Installation of GE Z-wave Dimmer

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Old 04-28-16, 01:07 PM
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Installation of GE Z-wave Dimmer

hey guys need help installing a dimmer. I have installed a ge fan switch with line, load, ground and neutral which is working fine and is located above my light switch and outlet control switch. I have some pictures included on how i have my dimmer installed and my outlet box. I have no power to it when i turn the breaker back on but both other switches work fine, what am i doing wrong? Thank you!!

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Im sure there is information i am not included that would be helpful, just let me know what else you need. Thanks again
 
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Old 04-28-16, 06:45 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

I'm a little lost. You installed a Z wave dimmer and it worked but the second one you installed doesn't work ?

Just FYI.... this Jasco dimmer is for lights only.... not fans.

It looks like you have black connected to the "line in" terminal, red in the "load out" terminal and white to the neutral splice. That should be correct. If you connect the red and black wires together.... does the light operate ? If yes..... the dimmer is bad.
 
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Old 04-28-16, 11:21 PM
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Sorry for the confusion, yes I have a working smart control switch specific for a fan from GE. I am trying to install a dimmer switch into a two gang box. One switch controls lights and other switch controls an outlet. I'm confused because in the instructions it says line and load are supposed to be black wires and traveler wire is the red wire. Used only for 3 way switch. Right now I have it installed the way my old light switch was, which is a red and black two wire hook up plus the ground and neautral. I have one cable coming in from the bottom and two coming in from the top. I think I need the black wire from the bottom cable but it's wrapped up. So I'm just confused. If you need any more pictures I can def take some more. Thank you.
 
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Old 04-28-16, 11:59 PM
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Forget the traveler wire. That's only for three way operation.

Your dimmer says LINE - that means 120v always hot power.
Your dimmer says LOAD - that means the wire going to the light.

You had two wires on your old switch. One is always hot and one is switched.
Find the always hot one..... the other is the switched one.
 
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Old 04-30-16, 12:38 PM
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thank you i had the wires reversed some how. just flipped them and works beautifully.
 
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Old 05-02-16, 12:03 AM
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Is the light in the fan fixture?

If so, they used the black wire to power the fan and the red wire to power the light.

So just pretend the red wire is black. The instructions expect a ceiling light, not a fan and light combination.
 
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Old 05-02-16, 12:14 AM
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In this case..... your description is incorrect. There were two wires on a single pole switch.
Not two hot switched wires to the fan location.

In this application.... the red wire was hot and the black was the switched line.
 
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Old 05-02-16, 12:25 AM
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Is the power coming in on a 3-wire cable?

If so, then either one wire is switched elsewhere or you have a multiwire circuit coming from a 240 v breaker in the breaker box. Different lights =or receptacles are on each circuit, but they have a common neutral.

Again, pretend the red wire is black.
 
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Old 05-02-16, 12:29 AM
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Think about it. He HAD a regular single pole switch with a red and black wire on it that was working 100% correctly. He replaced that completely working switch with a dimmer that required a neutral. That means the power must be on the correct dimmer terminal. The OP had the power and switched lines reversed.

How the supply circuit is wired is inconsequential.
 
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