All, I'm wondering what electrical work is needed as a prerequisite for an appraisal? This is a pre-1900 home, there is a new electrical box that has either new 3-conductor wire or old cloth-covered 2-conductor wire. There is knob-and-tube showing in walls, though they are all dead circuits and not hooked up - verified by the electrician doing the quote. Many rooms have very old raceway wiring that looks solid, and two prong outlets. I'm wondering if we just remove the dead knob and tube where it is showing in the exposed walls, and ensure the system is powered on and lights and two-wire outlets function if that would be good enough to have the appriasal done. We had one quote from a licensed electrician and he's telling us the whole system needs to be redone. I agree, but later, after the appraisal. I just wanted a preliminary quote for work to get it safe so it can be appraised. Can you confirm the requirements for an appraisal (in NJ if that matters)? thank you very much!

Ok, dishwasher motor, vertical axis, 1/3hp, 34xx rpm, spins freely, came out of an appliance that burned up its control board. Two resistors fried and melted the solder, no more connection. Checked the coils for resistance, nothing unusual. Primary coil between yellow and blue wire was 5 ohm, 9 for intermediate and 17 for the most resistive path. The colors of wire are:Blue, Yellow, Red, Gray. Internally thermally protected, but not likely containing an internal capacitor for startup. Tried every combination and sequence for startup, got a healthy hum and in all cases, once the juice was turned on, the shaft magnetically locked to where I couldn't turn it, and I have fairly strong hands. Startup combinations included all 3 winding wires connected, one of each startup wire connected, connecting the startup coil in each combination after the primary coil was energized, healthy spark on disconnect, hum was noticeably louder when connecting the secondary. In all cases the motor would not spin, simply lock in place. IF the issue is capacitor, I'm wondering if the original control board has the capacitor already mounted along with a circuit breaker ( I just don't recognize it by looking at the board, yet). Does anybody know if my wiring is incorrect or whether the IC board has the pieces I need to turn this thing on with the right sequence? I have a fan blade that fits the shaft perfectly, The blade is about 20" with three blades, so the torque and cooling requirements should be reasonable. Was really hoping the DW motor was three speed, but I'm thinking it's just reversible and one speed. Incidentally, I was happy with the original fan motor, but the coils are different (3 speed motor), and it has a thermal switch with an 8uf cap built in. I get a small resistance across the leads, which tells me current can pass through, that the thermal fuse isn't broken, but I don't know how to tell if the capacitor is good. It just occurred to me that my VOM might have a setting for that, might. I did try running a jumper across the thermal switch, but there was no difference. I'll recheck the main switch and coils, but still not sure about the capacitor. Either want to get the original motor working or get the one from the dishwasher in there (more power ohhh ha ha) model number s62nxkdm-7648 [COLOR=#0000cd]Separated from....[/COLOR] [URL]http://www.doityourself.com/forum/electrical-ac-dc/544606-dishwasher-motors-looking-wiring-diagram.html[/URL]