Installing new recessed light through attic
#1
Installing new recessed light through attic
I am planning to install 4 recessed light in our living room . The wiring can go through the attic and I know how electrical connection works. However, I do not know what is the code compliant way to make these connections (first time)--
I already have one light in living room and I can hook the new lights to that connection. The questions are --
1) Do I connect one end of all 4 lights together and connect to one end of the existing one (and same for the other end) ; or should I connect one light at a time
2) I understand I will need to make all connections inside a junction box . Is that right ? How do I calculate the size of the junction box ? Where should I install the junction box ?
3) For laying the cables, shall I use hooks to hook those to the joist ?
4) If I plan to install a new switch for the recessed lights (preferred) , can I install a new box adjacent to the existing switch box and pull connection from that box ? If yes, please advise if the newer boxes which can be installed on drywall (and not a stud) is OK ?
Note: The attic is not useable ... no pull down stairs , access through a scuttle BUT I will have masssave do insulation shortly ( 75% rebate so no sense putting my own labor
)
I already have one light in living room and I can hook the new lights to that connection. The questions are --
1) Do I connect one end of all 4 lights together and connect to one end of the existing one (and same for the other end) ; or should I connect one light at a time
2) I understand I will need to make all connections inside a junction box . Is that right ? How do I calculate the size of the junction box ? Where should I install the junction box ?
3) For laying the cables, shall I use hooks to hook those to the joist ?
4) If I plan to install a new switch for the recessed lights (preferred) , can I install a new box adjacent to the existing switch box and pull connection from that box ? If yes, please advise if the newer boxes which can be installed on drywall (and not a stud) is OK ?
Note: The attic is not useable ... no pull down stairs , access through a scuttle BUT I will have masssave do insulation shortly ( 75% rebate so no sense putting my own labor

#2
Why would you need a junction box?
The new lights will have one built in.
Yes remodel lights will be fine if you only have one layer of sheetrock.
Make sure you buy I/C air tight cans.
It's cheaper to buy them by the case.
Run the wires along side the joist or drill holes in the middle of the joist.
The wires need wiring staples where there attached to the joist and within 8" of the fixtures.
https://www.google.com/search?q=dais...7baNNpCNFTM%3A
The new lights will have one built in.
Yes remodel lights will be fine if you only have one layer of sheetrock.
Make sure you buy I/C air tight cans.
It's cheaper to buy them by the case.
Run the wires along side the joist or drill holes in the middle of the joist.
The wires need wiring staples where there attached to the joist and within 8" of the fixtures.
https://www.google.com/search?q=dais...7baNNpCNFTM%3A
#3
Use the junction boxes on the fixtures and loop between them,you can use an plastic old work adjacent to the existing box,however it may be difficult for you to access that box to get a feed.
https://www.google.com/search?q=plas...00494985228740
https://www.google.com/search?q=plas...00494985228740
#4
Since you are wanting a new switch.... you'll wire from light to light. The last light will have a single cable in it. The first light will have two cables, one to the next light and the other one to reach your new switch location.
Turn the power off, pull the switch out, shoot a nice bright clear picture of the box... and post it here.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
Turn the power off, pull the switch out, shoot a nice bright clear picture of the box... and post it here.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
#5
When you're putting cans through to an unconditioned attic it's essential to use IC/AT and also a good idea to make sure you insulate well over them. Even IC/AT cans will still develop condensation inside the can if it is not well insulated. Some people build a rigid pink foam box and glue it together with caulk or great stuff, or you can get commerical-made can light covers and seal them down to the sheetrock with great stuff. A heavy layer of blown cellulose will also do the trick.
#7
Started the project this week. Explored attic, found the wires and comfortable with the wiring (and moving in attic) now. But I now have a design question --
Our living room is 14 ' X 16 ' with a fireplace. The fireplace is not exactly at center -- it is about 4 ' from one side and 6 ' from other side.
I am trying to find what size and how many lights should I consider ?
My plan is to use 3 eyeball trims -- two focusing the fireplace, one focusing an wall which will have a painting , three more with regular trim .
So two eyeball in front (focusing fireplace)
1 eyeball + 1 regular in middle
2 regular towards the entrance
Wondering if that would be enough light ?
Also, does it make a good design if the two eyeball in front (facing fireplace) are closer to each other and the two in middle and end are more spread out (sort of a U pattern rather than completely parallel)
The next question is what size -- 4" , 5". 6" ??
Design is becoming more complex than the actual work !
Our living room is 14 ' X 16 ' with a fireplace. The fireplace is not exactly at center -- it is about 4 ' from one side and 6 ' from other side.
I am trying to find what size and how many lights should I consider ?
My plan is to use 3 eyeball trims -- two focusing the fireplace, one focusing an wall which will have a painting , three more with regular trim .
So two eyeball in front (focusing fireplace)
1 eyeball + 1 regular in middle
2 regular towards the entrance
Wondering if that would be enough light ?
Also, does it make a good design if the two eyeball in front (facing fireplace) are closer to each other and the two in middle and end are more spread out (sort of a U pattern rather than completely parallel)
The next question is what size -- 4" , 5". 6" ??
Design is becoming more complex than the actual work !
#9
IMO more lights are better then not enough. You can always install a dimmer to reduce the light output, it is not easy to find a light increase-er. 
I also recommend 6" cans as there are lots of trims available, and the cans and trims tend to cost less.

I also recommend 6" cans as there are lots of trims available, and the cans and trims tend to cost less.