Dryer issue from hell

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Old 05-04-16, 07:23 AM
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Dryer issue from hell

So, my dryer went out on FRIDAY last week.
Since then, because I thought it was a thermostat, I have changed thermostat, but got no heat still.
Dryer comes on, but no heat.
Tested heater coil, its good
checked plug. It seemed to be a bit cooked along with the cord going into the dryer.
Replaced both the cord and the socket, but guess what,
STILL NO DAM HEAT.
So i check the breaker box, because something seemed fishy. I am getting 200 at the wall and as soon as I turn the dryer on, it goes to 0.
At the breaker im getting 200 - 201.

Could my breaker be bad?

HELP ME PLEASE> I NEED TO DRY MY CLOTHES!

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Old 05-04-16, 10:06 AM
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Sounds like an electrical issue so I have moved it to the Electrical forum.

I am getting 200 at the wall and as soon as I turn the dryer on, it goes to 0.
I notice you are using a digital multimeter. Do you have an analog multimeter? It will be more accurate. The digital may be reading induced voltage. What is your voltage reading from each leg of the breaker to the neutral bar?
 
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Old 05-04-16, 10:17 AM
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Interesting only measuring 200v in a 240v system.

If you are measuring 240v at the breaker with the dryer connected but not at the dryer... then you have an intermittent/loose/poor connection. Could be a loose screw at the breaker.
 
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Old 05-04-16, 12:29 PM
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Read voltage at wall with dryer unplugged, should read 240. Plug dryer in and read voltage at dryer back also should read 240 between outside lugs. do not turn dryer on for this check. Post model # can help better.
 
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Old 05-04-16, 12:34 PM
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Can you also test between each leg of the breaker and ground? Any other electrical problems in the house?
 
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Old 05-04-16, 01:16 PM
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Could it be that freebee Harbor Freight tester?
 
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Old 05-04-16, 02:04 PM
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Well I did suggest an a analog multimeter. Even an $8 analog would be more trust worthy.
 
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Old 05-04-16, 03:13 PM
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thanks for all the replies gents.
I am being told my multimeter could be off. So i am going to attempt this again and calibrate it. The facts have not changed though. Dryer is not heating and everything on the dryer tests good. I have not checked the thermal fuse yet but I will swing for the fences and just buy one.

The unit comes on but just doesn't get hot.
Admiral
AED4475TQ1
 
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Old 05-04-16, 03:36 PM
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The unit comes on but just doesn't get hot.
Which usually means one of your 240v legs are dead. Lights, controls, even the motor are usually 120 volts. That only requires one 240 volt leg and a neutral. The other 240 volt leg is probably dead. That is why we asked you to check each side of the breaker to ground at the breaker box.
I am being told my multimeter could be off. So i am going to attempt this again and calibrate it.
Nothing to calibrate. The problem is inherent in its design. It is high impedance and won't bleed off induced voltages. They do make digitals with special circuits that can but those are in the $100+ range. An analog multimeter on the other hand is low impedance in nature so it gives a more reliable reading on an AC circuit. See: http://support.fluke.com/find-sales/...105317_A_w.pdf
 
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Old 05-04-16, 04:48 PM
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You have a Admiral made by Whirlpool , reason I am saying this ie whirlpool parts are cheaper.even tho they are the same part. 1st make sure you are getting 240 volts to back of dryer. Most common problems with that dryer are the top thermostat or heater. A continuity check will tell if good or bad. most meters have a setting that beeps when leads are held together. beep is good. I am guessing that it runs but no heat. Will not heat without 240 volts. if both thermostats and heater are good let us know. here is a diagram of your dryer. Just look at parts and Sears list Whirlpool part # and there price.look at little # in description.
 
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Old 05-05-16, 07:15 AM
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UPDATE:
This all has come to an awesome end. I stuck to my guns with my worthless harbor freight multimeter
This issue has been found out to be the breaker. I figured that was the case for a few reasons.
1. The dryer ground leg was cooked on the dryer cord and on the receptacle. So I replaced both.
2. after replacing, when I would try to do a voltage check with the dryer started, it would go from 200 to 0. Which meant an open circuit.
The only way to get the power back on was to flip the breaker.
.

So after going to lowes, grabbinga 15 dollar 30 amp breaker, i crossed my fingers and cut the power and prayed to god. BECAUSE I HAVE NEVER CHANGED A BREAKER BEFORE!

Changed it, turned the power back on, hit the start button on the dryer, HEATER COIL BEGAN TO GLOW RED!.


SUCCESS!

Thanks for your help in this issue gents. I can now dry clothes again. Name:  breaker.jpg
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Old 05-05-16, 07:50 AM
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Thanks for the update. ................
 
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Old 05-05-16, 08:46 AM
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Good job. .
 
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Old 05-06-16, 04:05 PM
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So after going to lowes, grabbinga 15 dollar 30 amp breaker,
That is a Square D QO series breaker, they are lifetime warranted. You could have gotten one for free.
 
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Old 05-06-16, 08:00 PM
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What did the bus connection look like? It looks like the right connection was loose.
 
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Old 05-13-16, 01:59 PM
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right connection was browned out. Basically COOKED. The plug and the receptacle were also cooked on the negative leg.
 
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Old 05-13-16, 06:50 PM
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The plug and the receptacle were also cooked on the negative leg.
Negative leg? There is no positive or negative in AC power. Assuming all those connection points were not loose, there may still be a problem within the dryer. Have you checked the amperage draw on each leg?
 
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