Service entrance panel

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  #1  
Old 05-20-16, 06:24 PM
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Service entrance panel

I have a few questions for the members before I start the install of a new service entrance panel.
I may not use the correct terminology but I will try to explain as best as I can.
I am installing a 200amp GE Main breaker panel.
the distance from my meter is only the length of a 1 1/2" ridged offset so it will align properly.
It will be to the left of the meter on an exterior wall on my covered deck.
I am using 2/0 THHN copper from the meter to the main breaker and neutral.
(3 conductors).
Question, can I use 90 degree bends in the 2/0 wire to route it efficiently and to be out of the way?
It is very stiff and loops would be in the way of other wires.
Question, can I route the 2/0 wire feeds thru the lower right side of the panel?
This is the quickest route to the meter saving the most wire and I have no other options of mounting the meter anywhere else economically.
Question, if I am allowed to route the feed thru the lower left side to the meter can I do so thru the use of a 1 1/2" ridgid offset?
( I need the use of the top outlet to feed the wires to a subpanel to be used also) and I really don't want to turn the interior over because of the use of a Generator interlock kit to be used in the top right 2 buss slots.
Please let me know before I mess something up.
B.
 
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Old 05-20-16, 06:33 PM
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The interlock only needs to be used adjacent to the main breaker.

The wires can run however is easiest in the gutter space.

Does your power company allow the conductors to be run out of the back of the socket?
 
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Old 05-20-16, 07:21 PM
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I'm having a problem visualizing the setup here.

It will be to the left of the meter on an exterior wall on my covered deck.
Sooo..... is the panel side by side to the meter or back to back to it ?
Is this an aerial/overhead service or underground ?
Is this a brand new service or a panel replacement ?

The back of the meter is not always accessible on the side you want.
 
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Old 05-20-16, 07:39 PM
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Its a new panel to be installed, there is no meter in this new panel.
There is an old meter to the right side of this new panel.
it is only the length of a 1 1/2" rigid offset away, maybe 4" total.
No feeds thru the back of either panel.
I want to run the feed form the bottom left side of the meter box into the bottom right side of the new panel thru the rigid offset.
Yes there are compatible knock outs at both locations.
side by side locations.
no aerial,
yes new install of the Main breaker panel not the meter panel
B
 
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Old 05-21-16, 12:31 PM
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I see no issues if the workspace around the panel is available .
 
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Old 05-21-16, 02:14 PM
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I just need to feed the conductors thru the side and not thru the top.
To get the 2/0 stiff wire to lay in the gutters out of the way, I pre bent them in 90 degree angles so it wouldn't be so stiff working with inside the box.
Also it appears that the 1.5" ridged offset will allow 3 conductors to pass thru using 2/0 copper.
I was just wondering if there were code against doing this.
Another question, do I have to use any "lube" on the lugs when using the copper wire, like you have to using aluminum?

B.
 
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Old 05-21-16, 02:44 PM
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Three 2/0's is the max in 1-1/2". Normally I'd use 2" fittings but you are ok.
Copper wire does not require No-ox on the connections.

Don't forget you'll need to use bushings on the inside of your offset.

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Old 05-21-16, 03:35 PM
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If you are installing the steel offset nipple directly between the panel and the meter socket, you will need to bond between the two cans if the nipple is using concentric/eccentric OK's. The only exception is of all the KO's are removed. The other option is to run PVC between the two cans.
 
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Old 05-21-16, 05:54 PM
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Ironhand,Looks like it will be the 3rd from center KOs on each panel so should use a bare ground between the panels?
PJmax, is that a picture of the threaded ends I should use on the offset?
I picked up some steel ones that you tighten with a screwdriver/hammer.
So I should get the PVC ones?
B.
 
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Old 05-21-16, 06:25 PM
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Could I use a bonding locknut ( screw type) on each panel with the lockset and still use the PVC bushing as a cap on the ends?
if I do not take all the KOs out do I still have to use a steel washer?
Ben
 
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Old 05-21-16, 07:10 PM
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You can use a bonding/grounding bushing in place of a PVC one. I have never heard of a bonding locknut.

Only knock out the KOs you need for the offset. You will only need reducing washers of you knock out too many.
 
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Old 05-21-16, 07:58 PM
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How about this on each panel and the PVC bushing on the ends?
 
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Old 05-21-16, 08:03 PM
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That would be fine. You would need to connect them to the ground bar.
 
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Old 05-24-16, 05:15 PM
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Ok , if I use 2 insulated grounding bushings to attach my ridged offset from the meter service to the new main breaker panel.
Do I add a short ground bar to the service panel to attach the ground wire?
Also in the meter service there is only the neutral/ground rod attachment in the panel, is that were I attach the wire to the bushing on the meter side?
B.
 
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Old 05-24-16, 06:36 PM
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Do I add a short ground bar to the service panel to attach the ground wire?
If the service panel has the first breaker in the system the the ground wire can go to the combined neutral/ground bar.
 
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Old 05-24-16, 07:09 PM
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If the service panel has the first breaker in the system
Ray , I know I am missing this somehow?
B.
 
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Old 05-24-16, 08:11 PM
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By code only at the panel with the first OCPD (Over Current Protection Device) the neutral and ground are connected together. Therefore the neutral bar can be used for grounds. If this is not the panel with the first OCPD then it is a subpanel and should under current code have four wires and a ground bar.
 
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Old 05-24-16, 08:42 PM
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Thank you Ray, yes it is the main panel, it is the 3 wire panel and my sub is a 4 wire.
So I can connect to the n/g bar.
thank you, I had not heard that tern used before.
B.
 
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Old 05-25-16, 07:45 PM
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Ok, I understand.
Let me see if I have this right.
My meter box will have to be bonded to my main panel thru the use of a insulated grounding bushing used on each side because of my used of a ridged offset that will connect them together.
The ground wire on the meter side bushing will be attached to the Neutral/ ground rod leg of the downstream side of the panel.
The Main breaker panel bushing ground wire will attach to the Neutral/ground buss of the main panel.
My Main breaker panel is a 200amp GE and does not have a bonding screw or lug bonding to the panel box, that I can see, did not come from the factory with one.
This main will be a 3 wire panel, 2 hots and a neutral and now the grounding/bonding to the meter ( actually the same place as each neutral goes to respectively ).
Now my 125 amp sub panel that will take its feed from a 100a breaker in the main, did have a grounding/ bonding screw factory installed.
I did do away with those and added a ground bar to the panel. to separate the grounds and neutrals
That panel will be a 4 wire.
2 hots , a neutral and a ground all going back to the main panel.
The subs ground and neutral will also be attached at the same neutral bar in the main.
If this is all correct. please let me know either way , right or wrong.
Thanks
B.
 
  #20  
Old 05-25-16, 09:14 PM
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Just to make sure that we aren't missing something can you post a pic of the current setup? Like to review clearances especially since it is a covered deck.

What is your old/current service? Do you have a 200 amp meter box and service entrance cables?

Have you reviewed your grounding? Ufer or grounding rods, water pipe, etc.

Lastly - have you reviewed your poco's rules and inspection requirements?
 
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Old 05-26-16, 07:21 PM
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Not installed a yet, still gathering parts.
We have covered the water pipes/ground rods, they are in place properly.
last detail I need is the boding/grounding of the meter panel to the main thru the use of a ridged offset.
When complete will load pictures of an install proudly well done or the smoke and ashes!
B.
 
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Old 05-26-16, 08:31 PM
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It would be rare for a panel not to come with a bond screw or strap.

Metal lock nuts are used on the conduit ends. The bushing is to protect the conductors from any sharp edges.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 05-26-16 at 08:41 PM. Reason: lockouts>lock nuts
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