Terminal Block replacement - GE Dryer


Old 03-19-16, 10:05 AM
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Terminal Block replacement - GE Dryer

I am trying to find the best way to replace a terminal block for a GE clothes dryer that has a broken red lead from a previous repair that was stupidly put into a wire nut with the hot lead from the main power plug cable which caused a spark and small fire inside. The cables were covered in lint; possibly stirred up when we tried to clean beyond the lint trap with an appliance brush. There was a thumping sound after we cleaned the front part of the dryer. I do not know if something was knocked out of place causing a leak that made the lint travel to the power cable?

I bought a used replacement terminal block for $10 , that has the 4 wires attached but cut; (14 awg red, green with 16 awg blue N, 12 awg black).

I'm trying to figure out the best approach to getting the existing wires to the new block (the old one is cracked).

1) get high temp insulated butt splices and join the wires at the break.
2) remove the spade terminals that have the existing crimped wires from the old block, and transfer to the new block if the spades are not compromised from the fire. Note: the red wire is already burned off the spade, so I need to splice that one.

Any suggestions or advice will be appreciated.Name:  image.jpg
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Old 03-19-16, 10:18 AM
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Either way should be OK. I'd probably transfer the old terminals that are in good shape and just use the butt splice and new terminal on the red wire. The fewer connections the less chance for trouble. Make sure the butt splice is UL listed and the right size for the gauge of the wires.

Lint tends to accumulate everywhere in dryers over time; that's why it's a good idea to clean them thoroughly inside and out now and again, but certainly look for any obvious duct or seal leaks while you're in there.

Dryers now use a four wire connection that doesn't tie ground to neutral; that is the code now. You are not required to upgrade it, and doing so would probably require replacing the cable between the dryer receptacle and the electrical panel with 3 conductor cable with ground. But it is a safety improvement if you want to tackle it at the same time.
Old 03-19-16, 08:42 PM
Join Date: Nov 2015
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Although not required, I'd recommend soldering the wire.
You can either solder the wire with soldering iron and insulate with heat shrink tubing (you will have to put tubing on the wire before soldering) or use solder splice.
This connection will have lowest resistance and secure.

Solder splice is probably the cheapest and easiest option unless you already have soldering iron and heat shrink tubing. Solder splice is basically a heat shrink tubing with solder in the middle. Solder will melt with heat used to shrink tubing and solder wires together. Use of heat gun is best, but if you don't have one, just use a lighter and careful not to over heat and melt the tubing.

DO NOT just twist wire and put electric tape. That usually leaves poor connection and can generate heat due to resistance, which will eventually damage insulation.
Crimp splice is ok if you have a good crimping tool. Bad crimping will cause poor connection and generate heat. A wire nut is better than poor crimping.
Old 03-19-16, 10:59 PM
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I do professional cable assembly on high voltage mail sorting machines at work, so I have access to a soldering iron, heat gun and pro crimp tools, as well as high temp heat shrink. Yes, everything has a heat rating that should e taken into consideration. The engineer there told me I should never use solder on a 220v connection where main power is concerned. All dryers state that copper terminals be used. I am concerned about using a different metal as most splices are zinc coated. Uh, like seriously, who would even think of electrical tape with something like this unless you want to roast marshmallows. I'm very hesitant to use a wire nut for this application. That was the root cause that sparked the last fire.
I did just switch my other dryer to a 4 prong. That is how I got the spare cord for this one.
Old 03-19-16, 11:40 PM
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The engineer there told me I should never use solder on a 220v connection where main power is concerned.
Huh.... this is inside a 240v appliance.... not home electrical wiring.

You can solder and shrink the splice with no problem. The ambient heat level inside the dryer is well below the shrink tube rating. When I have a critical splice.... I double the shrink tube even if it requires two sizes. I don't use butt crimps or wire nuts to reconnect wiring in appliances.
Old 03-21-16, 09:20 AM
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I am concerned about using a different metal as most splices are zinc coated.
If the coating were zinc the base metal would most likely be steel. The crimpable butt splices I have seen are mostly tin plated aluminum and some are copper.

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