How do tap into the power from this receptacle?
#41
07-05-17, 11:50 AM
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Thread Starter
The problem I'm having is that when I measured the black and white wires from the light fixture to the outlet, it's 118v but when I connect all white to one wire nut and black to one wire nut (as shown in the previous graphic), the outlet shows zero volts. The romex cable from the light fixture to the outlet is only about 4 feet long and I can see right in front of me since there is no drywall covering. I guess I can use something like the Wago conductor connector compact to make sure each and every individual wire is connected.
#42
07-05-17, 12:39 PM
Member
when I measured the black and white wires from the light fixture to the outlet, it's 118v
#43
07-05-17, 04:47 PM
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Thread Starter
Thank you so much for everyone's help and responses. I finally got it working with Wago conductor connector. I think the cables must have been loose, somehow, when I tighten the wire nut.
#44
07-07-17, 02:15 PM
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Thread Starter
Okay, I just found an issue and I'm not sure what it is. Since I thought I go it working, I turn on my computers and various other stuff on and the break has been tripping off all the time. I tried to turn it on and I see sparks. Is this a sign that I'm overloading the breaker? Thank you.
#45
07-07-17, 02:42 PM
Member
I tried to turn it on and I see sparks. Is this a sign that I'm overloading the breaker?
#46
07-14-17, 04:07 PM
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Thread Starter
Okay, so this is the whole picture of the situations now.
Yellow dot 1 is the source of the power supply and coming from the light fixture.
Receptacle outlet 1 is the current outlet (which I wanted to make it always working/hot)
Receptacle outlet 2 is the extension (added outlet) that wanted
Receptacle outlet 3 is the outlet that will be controlled by the wall switch that the LV345T device is plugged to
The reason why it was working fine for a while was because the switch was turned off. I did not know that the switch actually controls the receptacle outlet 1. So once I turned the switch to on, it trips the breaker with a spark. Thus, if I want to have the switch control the outlet, I'll have to add another receptacle outlet (number 3).
Please let me know if the wiring is correct.
Thank you for all your suggestions and help. I'd appreciated very much.
Yellow dot 1 is the source of the power supply and coming from the light fixture.
Receptacle outlet 1 is the current outlet (which I wanted to make it always working/hot)
Receptacle outlet 2 is the extension (added outlet) that wanted
Receptacle outlet 3 is the outlet that will be controlled by the wall switch that the LV345T device is plugged to
The reason why it was working fine for a while was because the switch was turned off. I did not know that the switch actually controls the receptacle outlet 1. So once I turned the switch to on, it trips the breaker with a spark. Thus, if I want to have the switch control the outlet, I'll have to add another receptacle outlet (number 3).
Please let me know if the wiring is correct.
Thank you for all your suggestions and help. I'd appreciated very much.
#48
07-14-17, 06:20 PM
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Thread Starter
Quick question. The two wires from the switch is white, black, and ground. It does not have two blacks. Thus, my drawing shows white (re-labled to black) goes to the wire nut (because it's not long enough to go to the switch controlled outlet) and from the wire nut will a black wire will go to the switch controlled outlet. Is this still wrong?
#49
07-14-17, 06:33 PM
Member
You can relabel a wire from a cable but you can not relabel an individual wire. If the cable black is too short you need to splice a black wire to it.
Bet you made the mistake of connecting a neutral to the switch just because you saw a white wire. That is why you had a short. Remember all whites are not neutral and neutrals don't go to a regular switch.
The two wires from the switch is white, black, and ground.
#53
07-14-17, 07:58 PM
Member
As stated an individual wire can not be white (or gray or green) from the switch. If the black of the receptacle cable is too short you must use a black (or any color except white, gray, or green) to lengthen it.
#54
07-14-17, 08:14 PM
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Thread Starter
Okay, so what do I do with the white wire coming from the switch? Do I then just ignore the white wire altogether from the switch to the outlet 3? So that means I will only need the black wire from the switch that goes to wire nut #1?
#55
07-14-17, 08:48 PM
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Thread Starter
This is what the original switch controlled outlet looks like. It looks like the white from the switch goes to the silver screw on the outlet and the black wire from the source of power goes to the gold screw. The white wires from the source of power is spliced with the black wire from the switch.
#57
07-15-17, 07:11 PM
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Thread Starter
I don't quite understand this.
But this is what I have currently. The wires from the switch is white, black, and ground. Are you saying whoever did this wiring did not know what he was doing?
In my case, it's the white wire coming from the switch that is too short; thus, I have the wire nut #3 and connect it to the black (because it was a hot wire) that goes to the gold screw on the outlet.
This wiring below allows me to turn the outlet #3 on and off using the switch. Plus outlet #1 is always hot as I wanted it to be. The problem is, it shows bad ground when I plug in a little tester to outlet #3 and #1.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]83093[/ATTACH]
As stated an individual wire can not be white (or gray or green) from the switch.
If the black of the receptacle cable is too short you must use a black (or any color except white, gray, or green) to lengthen it.
This wiring below allows me to turn the outlet #3 on and off using the switch. Plus outlet #1 is always hot as I wanted it to be. The problem is, it shows bad ground when I plug in a little tester to outlet #3 and #1.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]83093[/ATTACH]
#58
07-15-17, 09:18 PM
Member
But this is what I have currently. The wires from the switch is white, black, and ground. Are you saying whoever did this wiring did not know what he was doing?
The problem is, it shows bad ground when I plug in a little tester to outlet #3 and #1.
Last edited by ray2047; 07-15-17 at 10:01 PM.
#59
07-24-17, 05:54 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Does that ground wire measure ~120v to black of the power in cable?
