Help with wiring 3-way switch... please and thank you.
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Grosse Ile, Michigan
Posts: 116
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Help with wiring 3-way switch... please and thank you.
Can someone please show me how to wire this/these 3-way switches?
I have a pair of non-dimming Lutron Claro CA-3PS-WH 3-way switches.
This is new construction: From my panel to the first switch I have 12-2, from the first to second switch I have 12-3, and from the second switch to the light I have 12-2.
I assume this is the wiring diagram I want to use, but I'm not sure where to connect the wires. My guess is that the red wire from the 12-3 connects to the red screw terminal on both switches, but I'm not exactly sure which black wire goes to which gold screw terminal. Perhaps it doesn't matter as if I switched the black wires it would just invert the on/off position of one or both of the switches?
Please see the attached image of my actual switch and thanks for your help in advance.
NOTE: I realize this is a 15A switch with 12ga wiring; the entire circuit is using 12ga wire, but on a 15A breaker. I will label this as such in the panel in case myself or someone in the future wants to upgrade the switches and/or breaker to 20A.
I have a pair of non-dimming Lutron Claro CA-3PS-WH 3-way switches.
This is new construction: From my panel to the first switch I have 12-2, from the first to second switch I have 12-3, and from the second switch to the light I have 12-2.
I assume this is the wiring diagram I want to use, but I'm not sure where to connect the wires. My guess is that the red wire from the 12-3 connects to the red screw terminal on both switches, but I'm not exactly sure which black wire goes to which gold screw terminal. Perhaps it doesn't matter as if I switched the black wires it would just invert the on/off position of one or both of the switches?
Please see the attached image of my actual switch and thanks for your help in advance.

NOTE: I realize this is a 15A switch with 12ga wiring; the entire circuit is using 12ga wire, but on a 15A breaker. I will label this as such in the panel in case myself or someone in the future wants to upgrade the switches and/or breaker to 20A.
#2
You can follow that diagram. The red screw on that switch means common. You connect your black hot wire to the red screw at one end and you connect the black to your lights at the other end.

#3
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Grosse Ile, Michigan
Posts: 116
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Like this?
EDIT: I changed the photo from a few minutes ago. I didn't notice the red and yellow dots on the diagram representing the red and gold screws.
EDIT: I changed the photo from a few minutes ago. I didn't notice the red and yellow dots on the diagram representing the red and gold screws.

#5
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Grosse Ile, Michigan
Posts: 116
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
So the red screw is the common, like PJmax said?
What would happen if I inverted the red & black travelers at one or both ends?
Also, I have four of these 3-way switch setups in a 4-gang box. Should all the neutrals be tied together or should each of the four neutral wires just be wire nutted and pass through? Everything is fed from the same circuit.

This is the second box. Wires coming in the top are the 12-3 from the first switch and the wires exiting the bottom are the 12-2 going to their respective lights.
What would happen if I inverted the red & black travelers at one or both ends?
Also, I have four of these 3-way switch setups in a 4-gang box. Should all the neutrals be tied together or should each of the four neutral wires just be wire nutted and pass through? Everything is fed from the same circuit.

This is the second box. Wires coming in the top are the 12-3 from the first switch and the wires exiting the bottom are the 12-2 going to their respective lights.
#6
Nice wiring job. 
Yup.... PJmax is correct on the red screw.
All whites get connected together at the source/power end since they are all on same circuit.
Now... I have a question for you. Why did you #12 wiring ?

Yup.... PJmax is correct on the red screw.
All whites get connected together at the source/power end since they are all on same circuit.
Now... I have a question for you. Why did you #12 wiring ?
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Grosse Ile, Michigan
Posts: 116
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Haha about PJmax being correct!
So in that photo, you can see the four tan wire nuts connecting the individual neutrals together to pass them through the box. That's correct? All four, or eight, neutral wires shouldn't be tied together in this box?
In the first switch box (not pictured), they of course are all four tied together to the neutral from the feed wire from the panel.
The reason I used 12ga wiring? These switches will control flood lights in each direction on the exterior of my house (north, south, east, west). I originally planned on powering between one and three 250w halogen fixtures with each switch, but then last minute switched to 30w LED flood fixtures. The LED fixtures were fairly inexpensive and will have no issue running on a 15A circuit (9 fixtures x 30w = 270w total on a dedicated circuit). My concern is that I'm not sure I trust them to last, quality wise, so I would like the option to upgrade the circuit to 20A if I decide to go back old-school and use halogen fixtures instead.
So in that photo, you can see the four tan wire nuts connecting the individual neutrals together to pass them through the box. That's correct? All four, or eight, neutral wires shouldn't be tied together in this box?
In the first switch box (not pictured), they of course are all four tied together to the neutral from the feed wire from the panel.
The reason I used 12ga wiring? These switches will control flood lights in each direction on the exterior of my house (north, south, east, west). I originally planned on powering between one and three 250w halogen fixtures with each switch, but then last minute switched to 30w LED flood fixtures. The LED fixtures were fairly inexpensive and will have no issue running on a 15A circuit (9 fixtures x 30w = 270w total on a dedicated circuit). My concern is that I'm not sure I trust them to last, quality wise, so I would like the option to upgrade the circuit to 20A if I decide to go back old-school and use halogen fixtures instead.
#8
In the second box they do not need to be tied together.
Good thinking on the #12. Thanks... I was just curious.
Good thinking on the #12. Thanks... I was just curious.