Hi everyone. I am looking for help with wiring for an unheated mudroom. I had an unheated 4x9 feet (small) porch and we just built an exterior wall with a door and a window. I would like to add one 3-gang box for light switches, one power outlet with 2 sockets under the window, one external light, and an external doorbell. The framing is 2x4, the floor is concrete slab, no access from basement. Please see attached 5 photos of the area and one for a proposed circuit. The circuit: I currently have a foyer light and a mudroom light. I want to add one exterior light. I currently have 3 one-way switches in the foyer. I would like to replace them with 3 two-way switches and add another 3 two-way switches in the mudroom, so all 3 lights could be controlled either from the foyer or from the mudroom. I currently have 14-3g running from foyer light to the foyer switches (4,5,6), and 14-2g from switches (4,5,6) to the mudroom light. I want to keep the existing 14-3g for the common and travelers 1 and 2, use existing 14-2g for travelers 3 and 4 and add other wires as shown on the last picture. I will run power 14-2g from the foyer light to the mudroom light, then to the new box on the new wall, and then to the outlet. So, for this circuit I need to run two 14-3g's, two 14-2g's, and one doorbell wires from the attic down to the new box. Please criticize the circuit if you see how to improve it. In the foyer light I have 2 4-wire nuts and 3 2-wire nuts. Looks like a lot. Do I need a junction box for this? The problem is how do it properly. Unfortunately, I cannot drill through the header because I was asked to write on the construction plan that I am not touching the header. The top plate of the framing is proud with respect to the header by 9/16'' (see last photo). I am thinking about running a conduit to the 3-gang box, putting all wires into it, driving wires into the 3-gang box, and then making connections for the outside light, power outlet (and doorbell?). It would be very nice if I could notch the top plate of the framing by 9/16'', and run wires through a rectangular steel tubing (1/2''x something like 1''), and attach that tubing to the vertical stud. I do not know if it up to code or not, and how to make proper connections between the tubing, switch box, light box, and doorbell and whether I can use a rectangular conduit. I could run two round 0.5'' conduits, but I don't know if I can fit 14-3+14-2 in one conduit and 14-3+14-2+doorbell into another. I also don't know how far apart the conduits should be (do I need to run them along different studs?) and how to make connections to the switch boxes. The power outlet seems easy, because I should be able to run the wire down from the box and drill through the centers of window cripples. Is it what I should do? The cleanest solution seems to be to run all wires through 0.5''x1'' rectangular steel tube, but I don't know how to connect things and whether it is up to code. I am in Falmouth, MA, if that matters. Thanks a lot. Pictures: [url]http://s21.postimg.org/rmpmiugs7/IMG_20151214_191407.jpg[/url] [url]http://s21.postimg.org/o5s5tm73r/IMG_20151214_191412.jpg[/url] [url]http://s21.postimg.org/owkvze9h3/IMG_20151214_191419.jpg[/url] [url]http://s21.postimg.org/9y2h4yuev/IMG_20151214_191425.jpg[/url] [url]http://s21.postimg.org/ma0s4psvr/IMG_20151214_191537.jpg[/url] [url]http://s19.postimg.org/ki9c6iyhv/circuit.jpg[/url]

[I]New poster here, so if I am breaking rules or etiquette please let me know![/I] I've looked at some other threads here with similar situations and I think I know the answer already but would like to be sure, esp. when I have to explain to the wife it may be a few days before the new stove is hooked up. So the question is do I need/should I replace the wire for the new stove? Info overload starts now: The old range was a jenn air S105 (I wish they still made them like this - great appliance). Worked fine, but we've had some mice sneak in this year and when I pulled it out I was startled at the amount of damage they had done to the wiring on top of the usual mouse related nastiness. So with the range out I removed the downdraft motor & sealed the floor off where the mice had been coming up and off to our local sears store we went. The new unit is a freestanding range to tide us over until the full remodel down the road. it is a Kenmore 94153 [url=http://www.sears.com/kenmore-5.4-cu-ft-self-cleaning-electric-range/p-02294153000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1]Sears.com[/url] New stove install pdf here [url]http://c.shld.net/assets/misc/spin_prod_740547112.pdf[/url] The current wire (3 wire, black, white & bare) goes directly from the service panel to the kitchen and was directly wire to the jenn air. [ATTACH]60599[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]60600[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]60601[/ATTACH] If I need new wire I could remove the existing and run it to that same service panel which is about 30ft away, but...could I also wire it to a subpanel that has an existing, but unused 240 40 amp circuit (it used to run a blower on a geothermal install that was removed before we bought the place)? Sorry no pic of the sub handy, but I can get one if it helps. Anything special I need to consider if doing that? The reason I ask is that there is a sub panel in the crawl space directly beneath the stove in the kitchen which would mean a lot less wire, and greater ease of install as the crawlspace is much taller in that area. Thanks in advance for any & all feedback.