Socket on dimmer switch not working...
#1
04-11-01, 08:31 PM
One light off of a dimmer switch suddenly stopped working. Assuming it was a bad bulb, I replaced it with a good one, but it still doesn't work.
Where do I proceed from here? Is there something I can check to make sure it's not something simple before I replace anything?
OK, I'm clueless! :-)
Where do I proceed from here? Is there something I can check to make sure it's not something simple before I replace anything?
OK, I'm clueless! :-)
#4
04-12-01, 05:38 AM
If one light controlled by the same dimmer works then it is not the dimmer. Possible causes...
1. A bent/broken contact inside the socket.
2. Broken/loose wire connections at either the problem light unit, or the light unit just prior to the problem unit.
1. A bent/broken contact inside the socket.
2. Broken/loose wire connections at either the problem light unit, or the light unit just prior to the problem unit.
#6
04-12-01, 07:17 PM
If you take the bulb out of the socket and look directly into the socket (power off), compare it to a working one, wopuld should be able to see if a contact is broken or bent.
For the connections, you may have to remove the fixture in order to examine the wire connections, check for loose wires, or wires that came apart. Start with the faulty unit first, then to the working unit.
For the connections, you may have to remove the fixture in order to examine the wire connections, check for loose wires, or wires that came apart. Start with the faulty unit first, then to the working unit.
#7
04-12-01, 07:52 PM
Thanks I will take a look.
Just in case this might give you a clue...using a continuity checking device, I removed the bulb, and touch one of the leads to the metal threads inside the bulb socket, and the other lead to ground, and the device indicates that there is continuity.
Just in case this might give you a clue...using a continuity checking device, I removed the bulb, and touch one of the leads to the metal threads inside the bulb socket, and the other lead to ground, and the device indicates that there is continuity.
#8
04-13-01, 04:45 AM
I hope you did that continuity test with the power off, because if you hit a voltage read it could fry the meter if not set to ac voltage. Between neutral and ground there will be continuity (assuming that the neutral wire is not the disconnected/problem wire). Inside the socket asssuming it is wired correctly, the thread portion of the socket has a neutral connection (from white wire) and the center contact at the base of the socket should have the hot (black wire) connection which should also be the switched connection.
Set you dimmer to full on.
Check the faulty unit first...
If you set your meter to read ac voltage and check for voltage between the black and ground (ground being the bare wire), is there voltage ? If there is, then switch the dimmer off, now recheck the voltage between black and ground. It should be around 110v ac when the dimmer is full on, and 0v when the dimmer is full off. If this checks out then we know the hot black wire is ok, if it does not then we have a break in the hot (black wire feed) could even be at the light fixture before this unit preventing hot wire from continueing on to the next fixture.
Now again at the faulty fixture, check for ac voltage between black and white , try with the dimmer full on and full off, you should get 110v with the dimme full on, and 0v with the dimmer full off. If there is not and the first test with black and ground is ok, then you have lost a neutral (white wire) connection.
To do these tests the power must be on, but you can switch off power when pulling the fixture away from the ceiling to gain excess to the wires and then switch the power to actually do the tests.
If all these test are ok at the problem fixture then the problem must at the connection atteh fixture or te light socket itself.
Set you dimmer to full on.
Check the faulty unit first...
If you set your meter to read ac voltage and check for voltage between the black and ground (ground being the bare wire), is there voltage ? If there is, then switch the dimmer off, now recheck the voltage between black and ground. It should be around 110v ac when the dimmer is full on, and 0v when the dimmer is full off. If this checks out then we know the hot black wire is ok, if it does not then we have a break in the hot (black wire feed) could even be at the light fixture before this unit preventing hot wire from continueing on to the next fixture.
Now again at the faulty fixture, check for ac voltage between black and white , try with the dimmer full on and full off, you should get 110v with the dimme full on, and 0v with the dimmer full off. If there is not and the first test with black and ground is ok, then you have lost a neutral (white wire) connection.
To do these tests the power must be on, but you can switch off power when pulling the fixture away from the ceiling to gain excess to the wires and then switch the power to actually do the tests.
If all these test are ok at the problem fixture then the problem must at the connection atteh fixture or te light socket itself.
