Wiring YL series motor with reverse switch
#1
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Wiring YL series motor with reverse switch
Hi all,
I joined the forum hoping somebody out there might have enough knowledge to help me wire up the motor and reverse switch on a small old King lathe I purchased. The switch and capacitors were not connected, so I pulled the motor apart and tried to get as many pictures of everything so that there would be enough information for someone to guide me in wiring it all together for 110 volts.
The wiring diagram shows wires with Z1 and Z2 on them but no wires were marked as such.










Thanks in advance
(Will post the rest of the pics in the next post)
I joined the forum hoping somebody out there might have enough knowledge to help me wire up the motor and reverse switch on a small old King lathe I purchased. The switch and capacitors were not connected, so I pulled the motor apart and tried to get as many pictures of everything so that there would be enough information for someone to guide me in wiring it all together for 110 volts.
The wiring diagram shows wires with Z1 and Z2 on them but no wires were marked as such.










Thanks in advance
(Will post the rest of the pics in the next post)
#3
Welcome to the forums.
Nice pictures.
Major problem..... this is a 240vac ONLY motor...... not a 120v/240v convertible type.
Nice pictures.
Major problem..... this is a 240vac ONLY motor...... not a 120v/240v convertible type.
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Hi PJmax,
Thanks for replying.
I was told by a motor rewind shop that it can be wired 220 or as the schematics on the motor says, 100 volts.
I'm not that knowledgeable, but are not the two different wiring schematics on the motor in Chinese, one for 220 and one for 100. If not, what do the Two different wiring patterns indicate.
Thanks for replying.
I was told by a motor rewind shop that it can be wired 220 or as the schematics on the motor says, 100 volts.
I'm not that knowledgeable, but are not the two different wiring schematics on the motor in Chinese, one for 220 and one for 100. If not, what do the Two different wiring patterns indicate.


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wiring YL series motor
Hi Carbide Tipped and Ray,
If all knowledgeable people here on the forum, agree that it can only be wired in 208, 230 or 240 (I'm in Canada), then are you able to tell me how to do that and I'll use it that way.
Thanks
If all knowledgeable people here on the forum, agree that it can only be wired in 208, 230 or 240 (I'm in Canada), then are you able to tell me how to do that and I'll use it that way.
Thanks
#8
That is a 220v motor only. The diagrams are forwards and reverse.
C1 and C2 are not voltages.... they are capacitor values.
I'm trying to work out diagram now. The lettering on the switch is a little confusing.
C1 and C2 are not voltages.... they are capacitor values.
I'm trying to work out diagram now. The lettering on the switch is a little confusing.
#9
You show a 120v power cord in your picture which of course can't be used with this motor.
V2 and W1 get connected together and don't connect to the switch.
Green w/yellow stripe is ground.
R - L1 from 240v power source
S - L2 from 240v power source
6 - W2 (start winding circuit)
V - U2 (run winding)
U - U1 (run winding)
5 - V1 (start winding circuit)
If forward/reverse is not correct.... reverse wires W2 and V1.
V2 and W1 get connected together and don't connect to the switch.
Green w/yellow stripe is ground.
R - L1 from 240v power source
S - L2 from 240v power source
6 - W2 (start winding circuit)
V - U2 (run winding)
U - U1 (run winding)
5 - V1 (start winding circuit)
If forward/reverse is not correct.... reverse wires W2 and V1.
#10
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Hi PJmax,
Hi, the cord in the picture is the one that it was wired with from the factory in China.
It is my understanding that places like China and Europe use 220 the way Canada and the US use 120, even on small appliances.
Not being an electrician, I don't really grasp that concept very well.
I realize the switch might be difficult, so could you give me a hook up without the switch as well so that I can test the motor to make sure it is good, and possibly a hookup up to use two 120 plug ins at the the same time instead of the heavy 240 plug in.
Thanks again for your help, greatly appreciated.
Hi, the cord in the picture is the one that it was wired with from the factory in China.
It is my understanding that places like China and Europe use 220 the way Canada and the US use 120, even on small appliances.
Not being an electrician, I don't really grasp that concept very well.
I realize the switch might be difficult, so could you give me a hook up without the switch as well so that I can test the motor to make sure it is good, and possibly a hookup up to use two 120 plug ins at the the same time instead of the heavy 240 plug in.
Thanks again for your help, greatly appreciated.
#11
Over there..... there are few codes to follow and more injuries. We have stricter standards here in the US and North America in general. Here on DIY we can only recommend code compliant and safe hookup methods.
This motor runs on 240v period.
Run a 240v circuit to it or don't bother hooking it up.
Two 120v cords is unsafe !!
One direction
U1 + V1 = L1
U2 + W2 = L2
Opposite direction
U1 + W2 = L1
U2 + V1 = L2
V2 + W1
This motor runs on 240v period.
Run a 240v circuit to it or don't bother hooking it up.
Two 120v cords is unsafe !!
One direction
U1 + V1 = L1
U2 + W2 = L2
Opposite direction
U1 + W2 = L1
U2 + V1 = L2
V2 + W1
#13
Did you remove the caps ?
If not.... they are shown in the diagram.
It looks like they are used as run caps in series. One looks optional by the dotted lines.
There is a centrifugal switch for starting.
If not.... they are shown in the diagram.
It looks like they are used as run caps in series. One looks optional by the dotted lines.
There is a centrifugal switch for starting.
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Hi PJmax,
The two capacitors are start and run capacitors, C1 the 100 microfarad capacitor being the start capacitor and the other smaller one is the run capacitor.
In an earlier post I mentioned that there were no wires denoted as Z1 and Z2. Is it possible that these refer to the field windings.
Thanks again for your help and I apologize for my lack of electrical knowledge, but I am learning as we go.
The two capacitors are start and run capacitors, C1 the 100 microfarad capacitor being the start capacitor and the other smaller one is the run capacitor.
In an earlier post I mentioned that there were no wires denoted as Z1 and Z2. Is it possible that these refer to the field windings.
Thanks again for your help and I apologize for my lack of electrical knowledge, but I am learning as we go.
#15
Look at the diagram plate on the motor. It matches the terminal block where the wire attach. Just transpose the letters.
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Hi PJmax,
My apologies to you and any followers of this thread.
I got involved with another project and had to set this one aside for awhile. Yesterday I finally got a chance to try your directions on wiring the motor without the switch and capacitors to see if it was any good before proceeding further.
Your instructions were correct and the motor is good, however, I'm afraid I'm at a loss as how to wire in the start and run capacitors without more detailed instructions.
The start capacitor has two red wires and the run capacitor has two black wires.
Hopefully you can provide me with the more detailed instructions.
Thanks in advance.
My apologies to you and any followers of this thread.
I got involved with another project and had to set this one aside for awhile. Yesterday I finally got a chance to try your directions on wiring the motor without the switch and capacitors to see if it was any good before proceeding further.
Your instructions were correct and the motor is good, however, I'm afraid I'm at a loss as how to wire in the start and run capacitors without more detailed instructions.
The start capacitor has two red wires and the run capacitor has two black wires.
Hopefully you can provide me with the more detailed instructions.
Thanks in advance.
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Hi JPmax,
My apologies again.
I'm dense enough that I need you to actually point out where I need to attach each wire;
Example-- attach one red wire to .....? and attach the other red wire to ....?, etc.
Sorry about that.
#19
The diagram is a little confusing. They run the two caps in series. It looks they are used for run only as there is a centrifugal start switch.
Connect one red from one cap and one black from the other cap together and wirenut off.
Connect the second red wire to V1 which is white.
Connect the second black wire to W1 which looks to be green.
You will have to monitor the temp of the motor while running. It may only need the larger cap to be used if it runs too hot.
If you had a current meter or amprobe you could monitor the running amperage of the motor which looks like 4A.
Connect one red from one cap and one black from the other cap together and wirenut off.
Connect the second red wire to V1 which is white.
Connect the second black wire to W1 which looks to be green.
You will have to monitor the temp of the motor while running. It may only need the larger cap to be used if it runs too hot.
If you had a current meter or amprobe you could monitor the running amperage of the motor which looks like 4A.
#22
Based on the motor diagram.... those caps are in parallel with the start switch.
That means the caps are shorted by the start switch. When the motor starts and the centrifugal switch opens.... those caps are in the circuit.
That means the caps are shorted by the start switch. When the motor starts and the centrifugal switch opens.... those caps are in the circuit.
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Hi PJmax,
Were you able to tell from the image I sent you as to weather or not I had it wired the way you requested. The motor spins sluggishly and when and when I checked the capacitors afterwards, neither one had received a charge.
Any idea as to where to go from here?
Thanks
Were you able to tell from the image I sent you as to weather or not I had it wired the way you requested. The motor spins sluggishly and when and when I checked the capacitors afterwards, neither one had received a charge.
Any idea as to where to go from here?
Thanks
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Hi again PJmax and anyone else with enough knowledge to be able to offer some suggestions.
I've done some research and tried wiring the capacitors into the system a different way with the same result I got with your instructions.
The motor turns sluggishly with no help from the capacitors.
The wiring diagram on the motor definitely indicates the start capacitor should be wired between v1 and v2 which makes sense as these represent the two black wires going to the centrifigul switch.
The other run capacitor is not so obvious.
I've also included a diagram that I think would represent my motor minus the centrifigul switch. Also


a subsquent drawing of the wiring of the fields wires and centrigul switch wires and the color coded wires and their labels that they are attached to from my motor.
It seems to me that somebody with a lot of knowledge of motors would find it very easy to hook up the power to the diagram of an induction motoer.
I'm wondering why that can't simply be transposed to my motor since the wiring diagram on it is so hard to follow.
Thanks
I've done some research and tried wiring the capacitors into the system a different way with the same result I got with your instructions.
The motor turns sluggishly with no help from the capacitors.
The wiring diagram on the motor definitely indicates the start capacitor should be wired between v1 and v2 which makes sense as these represent the two black wires going to the centrifigul switch.
The other run capacitor is not so obvious.
I've also included a diagram that I think would represent my motor minus the centrifigul switch. Also




It seems to me that somebody with a lot of knowledge of motors would find it very easy to hook up the power to the diagram of an induction motoer.
I'm wondering why that can't simply be transposed to my motor since the wiring diagram on it is so hard to follow.
Thanks
#25
Your best bet at this point would be to take it to an electric motor shop to get it correctly connected. They would also be able to tell you if there are problems with the motor that prevent it from running correctly even if connected correctly.
Which indicates the previous owner may have had problems and was trying to fix it but gave up and sold it.
The switch and capacitors were not connected
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Hi Ray2047
I did take it to a motor shop but didn't feel like paying the $100.00 he wanted to tell me how to wire it up and I appreciate the knowledge I'm able to pick up when I try to fix things on my own.
It appears the previous owner was trying to replace the forward reverse switch.
I guess if I don't get any new ideas online, my next step will be to help the motor get up to speed with the help of a friction drive against the end of the shaft and if that works then I will know it's just the failure to wire in the capacitors properly.
I did take it to a motor shop but didn't feel like paying the $100.00 he wanted to tell me how to wire it up and I appreciate the knowledge I'm able to pick up when I try to fix things on my own.
It appears the previous owner was trying to replace the forward reverse switch.
I guess if I don't get any new ideas online, my next step will be to help the motor get up to speed with the help of a friction drive against the end of the shaft and if that works then I will know it's just the failure to wire in the capacitors properly.
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Hi Ray2047,
I went and tried the motor again, hooked up the way I have it in the last drawing I posted. I brought it up to speed with an assist and the motor ran fine.
I let it run for 4 or 5 minutes and it seemed to be doing just fine.
I decided to check how many amps it was drawing.
I put the amp meter around line 2 and it showed slightly over 5 amps.
Just as I was going to check line 1 the run capacitor blew.
Any idea looking at the wiring diagram, as to what I did wrong, or what went wrong?
Thanks
I went and tried the motor again, hooked up the way I have it in the last drawing I posted. I brought it up to speed with an assist and the motor ran fine.
I let it run for 4 or 5 minutes and it seemed to be doing just fine.
I decided to check how many amps it was drawing.
I put the amp meter around line 2 and it showed slightly over 5 amps.
Just as I was going to check line 1 the run capacitor blew.
Any idea looking at the wiring diagram, as to what I did wrong, or what went wrong?
Thanks
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Hi again,
Nobody seems to have any answers to my last question so I've uploaded 3 more images, the first one does not have the capacitors wired in
The last image is what the wiring diagram on the motor looks like if connected as the wiring diagram shows. This is obviously wrong.
The second drawing shows a basic start, run capacitor induction motor and where the capacitors should go.
Hopefully someone can correctly fill in the wiring on the first one.
Thanks
#30
The diagram on the motor is either wrong or incomplete. Use this diagram.
C1 replaces the short between V2 and W1.
C1 replaces the short between V2 and W1.

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Hi PJMax,
Thanks for filling in the diagram for me. That was where I figured the capacitors should go but was hoping to get verification from someone such as yourself before I tried it, especially after blowing the start capacitor.
Thanks again and I will let you know how I make out.
Thanks for filling in the diagram for me. That was where I figured the capacitors should go but was hoping to get verification from someone such as yourself before I tried it, especially after blowing the start capacitor.
Thanks again and I will let you know how I make out.
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Hi PJMax,
Believe it or not, I'm finally winning.
I hooked everything up as shown in the attached wiring diagram and it starts and runs perfectly.
I checked both line 1 and 2 to see how many amps the motor was drawing and both lines read 2.56 amps. (Don't know if that's what it should be?)
This configuration runs the motor anti clockwise.
Now I have to wire in the forward reverse switch.
Would there be any changes to the original instructions you posted for that operation?
Once again, thanks for all your help.
#33
The rated current at 220v is 4A so the 2.56A at 240v is good.
Yes.... the original wiring is the same. The start circuit is the same in both diagrams.
Yes.... the original wiring is the same. The start circuit is the same in both diagrams.
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Hi PJMax and others,
It's finally time to close the thread and thank you all for your help.
The first three images are the final wiring arrangement that worked without the switch.
The last two images are the wiring arrangement that worked with the switch.
I had to switch w1 and w2 to get the proper rotation. Other than that your wiring instructions for the switch, PJMax were correct.
As you can see by the wiring arrangement, I did not join V2 and W1 as you suggested because in wiring the motor without the switch it was not the way I wired it and it worked well.
Thanks again.
Over and out.
#35
When you wire a reversing switch in.... there is no assumed forward or reverse wiring position match which is why it has to be tried to get forward and reverse correct.
Glad you're all set there.
Glad you're all set there.

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Yl8024

My motor is a little different. The purpose of my post is to thank all who have contributed to this thread, It has been very helpful.
Key points for me
These motors will only run on one specific voltage. cannot be changed
The diagram on the data plate is all about rotation direction. forward - reverse , ccw - cw or in my case wrong way or not wrong way
again thank you all
#37
Welcome to the forums.
I'm guessing you got your wiring figured out and don't need further help.
If you do need further help..... post back and I'll move this to its own thread.
I'm guessing you got your wiring figured out and don't need further help.
If you do need further help..... post back and I'll move this to its own thread.