Water heater wiring

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Old 01-19-17, 01:39 AM
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Water heater wiring

hello,

i'm remodeling an old kitchen where the previous owner put the water heater in the kitchen pantry. i want to move the water heater back into the garage so the pantry can be a pantry again.

unfortunately, i couldn't find any plumbing or electrical in the garage that was readily available. i believe a long time ago the water heater was in the garage. i tried cutting a few holes in the drywall, used a metal and AC scanner but no luck.

so my plan is to just re-route the plumbing and electrical from the pantry back into the garage. plus, there's a slow leak in the plumbing now. i believe i have the plumbing figured out.

my question is the electrical. by the way, there are two 30amp breakers tied together in the electric panel dedicated to the water heater.

what do you guys think is better:

1) run armorlite 10/2 w/ground mc cable from the junction box in the pantry. run it 15ft into the garage into a new junction box. and then run a shorter section of the mc cable to the water heater.

2) run 10/2 w/ground romex and put it into gray schedule 40 pvc pipe from the junction box in the pantry to the new junction box in the garage. use the old 10/2 wire in aluminum casing to go from the new junction box to the water heater.

3) if it's indoors, do i need to put armorlite mc cable in gray pvc? is that overkill or is that a no-no?

4) i was going to box the plumbing and electrical piping in the pantry with melamine particleboard that can be easily removed to gain access to the pipes and electrical.

appreciate any suggestions or if i'm doing anything wrong.

thanks!
 
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Old 01-19-17, 02:09 AM
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Welcome to the forums.

I think you have it backwards. The new style MC cable has a ground in it and has an aluminum jacket. The old two wire MC was actually BX.... steel armor.

You can run from the old box to the new location using NM-b cable. If the NM is exposed in the garage you can sleeve it in conduit.

MC cable does not require any conduit for protection.
I use MC lite for water heater connections as it has a ground wire along with the two hot wires.

By code.... you should have a disconnect in the garage in place of the junction box for water heater servicing. It does not need to be fused. Just a 2 pole disconnect like used for A/C.
 
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Old 01-19-17, 03:48 AM
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thanks pj!

i think i'm leaning toward the mc lite and not bothering with the gray conduit.

so i just have to run the mc lite from the old junction box to a 60 Amp 240-Volt Non-Fuse Metallic AC Disconnect (GE 60 Amp 240-Volt Non-Fuse Metallic AC Disconnect-TFN60RCP - The Home Depot), connect it to the line terminals. use a shorter mc lite and connect one end to the load terminals and the other end to the water heater then i'm good?

also, i would connect the ground wires from the line side and load side to the grounding block.

thanks!
 
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Old 01-19-17, 05:56 AM
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Yes, the grounds will connect to the ground bus in the disconnect.

Is it possible to reroute the pipes and/or wiring to abandon the old?
 
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Old 01-19-17, 12:58 PM
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i originally wanted to put the pipes and electrical into the wall but too many studs to go through and the corner was just not possible to plumb and wire.

just curious. why does code require a disconnect box when you can just walk 7 ft to the panel and switch off the water heater at the panel when maintenance is required?

thanks!
 
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Old 01-19-17, 01:06 PM
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You need a disconnect within line-of-sight OR a breaker lock shackle on the panel. If the panel is in line-of-sight, it counts as the required disconnect. If it is around a blind corner it does not count. The reason is so that someone can't flip a breaker on and shock a serviceman who they can't see has their hands on wiring.
 
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Old 01-19-17, 01:13 PM
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got it. that makes sense. this is a great forum!!
 
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