There is no standard but if you keep the bottom of the electrical receptacle box near or just above 42" you can access the plug without moving the dryer.
So, I know the basics of electrical. I've wired outlets, switches, and ran some wire before.
I am remodeling a large room and I discovered a past home owner remove one of two electric baseboard heaters. The single one left has not been quite enough for the past few years. I went and bought a new 30" 500 watt one to install. The wire was already run, just disconnected at the tstat and where the heater was. I took my time, even checking the instructions and installed the new heater. There are two on the same tstat.
Anyways, I flipped the breaker on, turned up the temp and both heaters clicked on. About half an hour later, I went to check it and the new heater was cold. The older on (on same tstat) is working.
I turned the temp down and back up but the new heater refuses to heater after that first mount of time.
Note: At the tstat, I put two wires behind each screw. It is an original thermostat which appears to have this ability. There are two "sides" for each load screw. (You cannot curl it around)
Another note: All of the heater wire in my house is aluminum (built in the 70s). There are many heaters and all of the old ones work fine.
So, what is the problem? I am clueless at this point...Read More
I have a "STAC" automatic voltage regulator (input/out 110 - 220V) for my HiFi system. It was not until recently that I found out that the polarity of the 110V output receptacle is reversed, i.e. long slot is now "hot" and short slot is "neutral". One of other 2 220V outlet receptacles also has reversed polarity. However, these 2 outlets do not worry me because I only use the 110V outlet. Does the reversed polarity affect my HiFi system? Can I correct this by just swapping the neutral and hot wire of the regulator's plug? Thanks for your advice.Read More