No electrical power in receptacles

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Old 10-29-16, 09:16 PM
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No electrical power in receptacles

Hello Everyone I am having a Problem with the Electrical outlets in my home. It all started when I bought a New Microwave and it kept shortening out, but switch in fuse box never Switched off. Now I have 4 Outlets that have no power going into them 3 outlets are on a Recessed Wall another on wall to foundation. My husband checked all the Fuses in the Fuse Box and I went upstairs to the attic to check electrical wires there with the Klein wire checker and everything is fine. We had a friend come over that works on the power lines here in Florida. and he was also baffled. I don't have blue prints of house as far as wiring and neither does the County ( Just my Luck) I am uploading Photos to show you the lay out of walls . one side works one side doesn't, and the light switches all work on walls that don't have power to the outlets. All of the Fuses have Power in the fuse box. Any help you can give us will be greatly appreciated Thank you
 
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Old 10-29-16, 10:24 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

Do you really still have fuses in your house ?!?!?!?!

A non contact tester is used for testing for hazardous live power. Yes.... you have found live power. However... it tells you absolutely nothing about the other half of the circuit.... the neutral.

You're going to need a voltage tester or meter to work on this problem. Even a basic $10-$15 meter from Home Depot or Lowes will work.

You're going to need to determine everything on the problem circuit.
Is everything on that circuit dead ?
Is anything on the problem circuit working ?

You will likely be pulling out (but not unwiring) the devices to see if there are any loose connections. Using the push in terminals on the back of a device is a particularly common problem.
 
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Old 10-29-16, 11:18 PM
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Please stop using the non contact tester. It will only confuse you and us. A $8-$15 analog (not digital) multimeter is a much more accurate way to test. Have you read: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...ther-info.html
 
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Old 10-30-16, 04:01 AM
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...It all started when I bought a New Microwave and it kept shortening out...
What do you mean by shorting out? Did it spark at the outlet or just trip the breaker/blow fuse originally.

Also, since you referenced the use of a microwave this leads me to believe that the room is a kitchen. Did you check all the GFCIs. It is possible that the circuit that the microwave and non working receptacles are on may be on the load side of a GFCI receptacle. The microwave may have tripped the GFCI receptacle and not tripped the breaker. Look for all GFCI receptacles and be sure they are all reset.
 
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Old 10-30-16, 06:34 AM
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A lot of people, including news reporters and firefighters, use the terms "short circuit" and "short out" to describe completely different situations notably loose connection problems.

Loose connections are often the cause of groups of or individual lights or appliances "browning out" or "blacking out" or even fires (at the location of the loose connection, which heats up under load) without any fuses blowing or breakers tripping.

If the receptacle is continually sparking where something is plugged in, that is a loose connection, likely where the plug prongs make contact inside the receptacle. (That could still overheat or start a fire.) If you unplug something that is drawing a large amount of power, such as a hair dryer that is still switched on, you will always see a spark at the plug.
 
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Old 10-30-16, 06:38 AM
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Look for the last operating outlet on that circuit. Check wiring there and at next outlet in circuit for loose or back stabbed connections. Any back stabbed connections move to screws. Make sure all wires are connected in wire nuts.
 
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Old 10-30-16, 10:34 AM
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No Electrical Power in Outlets.

Hello AFJES It Never sparked the Microwave just went off, and strange thing is that a couple hours later it came back on. I have amps in Electrical Box No fuses sorry I am ignorant to the proper Term. The kitchen area wall is where it started, but I attached pictures and it is a Recessed wall. My husband said he checked all the GFI Outlets and Terminals in Box with His friend who Had a Better Electrical Checker ( The Guy that works on Power lines for County). The Microwave never sparked. Our Biggest Concern is an Electrical Fire. Thank You Everyone for all the Information I appreciate it very Much ! I'm gonna show this to my husband, He is Grumpy today ha! I downloaded photos I had to make them smaller. Thank You Everyone. and I am going to go get an analog Multi meter and Bring this one back. The guy at Home Depot sold this to us.
 
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Old 10-30-16, 02:29 PM
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It Never sparked the Microwave just went off, and strange thing is that a couple hours later it came back on.
Sounds like a loose connection to me. As suggested already make sure the connections in the back of the outlets are secure, meaning, no back stabs where the wire is just inserted into the back of the receptacle. Instead be sure the wire/conductor is under the screw securely. Also be sure that the receptacle is good. Sometimes over time the receptacle clamps which hold the prongs of the plug will loosen thus causing a loose connection. Even the weight of the plug may pull the plug out enough of the receptacle.

I have amps in Electrical Box No fuses
No problem with terminology. The correct terminology is "breaker" not "fuse".
 
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Old 10-31-16, 10:43 AM
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We had a friend come over that works on the power lines here in Florida. and he was also baffled.
It's good you have help, but working on power lines does not qualify anyone as an electrician.

I don't have blue prints of house as far as wiring and neither does the County
Blueprints don't show the routing of wiring anyway so that isn't a big deal.

Sounds like a loose connection to me
Absolutely, without a doubt.
 
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Old 10-31-16, 11:14 AM
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I appreciate the effort of pictures of where the receptacles are located but it really doesn't help much with diagnostics. When a house is wired it is some times logical only to the person who wired it. When you go totroubleshoot you assume a straight line with the receptacle closest to the panel being first but it is just a guess because you have to start somewhere. You need to start opening boxes beginning with the last working "outlet" on the breaker. Note "outlet" can be a switch or light or a receptacle. Redo all wire nuts. Move all back stabs to the screws. If two wires on one terminal pigtail to the screw. Check all screws for tightness.
 
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Old 11-05-16, 07:04 AM
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Good Morning,
Well we are going to have to call an Electrician to come in. I told my hubby don't stress it. . I'm going to look here on this site for a Professional in my area you Guys are Great! Thank you so much !!!!
 
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Old 11-05-16, 07:40 AM
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Let us know what the electrician finds.
 
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Old 11-07-16, 06:01 PM
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IF there no electrical power in receptacles my first thing would be loose connections and whether or not there is short somewhere in the circuit. And by chance its none of those i'd maybe think about replacing the receptacle all together.
 
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