DP3T toggle switch wiring

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Old 09-18-16, 01:15 PM
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DP3T toggle switch wiring

Hi

I'm trying to wire a toggle switch to perform a particular circuit configuration. I have a DPDT switch and a DP3T switch, both (on) on on, so I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction with which switch will work best.

I have two 12v .15mA LED lights a 12v .15a magnetic lock, and a 12v 2a power supply.

In the center On position the red light needs to illuminate and supply the lock with power. In the maintained on (up) position and the momentary on (down) position the red LED needs to turn off and the green LED needs to illuminate, no power to the lock.

I'm thinking the DP3T switch is best for this, but from my Googleing I'm led to believe I'd need to wire a jumper cable in there. I'm also led to believe that a DPDT switch can be wired to act as a SP3T switch, but I'm hoping to use both poles as the LED lights indicate whether the 12v magnetic lock is engaged or not (center on (red) would be on), and the lock would be wired into the same circuit. To have the lock turned off in the up and down positions the lock wouldn't be wired to the on maintained or on momentary poles.

Can anyone offer advice on which switch is best and suggest the best wiring configuration?

Thanks!
 
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Old 09-18-16, 01:35 PM
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Welcome to the forums.


DPDT and DP3T toggle switch
Basically the same switch. Still a double pole switch with six terminals.


I'm trying to figure out what you are doing.

The mag lock is powered with switch in middle. Red light is only on in the middle.
No power to lock in maintained or momentary position but green light is needed in both positions. Why ?
 
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Old 09-18-16, 01:48 PM
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Hey PJMax

Thanks for your help.

The green LED is simply a courtesy to the operator to show if the lock is powered or not, nothing more. They're going into a floor diagram mounted onto the back of some plexiglass to show which door is locked and which isn't.
 
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Old 09-18-16, 02:01 PM
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So just so I'm following you.

The action is.....
Up= green and no lock.
Center=red and locked
Down=momentary green and momentary unlock.

No problem.
Do you have the switches or do you need them ?
How many do you need ?
Metal bat handle toggle ?

I will spec them from a company like Mouser electronics.
 
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Old 09-18-16, 02:13 PM
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Thanks, PJMax!

I have the two switches - bought both so I could figure out the wiring scheme in the meantime. That's where I'm a little confused. Eventually, all together there's going to be 6 lock circuits, including this one. This is just an initial test before I commit to the whole project.

The switches are bat handle.
 
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Old 09-18-16, 06:36 PM
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The attached image shows the DP3T pole configuration (the model I have is the M2047). The image on the bottom right shows two common inputs and 6 outputs. Would I need to tie the two inputs together to share the power source? Which outputs are parallel to each other? 12 and 10 would be the same? 7 and 6? 4 and 1?
 
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Old 09-18-16, 06:50 PM
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Thanks for the link. Give me a half hour to work on it.

Your switches have 12 terminals on them..... correct ?
Is this 12v AC or DC ?
 
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Old 09-18-16, 07:22 PM
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Hi PJ

The DP3T switch has 12, the DPDT has 6. I'm guessing the triple throw will be ideal for my configuration? On the attachment I have the switch model M2047.

Ideally with the DP3T I'd run the LEDs from one pole and the lock from the other. I'm just beyond confused at how the poles are supposed to be wired.

Edit: I noticed you removed the jumpers. Any reason for this?
 

Last edited by dazniko; 09-18-16 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 09-18-16, 07:41 PM
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Also, the circuit is 12v DC for the LEDs and the magnet.
 
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Old 09-18-16, 07:52 PM
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The jumpers shown are for a specific use.... not yours.
Can you verify something for me.

Can you make sure..... with an ohmmeter.....
that 8 is not internally connected to 11 and 2 is not connected to 5 ?
 
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Old 09-18-16, 07:56 PM
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Thanks PJ.

Expecting delivery of the switches in the next day or two. Didn't mean to suggest I had them physically on me, but I know the model numbers from my invoice. I can test upon receipt and update.

You're awesome. Thank you for your help!
 
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Old 09-18-16, 08:06 PM
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No problem. I'm going to treat the switches as if the 2 pairs of terminals are not connected.
I deleted my previous diagram post. There will be a new one added on to the thread.
 
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Old 09-18-16, 08:42 PM
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Thanks, Pete. I'll update if the terminals are connected. Either way I'll post results!
 
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Old 09-18-16, 08:47 PM
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Ok..... this should do it for you. Pins 2, 7 and 11 are all the same connection.
All negatives get connected together.

- click on pic for larger view -


 

Last edited by PJmax; 09-18-16 at 09:18 PM.
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Old 09-18-16, 09:21 PM
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Super excited to test this.

So the black lines are jumper cables and I need to connect the + of the power source to poles 11 and 2?

Also, in the original diagram momentary was up and that was how I was judging the pole configuration. Is your diagram now the correct orientation?
 

Last edited by dazniko; 09-18-16 at 09:36 PM.
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Old 09-18-16, 10:07 PM
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Pins 2, 7 and 11 are all +12v. You can jumper them together in any way.

Yes... I flipped the switch over based on the original diagram.
 
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Old 09-22-16, 06:55 PM
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Hey PJ

Just wanted to update. Still waiting on my triple throw switch, but my DPDT (on) on on came in the mail today so I thought I'd try and see if I could get that going in the interim. Basically had to be wired to work as an SP3T switch.

Two hours later and I got it to work:

UP
----
A B
C D CENTER
E F
----
Down

Jump A to D
Jump E to B
Power goes to C
Green LED goes to E and Red (and magnet) goes to F.

Works a treat!

Still going to test your config when I get that switch, but success none the less

Thank you for your help.
 
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Old 09-22-16, 07:05 PM
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Success is good. ---------------------------
 
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Old 09-24-16, 05:17 PM
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Hey PJ. Your wiring diagram for the DP3T switch works a treat.

Curious for your advice. I'm concerned for voltage drop if I were to run a longer cable feed to power a door, say about 200ft away, for example purposes. How would you address this? Run the console (switch board) power at 24v and install a regulator on the line close to the magnet?
 
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Old 09-24-16, 06:32 PM
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I would just use a larger gauge wire to do the job.... unless it's already run.
A .15a magnetic lock is a pretty light load.

If you increase power supply voltage then you may need to add a resistor to the LED's if they are spec'ed at 12vdc.
 
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