Wiring Diagram for Ceiling Fan/Light

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  #1  
Old 02-02-16, 05:12 PM
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Wiring Diagram for Ceiling Fan/Light

Hey guys -

Looking to wire up a ceiling fan that currently is operated via pull chain. Anyone have a wiring diagram in which:

1. Power begins at the fan
2. Light is operated by (2) 3 way switches
3. Fan is operated by its own single switch

Any help would be appreciated!
 
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  #2  
Old 02-02-16, 05:23 PM
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Do you want the fan on three way also?
 

Last edited by ray2047; 02-02-16 at 09:51 PM.
  #3  
Old 02-02-16, 05:27 PM
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No, only the light would be a 3 way. The fan switch will only be in one location.

Fan is technically in between the switches, if that matters.
 
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Old 02-02-16, 06:00 PM
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Fan is technically in between the switches, if that matters
Do you mean physically located between the switch or that both 3-ways feed to the switch with no cable connecting them as in the picture? There are several ways to wire this with out knowing how it is wired and where you want the switch we can give only general answers.
 
  #5  
Old 02-02-16, 06:08 PM
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Not sure I'm clear on what you're asking. :-(

The fan is in the middle of the dining room, and the 3 way switches would be on opposite ends of the room. Since the power is coming in at the fan, I assumed that might change how it needs to be wired.
 
  #6  
Old 02-02-16, 06:16 PM
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Physical location is not important a not indicative of how it is wired. The diagram above is one of the most common ways pre 2011 NEC.

Open the two switch boxes. Does none have only a 3-conductor cable and the other a 2-conductor cable and a 3-conductor cable.
Power begins at the fan
How did you determine that? Do you have a black wire connected to a white wire at the fan. See diagram.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 02-02-16 at 09:46 PM.
  #7  
Old 02-02-16, 06:18 PM
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There is no wiring run, nor switches, right now. Only power right to the light. I'm going to have to put in some boxes.

(1) Fan switch and (1) 3-way light switch needs to be sent to the left, while (1) 3-way light switch needs to be sent to the right.

I'll need to run wire for all of this. Does that help?
 
  #8  
Old 02-02-16, 06:23 PM
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Here, this is the closest I've found, but it just isn't completely clear for me.

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Old 02-02-16, 06:28 PM
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I have been trying desperately to keep up with you and modify my stock diagrams but you keep replying before I can answer. I am going to delete my diagrams and will be back later.
 
  #10  
Old 02-02-16, 06:31 PM
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I'm sorry! :-(

Check out that last diagram I posted. That's what I'm trying to do, just need a little more clarity on the wiring.

Absolutely appreciate your help! :-)
 
  #11  
Old 02-02-16, 06:42 PM
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No problem. The light can be a standard switch loop. Under 2011 NEC that means it must include a neutral to the switch box even if not needed. You would use the red and black of a 3-conductor cable for the switch loop. The white is connected to neutral at fan and capped with a wire nut at the switch.
 
  #12  
Old 02-02-16, 06:45 PM
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You wouldn't happen to have a clearer diagram based off of the one below, would you? :-/ lol
 
  #13  
Old 02-02-16, 06:48 PM
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Will modify your diagram. Top one is not correct. I think I can modify the bottom one. I think your missing you are going to need to add a 3-conductor cable.
 
  #14  
Old 02-02-16, 07:07 PM
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Here is the diagram. Any questions just ask.

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  #15  
Old 02-02-16, 07:12 PM
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Great! Thank you. Let me digest this and I'll get back to you with any questions.

Appreciate you taking the time tonight to help me out!
 
  #16  
Old 02-02-16, 07:16 PM
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Actually, one question. You have 2 black wires going into the fan, one from each switch. Can you explain this?
 
  #17  
Old 02-02-16, 07:26 PM
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One is for the fan. One is for the light. Code says conductors for a load must be in the same raceway (sheath or conduit.) Therefore you must use both wires (red and black) in the new cable. Your new switch is independent of existing wiring. Using a new cable. You can't just use the existing wiring.

You may have a box fill problem with this many wires at the fan. You may need to replace the fan box with a new fan rated deep box.

Without totally redoing the existing wiring there is no really good way to do this.
 
  #18  
Old 02-02-16, 07:27 PM
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Isn't the light blue wire for the light, one of the black wires for the fan... and then you have a second black wire going into the fixture?
 
  #19  
Old 02-02-16, 07:35 PM
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Black wires carry constant power to the switches. Red of the new cable carries switched power to the light. The blue of the light is disconnected from the black of the power in and connected to the red of the new cable. (You don't show the existing fan connection in your diagram.)

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  #20  
Old 02-02-16, 07:51 PM
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Don't you have constant power coming in from the line to the light thought? You have it split right when it comes in where it goes to the fixture.
 
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Old 02-02-16, 08:01 PM
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No. The black wire of the new 3-conductor cable carries constant power to the new switch and the red of the new 3-conductor cable carries poer to the blue wire on the fan.

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  #22  
Old 02-02-16, 08:18 PM
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Follow the power coming into the fixture. You have it capped together, and then a black wire (which would have constant power) going right into the fan. Do you see where I'm talking about?


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  #23  
Old 02-02-16, 09:14 PM
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You drew that wire I didn't. It is actually a blue wire. The blue wire I told you to disconnect and connect to the red. Since you used the wrong color on your diagram I didn't recognize it.

You fan has a black, blue, and white wire. Look at my second diagram above to see how to connect.
 
  #24  
Old 02-02-16, 09:19 PM
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Unfortunately this was just a drawing I found.

Here's what I'll do. I'll check out the box this weekend and draw you exactly what I have. Maybe that will make things clearer.

Hope you have a great rest of your night!!!
 
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Old 02-02-16, 09:25 PM
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Old 02-02-16, 09:49 PM
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Please answer the questions in post #6 when you actually look.

Here's what I'll do. I'll check out the box this weekend and draw you exactly what I have. Maybe that will make things clearer.
The solution I gave you was correct for the diagram you gave me of course that diagram is not the way they are normally wired so was probably it is unlikely that is how yours is wired. Regardless though the principal will be the same. The new switch will be a new cable independant of the existing cable and the fans blue wire will be moved to the new switch circuit.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 02-03-16 at 10:09 AM.
  #27  
Old 02-04-16, 04:08 PM
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Hi Ray -

I took a look and documented myself exactly what exists right now. You'll notice that I'm basically starting from a clean slate as no wires currently exist except for power. The fan and light are both only operated by pull chain right now. The switches I show will all be new.

The previous diagrams I shared with you were just something i found online that was close to my situation. Please disregard now.

Hopefully this makes it much easier for you...

If you have any questions, please let me know.


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  #28  
Old 02-04-16, 05:01 PM
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To do what you want to do best would be to use 4-conductor cable but that can be hard to find. You could also use ENT and individual wires but that would be more difficult so I have used a mixture of 2-conductor cables and 3-conductor cables.

To meet 2011 NEC requirements for a neutral at each switch I have brought in power at the switch. Since you will be doing a lot of new cables that shouldn't be too hard.

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  #29  
Old 02-04-16, 05:19 PM
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Ray -

Thank you so much for all of your help. This is exactly what I was hoping to find. Appreciate your patience while I stumbled through this!
 
  #30  
Old 02-04-16, 05:23 PM
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If you are starting from scratch bring the power to the switch first.
 
  #31  
Old 02-04-16, 05:25 PM
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Yup, will absolutely get the power fed to the switch. Makes a whole lot more sense with the power starting there.
 
  #32  
Old 02-07-16, 08:38 AM
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Ray -

So a quick update. Got everything wired up and everything works!

I did notice however that the 3 way switches were acting in a reverse manner of how i expected. When both switches were in the same position, power was on ----- when one was different, it was off. This is the opposite of what I've always seen.

I found that by swapping the two wires on the right side of one of 3 way switches (not the traveler), the problem was fixed. Is this ok? Am I right to assume that power should be on when one of the switches is the opposite of the other?
 
  #33  
Old 02-07-16, 09:12 AM
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There is no off or on on a three way. Whether the light is on will change depending on which switch was used. Both can be up and on, both can be down and on or one up and one down and be on. It is constantly changing.
 
  #34  
Old 02-07-16, 09:32 AM
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That last diagram has a problem that the neutrals create a ring circuit/parallel feeds.
 
  #35  
Old 02-07-16, 09:40 AM
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If a xx-3 was used from the switches to the fan you could avoid that issue. You would have the two switched hots and the single neutral in one cable.
 
  #36  
Old 02-07-16, 10:12 AM
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That last diagram has a problem that the neutrals create a ring circuit/parallel feeds.
Was I wrong? I did that so both conductors would be in the same raceway even if only the light or the fan was on.
 
  #37  
Old 02-07-16, 01:32 PM
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??? Do i need to change something?
 
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Old 02-07-16, 01:45 PM
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Do i need to change something?
I don't see anything wrong with my diagram. See: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...m-i-wrong.html
 
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Old 02-07-16, 01:47 PM
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Whew! lol. Awesome.

So I'm down to just the ground wires. So I have the two electrical boxes, both metal, and both boxes use the original BX and new Romex wiring. What is the best way to get everything grounded?
 
  #40  
Old 02-08-16, 08:42 AM
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In that diagram your neutrals are in parallel as NEC calls them "electrically
joined at both ends"

If the fan and light have separate white neutral wires you would be fine but that is not shown. Otherwise one of the white wires needs disconnected.
 

Last edited by Astuff; 02-08-16 at 09:13 AM.
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