Doerr LR22132 wiring diagram

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Old 11-07-16, 09:56 PM
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Doerr LR22132 wiring diagram

Bought an older 2 stage compressor and I'm trying to get it wired back up. Motor is a 5hp 230v 15a Doerr LR22132. Only terminals I can find are labeled 1, 2, 3, 4, and of course the ground screw. I have been unable to find a diagram to match these terminals, any idea which of the 4 terminals I would attach my 2 hot wires to? The label on the side of the motor seems to mention terminals 1 and 4, just wanted a 2nd opinion before I tried that.

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Old 11-07-16, 10:24 PM
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Looks like terminals 1 and 4 to this kid.

Note that this is a special compressor motor and nowhere near five honest horsepower, more like two and a half horsepower in the real world.
 
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Old 11-08-16, 08:22 AM
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If I use 1 and 4 would I need a jumper on any of the other terminals?
 
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Old 11-08-16, 08:53 AM
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These motors are like myths. I've seen more versions of this same exact model number than any other motor I've worked with. Most of these are dual voltage with multiple wires in the wiring box. I could never figure out why they didn't use a different variation of the model number for each version.

I would just try 1 and 4 with no jumpers.
 
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Old 11-09-16, 10:09 PM
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Thanks guys, worked great! Used terminals 1 and 4 with no jumpers as recommended. Just wanted to report back in case anyone else needed help with one of these motors.
 
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Old 11-09-16, 11:26 PM
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Thanks for letting us know it worked. As you wrote it might help others.
 
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Old 05-28-18, 12:31 PM
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Hi perhaps this should be in a new question, but I have a similar motor. Mine is branded as Dayton but it's a LR22132 on a compressor I've just recently acquired. I'm trying to replace the NEMA 6-50p plug (50 amp, grounded) on it with a NEMA 10-30p plug (30amp, ungrounded) but I'm having a little confusion around the diagram it shows and the blurb that mentions "Line to ungrounded side of supply when grounded supply is available". Did you perhaps have any issues with this? Where did you run the green wire? And are you using a grounded or ungrounded connection (are you using US wiring standards?)

Thank you




 
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Old 05-28-18, 12:57 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

You are replacing the plug or the cord ?
The cord is already connected to 1 and 4 and the green ground screen.

You don't have an ungrounded conductor. You have two hot legs and one ground as it's 240v.
The cord will have white, black and green in it.

NEMA 10-30p plug uses two hots and a ground.
 
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Old 05-28-18, 02:40 PM
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I'm replacing the plug on the compressor. The NEMA 10-30p plug has 2 hots and a neutral, while the NEMA 6-50p plug (that was on it when I acquired it) has 2 hots and a ground.

New plug:


Old (current) plug:


The grounding part is the main part I'm having a little trouble grasping. That little note on the motor says "if using grounded do this" so what do I do if I'm not using a grounded power source? I think the two live 120v prongs should be the same in both the 10-30p and 6-50p plugs.

Thank you
 
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Old 05-28-18, 03:31 PM
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In your case the center pin is ground.

The NEMA 6-50p is a 240v only plug.
The NEMA 10-30P is a 120v/240v plug.
 
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Old 03-12-19, 04:30 PM
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I hope you all donít mind me continuing an old thread about another variant of the Doerr LR22132 motor on an old air compressor. The air compressor is late 70ís early 80ís that I bought unused in original packaging at an estate sale 20 years ago. Since it was wired for 230v operation I installed a new 230v line for it at my old home. I only used this compressor a few hours myself before I moved. The problem is that I donít have empty slots in my electrical box to run another line at my new home.

I was thinking about converting the motor to 115v operation. All I need to do is change the location of T2 and T3 connections, then change out the plug. I did notice the amp rating of the motor is 22 amps for 115v service. Would this, in fact, be accurate since I only have 15 amp outlets making it still useless? Is there an adapter to convert the current plug to the typical wall outlet? I donít want to cut off the old plug only to find it wonít run without tripping breakers at lower 115 volts.

Any ideas and thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you.
 
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Old 03-12-19, 05:57 PM
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To change that motor to 120 volts you would move the T3 wire from terminal 3 to terminal 2. Your current will double to 22 amps so it will not run on any standard household receptacle. It would need a 120 volt, 30 amp dedicated circuit, and receptacle.

I would recommend installing a new sub panel and move a couple of existing circuit to the sub panel. That will give you more space to add additional circuits you need. You may also be able to make more spaces by installing tandem breakers.

Please start a new thread if you want to proceed on any of these options.
 
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Old 03-12-19, 07:18 PM
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The latest member has started a new thread so that this one will be closed and used for reference purposes. It will remain in our searchable archives. Please feel free to start a new thread and reference this one.
 
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