Can this 220VAC motor be rewired for 110VAC operation?
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Can this 220VAC motor be rewired for 110VAC operation?
Hello, people.
I read the forum rules: I'm in California, but I'm sure that's irrelevant.
I want to repurpose this jacuzzi water pump,
Sta-Rite pump model P2R, from Delavan, Wisconsin.
A friend tells me that it is set up for 220VAC.
HOW can it be re-wired to work on 110VAC?
Thanks very much.
Mark53

I read the forum rules: I'm in California, but I'm sure that's irrelevant.
I want to repurpose this jacuzzi water pump,
Sta-Rite pump model P2R, from Delavan, Wisconsin.
A friend tells me that it is set up for 220VAC.
HOW can it be re-wired to work on 110VAC?
Thanks very much.
Mark53


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Well, Thanks for the Fast reply, Mr. Ray.
Nope... there's no available wiring diagram.
You've heard that Old joke, right?... "110 volts, 120 volts... whatever it takes".

Mark535
Nope... there's no available wiring diagram.
You've heard that Old joke, right?... "110 volts, 120 volts... whatever it takes".

Mark535
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You can see in the first two pictures that the Top of the
motor USED to have some sort of label that might have further
described the wiring. I dunno' what was on that label.
Regardless,... it's now gone.
motor USED to have some sort of label that might have further
described the wiring. I dunno' what was on that label.
Regardless,... it's now gone.
#6
The P2R is just a group number. There are 20 or so different models in that group. The extra digits denote single/multi-voltage.
That pump does not look like a dual voltage model. It should be clearly stated on the ID tag if it's dual voltage.
That pump does not look like a dual voltage model. It should be clearly stated on the ID tag if it's dual voltage.
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Thanks for the input, PJmax.
After P2R, I'm pretty sure that the next characters are A5E.
After some spaces, the next characters might be 24.
The characters in the "code number" box might be 1K80.

Does that help at all?
Thanks very much.
Mark535
After P2R, I'm pretty sure that the next characters are A5E.
After some spaces, the next characters might be 24.
The characters in the "code number" box might be 1K80.

Does that help at all?
Thanks very much.
Mark535
#9
OK..... the model number is P2RA5E-124L. That's a 1 HP dual voltage motor built by A.O. Smith
QC-1102 is the new replacement.
I couldn't find the direct AO Smith motor model for your Sta Rite pump. In the following link is the wiring guides for the Smith motors. Look at the diagrams and try to find yours based on wire colors.
schneider electric/resources/content/FAQS/en/AO SMITH MOTORS.pdf
QC-1102 is the new replacement.
I couldn't find the direct AO Smith motor model for your Sta Rite pump. In the following link is the wiring guides for the Smith motors. Look at the diagrams and try to find yours based on wire colors.
schneider electric/resources/content/FAQS/en/AO SMITH MOTORS.pdf
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BRILLIANT!, Mr. PJmax... 
Further examination indicates that there could be a "1" before the 24,
and maybe even an "L" after it. Thanks Very Much for the info.
I haven't yet determined which of those drawings closely resembles this motor.
Thanks.
Mark535

Further examination indicates that there could be a "1" before the 24,
and maybe even an "L" after it. Thanks Very Much for the info.
I haven't yet determined which of those drawings closely resembles this motor.
Thanks.
Mark535
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Darn.
I could find nothing in that PDF file that resembles this motor.
I contacted Sta-Rite: they said to contact PentAirPool.
I did that; haven't received a reply.
I contacted AOSmithMotors (CenturyElectric); haven't received a reply.
Can I trouble you for some further advice, PJmax?...

Continuing Thanks.
I could find nothing in that PDF file that resembles this motor.
I contacted Sta-Rite: they said to contact PentAirPool.
I did that; haven't received a reply.
I contacted AOSmithMotors (CenturyElectric); haven't received a reply.
Can I trouble you for some further advice, PJmax?...

Continuing Thanks.
#14
Because that motor has a starting capacitor marked "110 volts" I seriously doubt it was ever connected to 220/240 volts. Using 240 volts on a motor with a "110" volt capacitor would more than likely blow the capacitor. Having two red-colored wires means nothing as it also has a white wire for the equipment grounding conductor, an absolute no-no.
Here is what I would suggest if you REALLY want to find out. Physically remove the capacitor while leaving the wires connected. Remove the two red and the white wires that are leaving the motor through the threaded hole. Trace out the number of individual wires coming from the "guts" (coils) of the motor, if only four wires it is a single-voltage motor. Post back with more pictures and description.
Here is what I would suggest if you REALLY want to find out. Physically remove the capacitor while leaving the wires connected. Remove the two red and the white wires that are leaving the motor through the threaded hole. Trace out the number of individual wires coming from the "guts" (coils) of the motor, if only four wires it is a single-voltage motor. Post back with more pictures and description.
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Well, Thanks for the reply, Furd, but I think you are mistaken.
I Mickey-Mouse-connected it (For The First Time) to 230VAC: it ran well.


I then tried connecting the White to Ground, and (individually) each of
the Red wires to a Hot, just to see if it might run on 115VAC. It did nothing.
SO,... it IS currently wired for 230VAC: and it works.
A friend tells me that it simply uses the 115VAC capacitor
(on One of the 115VAC legs?) to "start" the motor turning,
and then Both of the 115VAC legs will keep it going.
AND... in order to view the individual wires coming from the "guts" of the motor,
I would need to remove the entire plate/section that holds... the PC board, and
the Brushes, and Bearing that holds this end of the shaft/armature/core/windings.
I think I could do that, but... would it really help?
I just wanna' make it run on 115VAC. Any other ideas?
I Mickey-Mouse-connected it (For The First Time) to 230VAC: it ran well.


I then tried connecting the White to Ground, and (individually) each of
the Red wires to a Hot, just to see if it might run on 115VAC. It did nothing.
SO,... it IS currently wired for 230VAC: and it works.
A friend tells me that it simply uses the 115VAC capacitor
(on One of the 115VAC legs?) to "start" the motor turning,
and then Both of the 115VAC legs will keep it going.
AND... in order to view the individual wires coming from the "guts" of the motor,
I would need to remove the entire plate/section that holds... the PC board, and
the Brushes, and Bearing that holds this end of the shaft/armature/core/windings.
I think I could do that, but... would it really help?
I just wanna' make it run on 115VAC. Any other ideas?
#16
Yes, I am mistaken, or maybe just plain wrong.
After drawing out several diagrams and then thinking about it I have come to the conclusion that it may very well be a dual-voltage motor but because it is a motor for a specific application it could have only three connection points. Have you looked at the wiring diagrams in the Schneider link that PJ provided?
If you were to remove the two hex head slotted screws in the terminal board and carefully turned it around and take a picture I might be able to tell you which wiring diagram to follow. I'm pretty sure it is just going to be the two leads with the push-on connectors that will need to be changed.

After drawing out several diagrams and then thinking about it I have come to the conclusion that it may very well be a dual-voltage motor but because it is a motor for a specific application it could have only three connection points. Have you looked at the wiring diagrams in the Schneider link that PJ provided?
If you were to remove the two hex head slotted screws in the terminal board and carefully turned it around and take a picture I might be able to tell you which wiring diagram to follow. I'm pretty sure it is just going to be the two leads with the push-on connectors that will need to be changed.