

I will also note that you won't be able to use NM cable because the conduit goes underground. You will need to use UF if you go with a cable; or have an accessible junction box where you can transition to THWN wire for the under slab portion. Standard romex (NM) is not water resistant and all underground conduits get wet.

 

2 story house.. And there are 2walls between the kitchen and the outside wall where the breaker is.. So not sure how to hunt it down..

 

An electrician will be your best bet. It's not easy to run cable through a 2 story house.

The electricians are knowledgeable of the easiest route. There will have to be holes cut, while trying to keep them at a minimum. Usually, the patching of the holes and texturing will be your responsibility.

IMO the range you are installing is worth the extra effort.

 

Ok thanks all.. I will call and see where I get... Maybe I will luck out

 

There is pvc pipe sticking out from floor.. Going towards ( coming from) the kitchen sink area back wall of cabinetry ... So if I'm lucky there could be a box in one of my cabinets? Or possibly outside that I have never noticed... Lol?

 

Just a nit pick:Not really the same when your referring to connections. Many ovens are 240 only and your wiring would work. Most stoves/ranges are 120/240 and won't work with your wiring. Most ovens need 40 amps or less. Many stoves need 50-60 amps. So at least when asking for electrical help the answers can be very different.

 

Found a box behind a drawer by the sink has big white wire with black white and bare and another for the 120v circuit. Then the other 2 wires for the range and outlets runs under and back up out of floor by range. Is there a way to use the 240 and 120 that is there to rewire it? Is the neutral part of the 240 or is it actually 120

 

No.No. The 240 has no neutral. Your house is actually supplied with 240. 120 is derived from one leg of the 240 and the neutral.

Does the conduit start there? How hard would it be for you to run a new cable from the breaker panel to that box? If the answers are yes you may be able to use the existing cable to pull a new set of wires into the conduit. I say wires because they are easier to pull than cable.

Just for information here is how your house ends up with 120 volts.

 

Pictures of the cable might help us see what you are dealing with.

 

I thought about that PC, but in post #1 the OP clearly said he had a black, a white and a bare. To me that means NM cable, and not SE cable. I have never seen any type of SE cable with a white insulated conductor.

 

That does sound more like NM, than SE.

 

Box under range area
Box under cabinet by sink
wire under range area
wire from box under range
white wire im guessing from braker box?

 

Is your kitchen on a concrete slab or a wood floor?

Can you zoom in on the box in the corner of the cabinet?

 

Here's the box under cabinet by sink. Is that the one you wanted Boss?

 

Slab. I can zoom later at home if you need a closer picture

 

here is a zoomed picture from under the cabinet

 

See question in picture below.

 

only other question i have is the old one worked, it was just old and the burners didnt work right anymore and the thermostat went out, so why cant these just work??

and here is what is in the installation manual:
WARNING: The neutral or ground wire of the power cord must be connected to the neutral
terminal located in the center of the terminal block. Ground strap must connect the neutral teminal
to the ground plate. The power leads must be connected to the lower left and the lower right
terminals of the terminal block.
DO NOT remove the ground strap connection.
FOR POWER CORD INSTALLATION
A. Remove the 3 lower terminal screws from the terminal block.
B. Insert the 3 terminal screws through each power cord terminal
ring and into the lower terminals of the terminal block. Be certain
that the center wire (white/neutral) is connected to the center
lower position of the terminal block.
C. Tighten screws securely into the terminal block.
FOR CONDUIT INSTALLATION
A. Loosen the 3 lower terminal screws from the terminal block.
B. Strip wire to expose tip about 5/8” long. Insert the center
(white/neutral) wire tip through the bottom center terminal block
opening. On certain models, the wire will need to be inserted
through the ground strap opening and then into the bottom
center block opening. Insert the two side bare wire tips into
the lower left and the lower right terminal block openings.
C. Tighten screws until the wire is firmly secured (35 to 50 inch-lbs.).
Do not over-tighten the screws

 

Ray - those are the 2 wires that go to the area under the range the black one is the one that fed the old range, the white one feeds the outlets in the island

 

Ray, I see a 240 feed and a a 120 feed on the smaller cable.

 

They are not wires. They are cables but I understand what you meant. So on the right hand side is that a conduit going to an unfinished basement or is the house on a slab? If on a slab does it seem to go into the wall? If into the wall you might consider opening up maybe a 4"x 4" hole a few inches above the floor to see what you can see.