GFCI Outlet Still Clicking Even when Light is OFF and Test button Tripped??
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GFCI Outlet Still Clicking Even when Light is OFF and Test button Tripped??
Im not very electrically knowledgeable in some areas, this is one of them. At the very bottom are 3 questions and some info about the circuit that I'm aware of.
Recently a GFCI outlet in the master bathroom that shares the same space as a light switch in the wall started tripping and making loud popping sounds, like popcorn, except louder. An electric shaver, charging was plugged in.
It sounds like the snapping of two metal pieces hitting each other sort of.
I removed the only item plugged into the outlet immediately, an electric shaver. The popping stopped and then continued.
My landlord told me to leave the reset button out so that the little green light built into the outlet remains off until he can come over and fix it.
Today I heard the outlet go off again, yet the reset button was already out, the green light was off of course, and nothing was plugged into the outlet.
The fuse in the breaker box was not set off at any point.
Also, from what I can tell, no other outlets or items plugged into outlets are affected, that I'm aware of.
For example, I have an alarm clock that is plugged into a different outlet but is controlled by the same fuse in the breaker box, and that was not affected by the popping of the GFCI outlet.
Of course if I turn off the breaker switch, that outlet and the GFCI no longer have power.
1. How is the popping sound occurring even if the green light is off?
2. What may be the cause?
3. Is this popping sound arcing of electricity?
4. This all sounds like a fire hazard if the fuses remain on, RIGHT?
My "understanding" was if the green light was off, no power is flowing into the outlet and thus there's nothing to trip, thus no popping sound would occur until the landlord can fix it....
I'd appreciate any input. No other outlets seems to be affected in the apartment.
CIRCUIT INFO:
Fuse box:
There's a tandom switch (2 switches connected to each other for ON/OFF) each reads 20 on the switch.
As I don't know which switch controls what outlets because they turn on/off together this is what is plugged into all the outlets and/or what they control that I'm aware of. No other items are plugged into outlets that lose power due to turning off the fuses/breaker switches
Bedroom:
In the same wall outlet in the bedroom:
1. An alarm clock in an outlet
2. A USB charging cord- no cell phone connected
3. Power brick for a telephone handset (phone inside the charging cradle)
4. The master bathroom lights no longer function
Kitchen:
1. The electric ignition for the burners of a gas stove no longer function when the breakers are turned to off.
Dining Room:
1. There's at least one outlet controlled by these breakers, plugged into that outlet is the following:
a. Microwave
b. A Belkin surge suppressor: plugged into the surge supressor at the time of the popping sound the following: a) 2 USB cords for 2 cell phones (cell phones NOT connected), b) 1 Plug for a laptop computer- Computer NOT connected c) Power brick for a telephone handset (phone inside the charging cradle)
Recently a GFCI outlet in the master bathroom that shares the same space as a light switch in the wall started tripping and making loud popping sounds, like popcorn, except louder. An electric shaver, charging was plugged in.
It sounds like the snapping of two metal pieces hitting each other sort of.
I removed the only item plugged into the outlet immediately, an electric shaver. The popping stopped and then continued.
My landlord told me to leave the reset button out so that the little green light built into the outlet remains off until he can come over and fix it.
Today I heard the outlet go off again, yet the reset button was already out, the green light was off of course, and nothing was plugged into the outlet.
The fuse in the breaker box was not set off at any point.
Also, from what I can tell, no other outlets or items plugged into outlets are affected, that I'm aware of.
For example, I have an alarm clock that is plugged into a different outlet but is controlled by the same fuse in the breaker box, and that was not affected by the popping of the GFCI outlet.
Of course if I turn off the breaker switch, that outlet and the GFCI no longer have power.
1. How is the popping sound occurring even if the green light is off?
2. What may be the cause?
3. Is this popping sound arcing of electricity?
4. This all sounds like a fire hazard if the fuses remain on, RIGHT?
My "understanding" was if the green light was off, no power is flowing into the outlet and thus there's nothing to trip, thus no popping sound would occur until the landlord can fix it....
I'd appreciate any input. No other outlets seems to be affected in the apartment.
CIRCUIT INFO:
Fuse box:
There's a tandom switch (2 switches connected to each other for ON/OFF) each reads 20 on the switch.
As I don't know which switch controls what outlets because they turn on/off together this is what is plugged into all the outlets and/or what they control that I'm aware of. No other items are plugged into outlets that lose power due to turning off the fuses/breaker switches
Bedroom:
In the same wall outlet in the bedroom:
1. An alarm clock in an outlet
2. A USB charging cord- no cell phone connected
3. Power brick for a telephone handset (phone inside the charging cradle)
4. The master bathroom lights no longer function
Kitchen:
1. The electric ignition for the burners of a gas stove no longer function when the breakers are turned to off.
Dining Room:
1. There's at least one outlet controlled by these breakers, plugged into that outlet is the following:
a. Microwave
b. A Belkin surge suppressor: plugged into the surge supressor at the time of the popping sound the following: a) 2 USB cords for 2 cell phones (cell phones NOT connected), b) 1 Plug for a laptop computer- Computer NOT connected c) Power brick for a telephone handset (phone inside the charging cradle)
Last edited by viper699; 05-29-17 at 11:58 AM.
#2
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When did the landlord say that he would be there? It's really his problem. Is part of the house an extension that was added after the original build? Look where the old meets new.
#3
Some GFCI's have indicator lights to show they are "on", and some show "off", so it's difficult to know without the brand you have. GFCI's do go bad, but I have never heard of one clicking after it trips. The landlord should take care of this in short order.
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It's 4 or 5 unit building that has apartments. It wasn't a home converted into apts, not here.
I didn't think the brand GFCI would be needed. I don't know it.
Landlord's fix it man will be here tomorrow morning it seems. I'd prefer an electrician myself.
This GFCI only has a green light for an indicator.
The part that puzzles me is the clicking sound despite having the RESET button in the out position.
I didn't think the brand GFCI would be needed. I don't know it.
Landlord's fix it man will be here tomorrow morning it seems. I'd prefer an electrician myself.
This GFCI only has a green light for an indicator.
The part that puzzles me is the clicking sound despite having the RESET button in the out position.

#5
The GFI is an electronic device. It has a circuit board inside. It may be sitting there in the tripped position and not supplying any voltage out but the board and control circuit are still live.
It would be best if the "handyman" just changed the receptacle.
It would be best if the "handyman" just changed the receptacle.
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Thanks I didn't know it could sit in the tripped position. I gathered it had a circuit board from the reading I had done. I hadn't come across anyone yet with one that popped when the light was off.
Good point, thanks. I have no intentions of changing it. I don't spend my time and money on something that isn't mine, that's what rent is for.
Good point, thanks. I have no intentions of changing it. I don't spend my time and money on something that isn't mine, that's what rent is for.

#7
I didn't mean it like you shouldn't change it yourself.... even though you shouldn't.... I meant that instead of the handyman just pushing the button and saying it's fine..... just have him replace it.