Go Back  DoItYourself.com Community Forums > Electrical, AC & DC. Electronic Equipment and Computers > Electrical - AC & DC
Reload this Page >

wiring up forward reverse motor starter with electric interlock

wiring up forward reverse motor starter with electric interlock

Reply

  #1  
Old 03-27-17, 11:18 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 51
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
wiring up forward reverse motor starter with electric interlock

Hello, I am looking to wire up a forward reverse motor starter with estop and electrical interlock. I have the 480 wiring part down, The 110 part is the part that I am struggling with. I run my power from one motor contactor up to the transformer. I then run the 110 line to a single pole breaker and the negative to the overload? I then run the 110 to the NC on the estop, then jump a line off the estop to the NO on the forward push button and NO on the reverse button. This is the part that im get confused with. I then run a line to the NO on the forward contactor and NC on the reverse contactor. And I do the same but opposite off the reverse contactor. I then jump from the NC on the contactor to the a1 on the contactor. Then jump off the a1 to the NO ont he reversing contactor. Then the same but reverse from the reverse contactor. The second line on the over load would be from the A2's that are wired together. Does this sound correct? Thank you. This is for a classroom activity
 

Last edited by mak2492; 03-27-17 at 11:39 AM.
  #2  
Old 03-27-17, 12:44 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 60,876
Received 1,342 Votes on 1,240 Posts
Welcome to the forums.

Draw it and post it so we can see it and comment on it. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
I use basic Paint for quick diagrams.
You can draw it on paper, take a picture and post it that way too.
 
  #3  
Old 03-27-17, 05:08 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 51
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I'll draw it up tonight and post it. Thanks.
 
  #4  
Old 03-27-17, 05:09 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 60,876
Received 1,342 Votes on 1,240 Posts
Cool.... we'll check it out.
 
  #5  
Old 03-27-17, 11:16 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 51
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Name:  IMG_3284.jpg
Views: 6961
Size:  29.5 KB
The red is the 480 and the black is 110. Thank you.
 
  #6  
Old 03-27-17, 11:36 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 60,876
Received 1,342 Votes on 1,240 Posts
The transformer would likely not be 3 phase. It would be a single phase one.
I see overloads on the forward contactor.... why not on the reverse one too ?

In a circuit drawing of this type..... you could make two. One high voltage and one low voltage.

You've got some errors there. You show NO and NC contacts on each contactor but there is also a C contact..... that is not shown.

I'm guessing this is a hypothetical diagram.

If it was going to be an actual used circuit you would need two sets of contacts on each contactor. One set does the holding and the other set locks out the unused contactor so that both contactors can't be energized at the same time.
 
  #7  
Old 03-28-17, 12:07 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 51
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
The transformer has 3 phase coming in and 110 single phase coming out. The overload is tied in together with both contactors.
 
  #8  
Old 03-28-17, 12:12 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 51
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Name:  IMG_3268.jpg
Views: 2953
Size:  24.8 KB
I'm looking at this kind of set up. This one is wired correctly, I just can't tell where all the wires run to and from. Thank you.
 
  #9  
Old 03-28-17, 12:18 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 60,876
Received 1,342 Votes on 1,240 Posts
Sure..... now you post that picture.

 
  #10  
Old 03-28-17, 12:21 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 60,876
Received 1,342 Votes on 1,240 Posts
It looks there are two sets of contacts on each contactor. If you look at my diagram you'll see I only drew one set. That is latching set to hold the coil in on the contactor.

The other set is for button lockout.

So on the forward contactor.... the reverse button would run thru the second contact and be dead while the forward contact was energized.

Understand that ?
 
  #11  
Old 03-28-17, 12:23 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 51
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
With the contactors I had pictured, would it be right or still issues? Thank you.
 
  #12  
Old 03-28-17, 12:26 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 51
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I thought that going from the NO from one to the NC of the other would be the interlock to keep both from energizing.
 
  #13  
Old 03-28-17, 12:47 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 60,876
Received 1,342 Votes on 1,240 Posts
NO=normally open
NC=normally closed
Those are with respect to a C (common) terminal.
There is no connection between NO and NC..... they never touch.
 
  #14  
Old 03-28-17, 08:52 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 51
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Going off those motor starters, would this then be the correct wiring for them?Name:  image.jpg
Views: 3038
Size:  27.7 KB
 
Attached Images  
  #15  
Old 03-28-17, 11:22 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 51
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Here's a close up. I don't see a common on these contactors.

Name:  IMG_3287.JPG
Views: 3266
Size:  39.9 KB
 

Last edited by PJmax; 03-28-17 at 11:57 AM. Reason: labeled picture
  #16  
Old 03-28-17, 11:59 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 60,876
Received 1,342 Votes on 1,240 Posts
I labeled the switches in your picture.
You need to use the contacts as a pair...... like both NO or both NC per side.

Let me explain further as this pertains to you.

If you were wiring the forward contactor..... there would be the forward button. When you push that button it closes the contactor. You would use a set of the NO contacts directly across the forward button so that those contacts would be like holding the button in. This is the holding contact. On the other side you would use the NC set to interrupt the power going to the reverse button so that both contactors could not be engaged at the same time.
 
  #17  
Old 03-28-17, 12:41 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 51
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Similar to the last picture, I just swapped my labels.
 
  #18  
Old 03-28-17, 04:34 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 60,876
Received 1,342 Votes on 1,240 Posts
I was checking out your diagram. I'm guessing you're referring to the first one in post 14 (the second one is less complete).

Still has problems. You don't have two wires on every switch pair.
The wiring is still not correct.

Do you need an actual working diagram or are you just mapping out the wiring in the picture ?
 
  #19  
Old 03-28-17, 07:37 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 51
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Just kind of mapping it out right now. Electrical is the one subject I am struggling with trying to get down. I have all the mechanical stuff down.
 
  #20  
Old 03-28-17, 11:26 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 51
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Name:  IMG_3288.jpg
Views: 5770
Size:  39.6 KB
Think I have it now. The only part is on the OL that one comes from the negative on the he 110 side of the trans?
 
  #21  
Old 03-29-17, 11:03 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 60,876
Received 1,342 Votes on 1,240 Posts
You're getting closer but you have to have two wires on each set of contacts.

Look at the diagram. Let me explain what's going on. Once you understand what's happening you can redraw yours.

At rest.... both sets of NC terminals are closed. Both direction buttons have T1 power.
When either contactor is activated..... the opposite NC contacts open and locks out that button.

The left NO contacts are latching and the right NC contacts are interlock.
You could use the NO and NC on one side of the contactor. I used both sides for clarity.

We'll take it color by color.
Blue/T2 is connected to both coils thru the overloads.
Pink/T1 is our switching voltage. It goes thru the normally closed emergency stop switch and then goes to the interlock switch on each contactor.

Working with the normally open F button with the orange wiring. It gets its T1 power thru the NC contacts on the R contactor. When you push the F button the F contactor is supplied with power. The NO contacts are connected across the pushbutton so when the contactor is energized..... it gets held closed. Pushing the R button does nothing since the NC contacts on F are open killing the R button T1 power.

The same goes for the R button and the green path.
Pushing the ES button will stop the motor.

 
  #22  
Old 03-30-17, 12:23 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 51
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thank you for that. That was easy to follow. I do have a question, is there a reason that the estop went to the contactors and not through the buttons? Or does it. It really make a difference?
 
  #23  
Old 03-30-17, 12:38 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 60,876
Received 1,342 Votes on 1,240 Posts
It does go to the buttons..... but thru the interlock switches.
Without using the interlocks.... both contactors could be energized at the same time.
 
  #24  
Old 04-03-17, 07:49 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 51
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks, that makes sense.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: