GE z wave dimmer (12724) and add on (12723) install help

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  #1  
Old 11-23-16, 06:29 PM
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GE z wave dimmer (12724) and add on (12723) install help

Hey all,

I've lurked around here awhile for advice, but I haven't been able to find my situation so hopefully someone can help.

I have two switches and one light. I attached some images to help.

I have been able to get the smart dimmer to work with a regular switch, but as soon a second I try to use the add-on, it fails. Also, the smart dimmer will only work if the regular switch is in the on position.

The only 120v wire that is hot when everything is unplugged is the red wire that's connected to the dimmer. I don't have access to my attic so I can't be sure, but I believe one of these 2 diagrams seems like it would be mine.

http://www.easy-do-it-yourself-home-...ZNlgWUF7pe.jpg

http://www.easy-do-it-yourself-home-...4M3S8JN4zX.jpg

If you need more info please ask. I'm absolutely stumped.

Thanks!

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Last edited by PJmax; 11-23-16 at 11:45 PM. Reason: reoriented pictures/added labels
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Old 11-23-16, 11:53 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

GE makes me laugh. Don't return product to store if it doesn't work. However, our wiring diagram is absolutely miserable to use.

Your wiring does not look correct. Picture 1....
Are pictures 1 and 2 both the main dimmer locations ?
Why two different switches ??

In picture 3.... is that the slave location ?
Do you have a meter ?
In picture 3 can you measure the voltage between the black wire of the two wire cable and ground ?
The black wire needs to be not connected to anything.
We need to find out which box is the feed end.
 
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Old 11-24-16, 06:53 AM
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Picture 1 is where I want to put the add on. Picture 2 is the primary. THe problem is the add on won't work, hence 2 switches.

Yes, picture 1 has given me fits. I'm thinking I don't have a neutral. I'm starting to think this is how I am wired.

https://www.homeimprovementweb.com/i...ch-option2.htm

My white (that's is paired with red) is hot in picture 1, but they didn't tape it.

Ya, picture 3 is where I was going to put the slave.

In picture 3 the red wire is hot, not the black. I do have a multimeter.
 
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Old 11-24-16, 10:19 AM
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The idea of these switches is you move around what you need. The slave only needs two wires to operate.

The light leaves box 3 on the two wire cable.
This will be your wiring at the slave.... location 3.

Connect both blacks together and wire nut off.
Connect both whites together and add a piece of white wire as a tail and connect to slave A.
You could put both whites wires on switch in A location.
Connect red to slave B.


At the primary end.
Locate the white wire from the three wire cable that goes to the slave switch. This wire is now being used as a neutral to the light. This white wire connects to B along with a jumper to the neutral splice in the box.

The black hot wire that is always live goes to the C terminal. This would have been the black wire that was originally on the common/dark colored screw on the three way switch.

The black wire from the three wire cable goes to E terminal.
The red from the three wire cable goes to F terminal.

Be sure work is done with power off.
 
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Old 11-24-16, 04:09 PM
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If you have any questions... ask.
 
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Old 11-24-16, 06:48 PM
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So you mentioned adding a wire nut to the white wires on 3 and adding a jumper for the slave. Whe white wire is the only live wire in the box. I was under the impression that the z wave slave only uses the traveler wire as power plus a ground and neutral.

Should I be using the jumper on the paired black wires instead then?
 
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Old 11-24-16, 06:58 PM
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White may be hot now but it will not be when you change the wiring at both ends.
The Z wave slave switches traveler to neutral.

I see the switch has a place for two wires to be connected so you don't have to create a tail for the whites. You can put both on the A terminal.


A little visual assistance...
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Last edited by PJmax; 11-24-16 at 07:23 PM.
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Old 11-24-16, 07:41 PM
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The problem is I am not wired that way.

Picture 3: the 2 wire romex comes directly from the light/power. The 3 wire romex goes directly to the second switch.

Picture 2 has only 4 wires all from one romex. Ground, white, black and red.

When I unplug all the wires only the white 2 wire romex has power. What I've been finding is that I have a "switched loop". Does that make more sense? Or am I the one being dense? It's very possible

I'm worried I'm going to have to run a 14/3 from the light to he switch in picture 3...
 

Last edited by Justcan23; 11-24-16 at 07:43 PM. Reason: Fixing typos
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Old 11-24-16, 07:55 PM
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Somehow I misunderstood you.... sorry.

Yes.... you appear to have a switch loop. That means you will need to replace the two wire cable with a three wire cable like you are worried about.

Picture 2 is only 4 wires from the three wire cable?
It looks like two switches with more wiring in the box.
 
  #10  
Old 11-25-16, 06:24 AM
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Picture 2 actually has 3 switches, one is a 4-way the other is a two-way.

When installing the 14-3 from the light to picture 3 how will I want to wire at the light?

Would I pair off the whites with a nut, the blacks with a nut, and use the red where the black previously was connected to the light?
 

Last edited by Justcan23; 11-25-16 at 06:41 AM. Reason: More detail
  #11  
Old 11-25-16, 12:41 PM
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That did the trick. Thanks for your help pjmax! Now trying a 4-way switch! I may be back
 
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