Dryer issue from hell
#1
05-04-16, 07:23 AM
Join Date: May 2016
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Dryer issue from hell
So, my dryer went out on FRIDAY last week.
Since then, because I thought it was a thermostat, I have changed thermostat, but got no heat still.
Dryer comes on, but no heat.
Tested heater coil, its good
checked plug. It seemed to be a bit cooked along with the cord going into the dryer.
Replaced both the cord and the socket, but guess what,
STILL NO DAM HEAT.
So i check the breaker box, because something seemed fishy. I am getting 200 at the wall and as soon as I turn the dryer on, it goes to 0.
At the breaker im getting 200 - 201.
Could my breaker be bad?
HELP ME PLEASE> I NEED TO DRY MY CLOTHES!
Since then, because I thought it was a thermostat, I have changed thermostat, but got no heat still.
Dryer comes on, but no heat.
Tested heater coil, its good
checked plug. It seemed to be a bit cooked along with the cord going into the dryer.
Replaced both the cord and the socket, but guess what,
STILL NO DAM HEAT.
So i check the breaker box, because something seemed fishy. I am getting 200 at the wall and as soon as I turn the dryer on, it goes to 0.
At the breaker im getting 200 - 201.
Could my breaker be bad?
HELP ME PLEASE> I NEED TO DRY MY CLOTHES!
#2
05-04-16, 10:06 AM
Sounds like an electrical issue so I have moved it to the Electrical forum.
I notice you are using a digital multimeter. Do you have an analog multimeter? It will be more accurate. The digital may be reading induced voltage. What is your voltage reading from each leg of the breaker to the neutral bar?
I am getting 200 at the wall and as soon as I turn the dryer on, it goes to 0.
#3
05-04-16, 10:17 AM
Group Moderator
Interesting only measuring 200v in a 240v system.
If you are measuring 240v at the breaker with the dryer connected but not at the dryer... then you have an intermittent/loose/poor connection. Could be a loose screw at the breaker.
If you are measuring 240v at the breaker with the dryer connected but not at the dryer... then you have an intermittent/loose/poor connection. Could be a loose screw at the breaker.
#4
05-04-16, 12:29 PM
Read voltage at wall with dryer unplugged, should read 240. Plug dryer in and read voltage at dryer back also should read 240 between outside lugs. do not turn dryer on for this check. Post model # can help better.
#8
05-04-16, 03:13 PM
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thanks for all the replies gents.
I am being told my multimeter could be off. So i am going to attempt this again and calibrate it. The facts have not changed though. Dryer is not heating and everything on the dryer tests good. I have not checked the thermal fuse yet but I will swing for the fences and just buy one.
The unit comes on but just doesn't get hot.
Admiral
AED4475TQ1
I am being told my multimeter could be off. So i am going to attempt this again and calibrate it. The facts have not changed though. Dryer is not heating and everything on the dryer tests good. I have not checked the thermal fuse yet but I will swing for the fences and just buy one.
The unit comes on but just doesn't get hot.
Admiral
AED4475TQ1
#9
05-04-16, 03:36 PM
The unit comes on but just doesn't get hot.
I am being told my multimeter could be off. So i am going to attempt this again and calibrate it.
#10
05-04-16, 04:48 PM
You have a Admiral made by Whirlpool , reason I am saying this ie whirlpool parts are cheaper.even tho they are the same part. 1st make sure you are getting 240 volts to back of dryer. Most common problems with that dryer are the top thermostat or heater. A continuity check will tell if good or bad. most meters have a setting that beeps when leads are held together. beep is good. I am guessing that it runs but no heat. Will not heat without 240 volts. if both thermostats and heater are good let us know. here is a diagram of your dryer. Just look at parts and Sears list Whirlpool part # and there price.look at little # in description.
#11
05-05-16, 07:15 AM
Join Date: May 2016
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UPDATE:
This all has come to an awesome end. I stuck to my guns with my worthless harbor freight multimeter
This issue has been found out to be the breaker. I figured that was the case for a few reasons.
1. The dryer ground leg was cooked on the dryer cord and on the receptacle. So I replaced both.
2. after replacing, when I would try to do a voltage check with the dryer started, it would go from 200 to 0. Which meant an open circuit.
The only way to get the power back on was to flip the breaker.
.
So after going to lowes, grabbinga 15 dollar 30 amp breaker, i crossed my fingers and cut the power and prayed to god. BECAUSE I HAVE NEVER CHANGED A BREAKER BEFORE!
Changed it, turned the power back on, hit the start button on the dryer, HEATER COIL BEGAN TO GLOW RED!.
SUCCESS!
Thanks for your help in this issue gents. I can now dry clothes again.
This all has come to an awesome end. I stuck to my guns with my worthless harbor freight multimeter
This issue has been found out to be the breaker. I figured that was the case for a few reasons.
1. The dryer ground leg was cooked on the dryer cord and on the receptacle. So I replaced both.
2. after replacing, when I would try to do a voltage check with the dryer started, it would go from 200 to 0. Which meant an open circuit.
The only way to get the power back on was to flip the breaker.
.
So after going to lowes, grabbinga 15 dollar 30 amp breaker, i crossed my fingers and cut the power and prayed to god. BECAUSE I HAVE NEVER CHANGED A BREAKER BEFORE!
Changed it, turned the power back on, hit the start button on the dryer, HEATER COIL BEGAN TO GLOW RED!.
SUCCESS!
Thanks for your help in this issue gents. I can now dry clothes again.
#16
05-13-16, 01:59 PM
Join Date: May 2016
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right connection was browned out. Basically COOKED. The plug and the receptacle were also cooked on the negative leg.
#17
05-13-16, 06:50 PM
The plug and the receptacle were also cooked on the negative leg.
