Confusing wiring
#1
12-15-15, 11:05 AM
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Confusing wiring
I have a panel of three 3-way switches and two of the switches need to be replaced. However instead of finding three lines of 14/3 wires in the electrical box, there are two such lines plus three lines of 14/2, all of which are intermingled, and I do not know which lines are powering which lights. Further, I am replacing pre-wired switches with screw terminal switches, so the fact that they are all capped together makes it impossible to figure out what came from where. I am trying to figure out how to replace the switches without having to rewire everything, and would love some suggestions if anyone can help figure this out. I will try to attach a picture of what I have figured out and apologize for the lack of circuitry conventions. The first two switches are what need replacing.
Edit: also of note, the line labeled common on switch 3 is red. I have always understood common as neutral, but was under the impression that red was generally a hot wire.
Edit: also of note, the line labeled common on switch 3 is red. I have always understood common as neutral, but was under the impression that red was generally a hot wire.
Last edited by PJmax; 12-15-15 at 04:16 PM. Reason: reoriented pic
#2
12-15-15, 11:15 AM
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Welcome to the forums.
When replacing the three way switches.... which wire comes from where is unimportant. The only important thing to remember is to ID the common wire on the three way switch. There will be two like colored screws and one dark/black terminal. The same wire needs to end up on the black/dark terminal. Change one switch at a time to keep the three wires together.
Is your diagram upside down ?
When replacing the three way switches.... which wire comes from where is unimportant. The only important thing to remember is to ID the common wire on the three way switch. There will be two like colored screws and one dark/black terminal. The same wire needs to end up on the black/dark terminal. Change one switch at a time to keep the three wires together.
Is your diagram upside down ?
#3
12-15-15, 11:33 AM
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Thanks. Yes, the image attached upside down for some reason. Also, to clarify, the two switches that are being replaced are not the two switches that control the same load. Each controls a different set of lights. I assumed that getting the traveler lines mixed up would result in either the switches switching places or just not working - and since they are all capped together I don't know which lights are on which line.
#4
12-15-15, 11:56 AM
I don't know which lights are on which line
Just disconnect one wire at a time and connect to the new switch, then go on to the next wire. (Only one wire at a time disconnected makes it hard to get confused.) Remember common must go to common and the common on the new switch may not be in the same position as on the old switch so you must go by screw color.
If back stabs were use on the old switch on the new switch use the screws. They are more reliable. If you have one wire on the screw and one in the corresponding back stab connect those to a pigtail and the pigtail to the screw of the new switch.
#5
12-15-15, 12:38 PM
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The old switches were dimmers and contained cheap aluminum wires soldered to a circuit board. My first attempt was to clip the wires off the circuit board and try to attach them to the screw terminals of the new switches - but that didn't go so well. That would have been easy to do one wire at a time. But behind all of that is where everything is capped together, so I have to uncap it to connect the wires.
So basically I understand the load wires need to attach to the black screw terminal. I also understand each switch needs a live wire from the power source as well as a neutral and ground. So I guess the question, really, is what to do with the neutral and ground. In the old switch, the switch's own neutral was capped with neutral from both the load and the source, and same with the ground. The new switch doesn't have its own wire, so how do I attach it to both? Or do I need to?
So basically I understand the load wires need to attach to the black screw terminal. I also understand each switch needs a live wire from the power source as well as a neutral and ground. So I guess the question, really, is what to do with the neutral and ground. In the old switch, the switch's own neutral was capped with neutral from both the load and the source, and same with the ground. The new switch doesn't have its own wire, so how do I attach it to both? Or do I need to?
#6
12-15-15, 12:54 PM
My first attempt was to clip the wires off the circuit board and try to attach them to the screw terminals of the new switches - but that didn't go so well.
In the old switch, the switch's own neutral was capped with neutral from both the load and the source, and same with the ground.
You may have switch loop. See diagram below.
Last edited by ray2047; 12-15-15 at 02:48 PM.
#7
12-15-15, 01:08 PM
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I'm not familiar with a "reclored" wire, is that a typo? Google had nothing.
Here is a better diagram of what I have going on minus grounds, which are all capped together. The source that says "red capped" also has the black capped. It seems like switch/light three are pretty much on their own system except for the load being capped with the others.
Here is a better diagram of what I have going on minus grounds, which are all capped together. The source that says "red capped" also has the black capped. It seems like switch/light three are pretty much on their own system except for the load being capped with the others.
