Loss of power from certain outlets and light fixtures

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Old 12-02-16, 02:47 PM
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Question Loss of power from certain outlets and light fixtures

My house got an electrical upgrade from a electric contractor about 3 years ago that is no longer available. Something happen that cause me to lose power of my kitchen light, porch light, one livingroom light. An outlet in the livingroom, and an outlet in the kitchen.

About a year ago I was able to get the power back to those places by fiddling with an outlet in the kitchen, that seem to be the cause of the power lost. Once I got the power back I never used or disturbed that outlet. I didn't have any problem for over a year.

Today I lost power in those spots again and some extra places as well. A light fixture in the kitchen that worked when the other kitchen light was out no longer works. The outlet on the south side of the kitchen went out too and the yellow light is lit. I tried to reset it by pressing the button, but nothing happens and the light stays on. Those things never when out before.

I checked the fuse switch to see if it was tripped and it was not. I even turned it off and on again to make sure.

Anyone have any idea what the problem could be???

Happy Holidays
 
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Old 12-02-16, 02:53 PM
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This is most likely a loose or broken wire connection at the original faulty receptacle. This can happen over time as the result of plugging and unplugging things or of a large electrical load like a space heater or vacuum cleaner causing a weak connection to burn through.

The appropriate fix is to turn off the breaker for this circuit, opening up the receptacle box, and inspecting for bad connections. They may not be completely obvious so it usually makes sense to remake the connections with new wirenuts. If any of the receptacles or switches use the quickwire back stab holes, the wires should be moved to the adjacent screw terminals as these provide a more secure connection. If any of the receptacles or switches appear to have damage or burn marks, they should be replaced.
 
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Old 12-02-16, 03:52 PM
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Up grade? As is to what?
No way if it "was upgraded" to meet modern codes would all those circuits be effected.
OK what's a "fuse switch" circuit breaker?
If it was "up graded" the kitchen outlets would have been on there own 20 amp. GFI circuit.
 
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Old 12-02-16, 04:21 PM
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Is that why the warning light is remaining on that one receptacle? I never bothered the receptacle I believe to cause the problem. I'll give it a good looking over. I'm afraid I don't know what the quickwire back stab holes are. I'm not seeing any burn marks on any of the receptacles in question. Thank you for reading my post.
 
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Old 12-02-16, 04:30 PM
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If you kill the power to that circuit and remove the cover and outlet from the box, no way should they have just stuck the wires into the back stabbed openings in the back of the outlet.
The wires need to be under the screws on the side of the outlet in a clockwise direction.
Back stabbed is a sure way to have issues with loose connections.
 
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Old 12-02-16, 04:33 PM
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Arrow

Up grade? As is to what?
No way if it "was upgraded" to meet modern codes would all those circuits be effected.
OK what's a "fuse switch" circuit breaker?
If it was "up graded" the kitchen outlets would have been on there own 20 amp. GFI circuit.

The electrical panel was replaced, and they installed some new receptacles some with the GFI circuit. One on them was the cause of the power lost from before. They also installed some light fixtures.

I couldn't think of the term ... yes ... a circuit breaker. There is a label for the west kitchen circuit breaker, and another breaker label for the south kitchen. I'm not sure if they are tied in with the pouch light, livingroom light, and living room outlet.

The smoke detectors this contractor installed through a city program to aid those with a low income malfunctioned, and a basement light. I tried to get help from the city program when this first happen a few years ago, but was unable to do so.

I'm hoping I can spot the problem and correct it again.

Happy Holidays!

 
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Old 12-02-16, 04:38 PM
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Backstabs are wires on non GFCI receptacles that are inserted into holes in the back instead of on the screws. Note some GFCI receptacles have screws inserted into the back but for them that is fine because a pressure plate holds those.

If a receptacle is a GFCI you need to press the reset button.
 
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Old 12-03-16, 09:14 AM
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Arrow Been there done that ...

If a receptacle is a GFCI you need to press the reset button.

I have pressed the reset button several times yet the light stays on. Why is that?

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

 
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Old 12-03-16, 10:50 AM
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Pull out the reseptical and as test using a multimeter measure the voltage on line and load sides.
 
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Old 12-03-16, 11:35 AM
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Different GFCIs have different "features". Some the light comes on when it trips, some the light goes off when it trips, while others the light stays on all them time no matter what state they are in.

First, press the "TEST" button. If you hear a pop, this is good, it has tripped. Next press the "RESET" button, it should now reset and power should be restored to the device.

If nothing happens you either have:
1) No power to the device or loose connections to the device
2) Device is wired incorrectly
3) Defective device.
 
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Old 12-03-16, 03:23 PM
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Arrow No Pop Sound

I don't hear anything when I press the test switch ... can it be that the receptacle is defective because of this? Can it cause a power lost to all the different areas that have no power?

I opened it up .. I see the screws on the sides, but I don't see the wires ... are they wired from the back? I can't get much movement to see the back, the wires must be very short. I definitely have no power going to that receptacle, or any of the other areas with no power.

I did do a check on the receptacle that cause the power failure before, and I see nothing wrong with the wires as far as I can tell.
 
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Old 12-03-16, 03:33 PM
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The wires should be long enough to pull it out. Wires will be under a metal plate that the screws tighten down.
 
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Old 12-03-16, 05:26 PM
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Arrow Yes ... I see them now

I had to pull a bit to get the wires to come out ... they are a bit stiff. I will go to home depot tomorrow and get another receptacle and see if power is restored when I replace it.

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!



 
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Old 12-04-16, 09:37 AM
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Arrow Question?

What is the chance of the circuit breaker for that section being bad? It would certainly explain the lost of power in the other areas. How would I go about testing it?

Update ... I rechecked with my multimeter ... the outlet that cause the power lost before is not getting any power ... the outlet that is the GFCI is getting power. So I will replace it, but can anyone tell me why I am not getting power to the outlet that caused the past power lost? Could it be the reason I am not getting power to the other areas?


HAPPY HOLIDAYS!
 

Last edited by spirittoo; 12-04-16 at 10:00 AM. Reason: Update
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Old 12-04-16, 10:04 AM
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Broken or loose wire at gfci or at next outlet. Could be loose in wire nut. Yes circuit breakers go bad but the whole circuit will go out.
 
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Old 12-04-16, 11:13 AM
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I'm not seeing any broken or loose wires at the outlets. Can I rule out the circuit breaker because of the power reading I'm getting for the GFCI receptacle?
 
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Old 12-04-16, 11:52 AM
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Can I rule out the circuit breaker because of the power reading I'm getting for the GFCI receptacle?
If your getting ~ 120v, yes.
 
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Old 12-05-16, 02:28 PM
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Question Big Arc

I replaced the GFC outlet and I still had no power ... I connected it the same way the old receptacle was wire. Used my multimeter, put neg. probe on the ground screw and the pos. on the screw I thought to have power and I got a big arc put a dent in my pos. probe and of course the circuit breaker tripped. Now what?
 
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Old 12-05-16, 02:57 PM
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Sounds like the multimeter wasn't set to voltage.
I connected it the same way the old receptacle was wire.
Some manufacturers put the line on the opposite end of other manufactures so that isn't the way. The way is to mark which cable was line on the old receptacle and put line on the line side of the new receptacle regardless of which end it is on.
Used my multimeter, put neg. probe on the ground screw and the pos. on the screw I thought to have power
No negative or positive on AC. To check you first measure black to white.
 
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Old 12-05-16, 03:28 PM
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If there is no neg to pos ... what cause that arc??? I will double check the hook up.
 
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Old 12-05-16, 04:24 PM
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Either you touched the black to white or the black to ground. Both black and white need to be connected to line side on proper screws. Black to white or black to ground will show 120 volts.
 
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Old 12-05-16, 06:27 PM
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Arrow Still a Mystery ...

Well sir ... I checked to make sure the connection was correct it was ... I touch the ground to the black that caused the spark. I'm obviously getting power. The new receptacle did the same thing the old one did. Light on ... no power to the outlet.
 
 

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