Z wave install for dead end 3 way switch

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  #1  
Old 01-16-16, 07:54 AM
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Z wave install for dead end 3 way switch

Hello,

I am attempting to install Leviton Z wave switches (switch model DZS15 and remote model VP0SR-1LZ) to my existing 3 way light switch set up. I have neutral wires running everywhere else through my house but it appears where the remote would be installed it is set up as a dead end with the white wire of the 14/3 is being used as a hot traveler and not a neutral. from what I can tell, the remote switch requires line/load, ground, neutral and two travelers. Am I out of luck for this install?
 
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  #2  
Old 01-16-16, 08:26 AM
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Where do you see the need for two travlers? The Leviton system uses only one. The YL/RD terminal is what you use to link their switches together.

You currently have two 3-way switches so when you replace both then the white traveler becomes the neutral.
 
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Old 01-16-16, 08:52 AM
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The wiring diagram shows the first traveler connected to the same terminal as line/load. Is this unnecessary? The remote I am using has a built in LED, I see there is a diagram showing remote without LED that may work. Any idea if the remote I have can be configured in that manner?
 
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Old 01-16-16, 09:05 AM
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The diagram shows you need three wires between switches and that's what you have.
Which end do you want to put the main switch at..... the power end or the dead end ?

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  #5  
Old 01-16-16, 09:28 AM
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That diagram is for the non LED VP0SR-10Z. Can I use the same configuration with the 1LZ? Per the instructions the switch must be installed in a wall box that has a load connection
 
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Old 01-16-16, 09:34 AM
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This is what you need for the lighted/LED switch.

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  #7  
Old 01-16-16, 10:46 AM
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Just to confirm, the RD on the switch does not need to be connected to anything? Looks like that connect may already be wire nutted in box
 
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Old 01-16-16, 11:03 AM
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the RD on the switch does not need to be connected to anything?
The RD connects to the black of the cable from the light.
 
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Old 01-16-16, 12:11 PM
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I connected the common wire from my previous switch (as designated by the black screw, in my case a white wire) to the black screw terminals of the new switch and remote. The red wire was connected to the yl/rd on each switch and there was a black cable in the dead end box what I connected to the WH on each switch with no luck. What am I doing wrong?

I also tried moving the WH on the switch from the WH to the RD as I assume the connection to the light had to have been made in the previous set up. I made a connection from the neutral wire in the box to WH on the switch and no luck either
 
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Old 01-16-16, 12:51 PM
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I connected the common wire from my previous switch (as designated by the black screw, in my case a white wire)
Wrong. The white wire is used to carry the neutral to the dead end switch. At the dead end switch you connect white to white. At the dead end switch you connect black to black and red to yellow.
What am I doing wrong?
Confusing yourself by trying to use the wiring connections for a mechanical switch to wire an electronic switch.
 
  #11  
Old 01-16-16, 01:10 PM
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I don't know how many times you can incorrectly connect these dimmers before they are burned out. Sometimes they're dead on the first incorrect connection.
 
  #12  
Old 01-16-16, 01:24 PM
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Okay great. I think I have the dead end switch corrected. Any insight on the remaining switch? There was a black wire under the black screw and I attached that to the new switches black screw. Red traveler went to the YL/RD and the only remaining wire on the pre-existing switch got connected to the RD spot (black wire). I added a jumper from the neutrals in the box to attach a new white wire to the WH slot. No luck with that setup
 
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Old 01-16-16, 01:31 PM
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I have a new set of switches I can try but would want to make sure everything is correct before I potentially burn out another set
 
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Old 01-16-16, 02:29 PM
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At the switch with load and line:
  • White of power in 2-conductor cable connected
    to white of 2-conductor cable from light and white of the 3-conductor cable to dead end switch and white of the switch.
  • Black of power in cable pigtailed the switch black and black of the three conductor cable.
  • Black of cable to light to the red terminal of the switch at the load and line end.
  • Red of 3-conductor cable to yellow of the switch at the load and line end.

Using a multimeter (or neon test light or solenoid tester) but not a non contact tester with the cables disconnected verify which 2-conductor cable is power in.

The switch the above refers to is on the right:
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Slightly different representation:
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Last edited by ray2047; 01-16-16 at 03:10 PM.
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