Light Switch to Outlet & Ceiling Fan Issue


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Old 12-29-16, 07:43 AM
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Light Switch to Outlet & Ceiling Fan Issue

I have Recently Purchased a New Home and found that our Light switch in our Master does nothing. I have plunged a light into all 6 Outlets Up and Lower Receptacles and nothing. I took off my Daughters Light Switch Cover and seen the Switch had the Red and Black Wires Flopped from top to Bottom not sure if that means anything or not . Also i took her Outlet cover off and seen her Tab is broken on the Hot Side. Ours is not so i dont know if that is my issue or not. But every other room the light switch control the ceiling light the only difference is that our room has a Ceiling fan with a light. Can anyone please help me to determine what could be my issue ? I also tried to replace the Light switch and still same issue
Thnks in Advance
 
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Old 12-29-16, 08:15 AM
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It would be helpful to know the connections under the fan canopy.
 
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Old 12-29-16, 08:50 AM
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I will have to look at this tonight after i get home to see what is there. All i know off the Top of my head is it is a Hunter Ceiling Fan which i know dont really many anything
 
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Old 12-29-16, 10:17 AM
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All i know off the Top of my head is it is a Hunter Ceiling Fan which i know dont really many anything
Correct. It is the house wiring, number cables, total number of house wires not including the ground wires and how the house wires are connected to the fan and each other we are interested in.
 
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Old 12-29-16, 05:12 PM
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Ok pulled the fan down and this is how the fan is wired white to white blk to blk and red to blk with white strip. Switch has 2 red to top screw 3 vlk wires to bottom screw
 
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Old 12-29-16, 05:19 PM
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Are there whites in the switch box connected to each other? How many whites. There should only be one wire per screw. They need to be pigtailed if they aren't. Back stabs should not be used.
 
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Old 12-30-16, 04:13 AM
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This is how the Wires are to the switch
3-White all Wire Nutted together
Top Screw 2 Red 1 to Screw one in the back
Lower Screw 3 Blk 2 to Screw one in the back


Also this is how the Outlet is Wired
Both Screw to the Left are White
Screw to the Left Top is Red 1 to Screw one to Rear
Bottom Screw 1 Blk and 1 Blk in Rear
Not sure if needed this or not but i figured id add
 
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Old 12-30-16, 06:10 AM
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Top Screw 2 Red 1 to Screw one in the back
Change to a pigtail to screw. Backstabs aren't all that reliable.
Lower Screw 3 Blk 2 to Screw one in the back
Wrong. You can't have two wires under a screw (and backstabs are unreliable).
Outlet is Wired
Both Screw to the Left are White
Screw to the Left Top is Red 1 to Screw one to Rear
Bottom Screw 1 Blk and 1 Blk in Rear
Receptacles do not have a top or bottom or a left or right side. They can be installed anyway you want. Ground up or ground down or horizontal. What is important is brass side and silver side. All whites to silver. All other colors except green to brass. In this case the tab between the screws on the brass side should be removed.

I don't know if the changes suggested will help but they are needed. You mention you changed the light switch. It is critical when changing a light switch that when you change out a switch that have multiple wires on the terminal you don't mix up which wires were on each terminal because each group is a splice. A backstab and its associated screw are one terminal.

Let's start simple. If the brass tab isn't removed on the receptacle remove it and see if that does anything.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 12-30-16 at 06:43 AM.
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Old 12-30-16, 06:34 AM
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I have removed the Tab on the Brass and no change
Behind the Light there are 3 White Wires that are all Wire Nutted together and when i was talking about the out let i ment the brass top was red brass bottom was blk and the silver was the White

So the Brass Side is like this 1 Screw Red 1 Backstab and same for the Blk and White Wires 1 to Screw 1 to Backstabs
 
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Old 12-30-16, 06:50 AM
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Brass Side is like this 1 Screw Red 1 Backstab and same for the Blk and White Wires 1 to Screw 1 to Backstabs
Backstabs should not be used. they are a potential point of failure. Use pigtails if not enough screws. The two black wires should be pigtailed to one brass screw. The red to the other brass screw.
 
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Old 12-30-16, 07:01 AM
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this might sound dumb but can you draw that out i believe i know what your saying but seeing it drawn will verify for me
Thanks in Advance
 
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Old 12-30-16, 07:11 AM
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This this how u are saying to Wire ?
 
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Old 12-30-16, 07:22 AM
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My last post #10 was about your receptacle. I'm confused what you are asking about.
 
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Old 12-30-16, 07:24 AM
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Like i said if you could please draw something up quick but how would that effect the rest ?
 
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Old 12-30-16, 07:33 AM
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Give me some time. I need to review the whole post.
 
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Old 12-30-16, 07:56 AM
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(Sorry if previously answered.) Do you have a 3-conductor cable (black, red, white) at the ceiling box for the fan? If so continue reading. If not post back.
  • At the switch box disconnect all wires from the switch.
  • Using a multimeter test each black to ground for ~120v.
  • Mark the 120v black wire" Line".
  • Mark the other two blacks Load 1 and Load 2.
  • Connect Line to Load 1 and measure for voltage at the ceiling box between white and black. If no voltage retest using Line and Load 2 instead.
  • Remark the black load wire at the switch that shows voltage at the ceiling "Fan"

Post your results and we will go from there. Note you can also use a neon test light or a solenoid voltage tester but not a non contact tester for the above tests. Whites remain connected together at the switch box.
 
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Old 12-30-16, 08:02 AM
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So i will need to drop the Ceiling Fan again to Test the Wires only thing that stink about this whole situation is when i turn breaker off it kills all power to Room
 
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Old 12-30-16, 09:36 AM
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I didn't realize the ceiling fan was installed. I can suggest an alternate plan. Follow the above test with the ceiling fan in place.

At the switch connect line to Load 1. If the fan spins remark that black load wire "Fan". If not test Load 2 wire and mark "Fan" if it causes the fan to spin. Be sure the fan switch is on when you test.

Next Connect one of the red wires at the switch to "Line". See if the fan light works. If not try the other red wire. When you find the correct red wire mark it "FL" (Fan Light).

Assumes at the fan the house black is connected to the fan motor (black) and house red to fan light (usually blue or black/white).
 

Last edited by ray2047; 12-30-16 at 10:03 AM.
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Old 12-30-16, 09:59 AM
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So basically you want me yo bypass the Switch to make sure there is voltage going to power the Fan ?
 
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Old 12-30-16, 10:50 AM
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you want me yo bypass the Switch to make sure there is voltage going to power the Fan
More exactly to determine which 3 conductor cable goes to the fan.

Next step will be to verify the other 3-conductor cable goes to the receptacle. (Probably safe to assume and continue if you want without testing.)

When we have done that. You will need to let us know:
  • Do you want the receptacle always hot? (Easiest)
  • Do you ant separate switches for the light and the fan?
  • Do you want to use the switch for just the fan light and have the fan motor wire always hot with the fan controlled by the switch on the fan. (Easiest)
 
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Old 12-30-16, 11:21 AM
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All i want is that when i hit that switch it will turn the Fan light on that is all
 
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Old 12-30-16, 11:40 AM
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Is there a pullchain for the light? If the fan switch is off it will over ride the wall switch.
 
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Old 12-30-16, 12:58 PM
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All i want is that when i hit that switch it will turn the Fan light on
Here would be your basic wiring:

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Replace receptacle with one that does not have the tab removed.
 
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Old 12-30-16, 08:05 PM
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Only issue is i have 2 incoming red so do you want me to just pigtail them ?
 
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Old 12-30-16, 08:08 PM
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Yes there is a pull chain
 
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Old 12-30-16, 08:30 PM
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Only issue is i have 2 incoming red so do you want me to just pigtail them
No. The reds are outgoing not incoming. The outgoing red of the 3-conductor cable to the receptacle is no longer used because you said you only wanted the switch to control the light on the fan. It is capped on both ends with wire nuts. You will need to use a receptacle with the brass tab intact so the black can power both sides of the receptacle.

Please study the diagram and trace out the paths the eclectic follows so you understand why the wires are connected as they are. If you have any questions please ask.

As you can see you must identify which 3-conductor cable goes where so you will know which red wire is not used.
 
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Old 12-31-16, 05:37 AM
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Ok now the oulet is hot as always like inwanted and the lights on the fan are controlled by switch. Just a question if my wife decides she wants the fan also controlled by a switch how would i add that? Thanks so much for the help !!!!!!
 
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Old 12-31-16, 08:24 AM
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if my wife decides she wants the fan also controlled by a switch how would i add that?
You change the switch to a duplex switch. You connect power in black to the tab side and the tab remains in place. Yiu connect red and black of the three conductor cable to the other two screws.

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OR

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Old 12-31-16, 09:43 AM
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So basically like i have but i will then have one side the black and red for the fan and then the remainder on the other side . Not sure if she will want or not but im sure she will say something down the road .Just want quick clarification are u showing the white and blk together ? I greatly appricate everyones help.
 
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Old 12-31-16, 10:23 AM
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are u showing the white and blk together ?
No. Are you mistaking the white power in cable sheath as a connection?
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Last edited by ray2047; 12-31-16 at 10:48 AM.
 

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