Does an 8 gauge wire require fire resistant conduit?
#1
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Does an 8 gauge wire require fire resistant conduit?
I need to wire a 240v to my heater in the garage. Do I need to put this 8 gauge electrical wire inside a fire resistant conduit? If there are rooms, between my drop ceiling and the joist, do I need to drill roles in the joist for this wiring?
#2
If you mean individual wires they must always be run in conduit. Any conduit used meets residential fire rating requirements. If allowed by local code you could just use cable and no conduit required except for sleeves where the cable might be exposed to damage. If you run cable it can be fastened to running boards or run through holes in the ceiling joists.
What is the amp rating of your heater?
What is the amp rating of your heater?
#4
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If you mean individual wires they must always be run in conduit. Any conduit used meets residential fire rating requirements. If allowed by local code you could just use cable and no conduit required except for sleeves where the cable might be exposed to damage. If you run cable it can be fastened to running boards or run through holes in the ceiling joists.
What is the amp rating of your heater?
What is the amp rating of your heater?
I assumed I need to run two wires, hot and neutral, correct?
And the heater I have is 240v with 2500w-5000w but it didn't mention about amps...unless I didn't see it.
#8
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#11
Most 240V heaters do not require a neutral wire, so the #8-2 NM cable you linked would be OK. That cable is good as long as the run is indoors and above ground. The cable needs to be fastened to framing and protected from damage, but this is easily accomplished with standard building materials. You can bore holes and run it through the joists or you can fasten it to a 2x4 running board nailed onto the joists. If it runs down the walls in the garage it should run along a 2x4 or through a piece of conduit for protection from crush/cut.
For distance estimation, take your tape measure and measure each leg of the planned route including up and down walls where necessary then add about 10 feet. You can very easily make it shorter, longer is a little tougher.
For distance estimation, take your tape measure and measure each leg of the planned route including up and down walls where necessary then add about 10 feet. You can very easily make it shorter, longer is a little tougher.
#12
As the OP stated:
That's about 21A (5000w / 240v) at the high setting. Code requires constant loads like heat on a circuit that's loaded to a max of 80%. So you could use a 30A circuit to run this heater.
You'll want to use a 30A double pole breaker with 10/2 (with ground) cable.
And the heater I have is 240v with 2500w-5000w
You'll want to use a 30A double pole breaker with 10/2 (with ground) cable.
#13
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If he uses a Romex NM-B cable 10/2 with ground does the white wire will need to be taped, marked with red electrical tape at both ends because it will be used as a hot wire instead of as a neutral, right?
#17
There is no need to spend extra money for the third conductor that is not needed. The white in a 2 conductor cable can be identified with tape or magic marker as a hot.
Last edited by Tolyn Ironhand; 12-27-16 at 07:06 PM. Reason: corrected auto corrected typo
#18
This cable has four wires. The black is hot, the white is neutral, the gold or gray is ground, what is the red wire?
#19
From your link:
It is used in most not some applications. It is white not gray.
From your link:
Over kill. Not normally needed for lighting or most general purpose receptacles.
Not true. Statements obviously brand him as a novice whose statements are not to be relied on.
14 gauge Romex is still used in some applications and is rated for 15 Amps and is grey jacketed.
From your link:
For our cabin, we used 12 gauge Romex for all of the outlets and lighting circuits.
This is very common now-a-days rather than running 14 gauge.