Wiring Ceiling Fan
#1
11-15-17, 02:51 PM
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Wiring Ceiling Fan
I recently installed a ceiling fan in place of a light fixture which was connected to a dimmer switch. I know that it is unsafe to have a motorized appliance connected to a dimmer switch so I'm trying to correct this problem.
My house was built in the 40's and I have old cloth wiring. I have very limited experience in electrical wiring.
I replaced the dimmer switch with a single pole switch, but the ceiling fan did not operate properly. The fan was on max speed regardless of the three settings and almost seemed like it was about to fly off the ceiling it was going so fast. I'm not sure if I installed this incorrectly, but the pole switch was connected the best I could with the cloth wiring - it was difficult to loop around the screws on the switch.
I was looking into ceiling fan remotes or a proper grade dimmer switch that can control the light and fan separately. What is the best route to go to solve this problem?
I appreciate all input and help!
My house was built in the 40's and I have old cloth wiring. I have very limited experience in electrical wiring.
I replaced the dimmer switch with a single pole switch, but the ceiling fan did not operate properly. The fan was on max speed regardless of the three settings and almost seemed like it was about to fly off the ceiling it was going so fast. I'm not sure if I installed this incorrectly, but the pole switch was connected the best I could with the cloth wiring - it was difficult to loop around the screws on the switch.
I was looking into ceiling fan remotes or a proper grade dimmer switch that can control the light and fan separately. What is the best route to go to solve this problem?
I appreciate all input and help!
#2
11-15-17, 03:24 PM
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That was a good idea to replace the dimmer with a single pole switch. Does the fan have a light assembly too? Was there a blue & black wire on the top of the fixture? How many hot leads were in the ceiling? Is it possible to trace the wiring back to a junction box or far enough to pass the damaged cloth? There is a slide on insulation available but I would rather see you cut out the damaged section.
#3
11-15-17, 10:00 PM
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It is also unsafe to install a ceiling fan on an existing electrical box unless it is specifically rated for fan duty.
#4
11-17-17, 02:08 PM
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Donato - Yes, there is a light fixture and there are blue, black (light and motor) and white (neutral) wires on top of the fixture. I have two hot leads in the ceiling. Currently I have the light and motor attached to one and the neutral attached to the other. Should I switch this?
I am unable to trace the the wiring back to the junction box. Do I need to strip that frayed cloth? There is also frayed cloth in the ceiling - how hazardous is this? Should I just strip that as well?
Thanks for your help - I am no expert here, but I can't afford an electrician so I am trying to DIY hence why I'm here!
I am unable to trace the the wiring back to the junction box. Do I need to strip that frayed cloth? There is also frayed cloth in the ceiling - how hazardous is this? Should I just strip that as well?
Thanks for your help - I am no expert here, but I can't afford an electrician so I am trying to DIY hence why I'm here!
#5
11-17-17, 02:35 PM
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The white should not be connected to a hot from the ceiling. It needs to connect to the circuit neutral .
the insulation may need to be repaired if it is cracked or frayed. It is a hazard to have bare hot or neutrals in the box.
the insulation may need to be repaired if it is cracked or frayed. It is a hazard to have bare hot or neutrals in the box.
#6
11-17-17, 03:22 PM
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Pcboss Is correct. The white wire has to be connected to the white (neutral) in the ceiling. If you have 2 hot leads in the ceiling & 2 switches, one hot goes to the black & the other to the blue.
#7
11-17-17, 04:29 PM
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Hmm, I may have misspoke, but I'll have to disassemble the fan again to confirm. I believe there is one neutral and one hot in the ceiling and I had the white connected to the neutral and the black and blue wires connected to the hot.
There are only two leads(?) in the ceiling so I'm assuming one has to be neutral and the other hot? I couldn't really see any colors in the ceiling due to the cloth wiring.
I did purchase a single pole fan control and dimmer so I could control the fan and lights individually, but I'm hesitant to try this option due to my old wiring.
There are only two leads(?) in the ceiling so I'm assuming one has to be neutral and the other hot? I couldn't really see any colors in the ceiling due to the cloth wiring.
I did purchase a single pole fan control and dimmer so I could control the fan and lights individually, but I'm hesitant to try this option due to my old wiring.
#9
11-18-17, 09:47 AM
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I am going to try the single pole switch again now and let you know how it goes.
Another question: Should I trim the excess cloth here? I read somewhere that you should just push it back, but it is heavily deteriorated. I could wrap in electric tape?
Another question: Should I trim the excess cloth here? I read somewhere that you should just push it back, but it is heavily deteriorated. I could wrap in electric tape?
#13
11-20-17, 10:53 AM
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I got all of the frayed cloth wire cleaned up with the heat shrinking tube and reconnected the single pole switch. Everything works as it should now except the fan makes a little bit of noise when on its 2nd and 3rd highest settings. Is it possible I need to replace the switch inside the fan since I was using it on the dimmer for a while?
#14
11-20-17, 11:11 AM
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The switch inside the fan changes motor windings and possibly capacitors to change speed. If the speed changes... the switch is good. It is possible to have a defective capacitor but I'd imagine it's more of a normal noise with that particular fan.
Questions:
(1) Since I connected the metal box to the panel with EMT, there is already EGC so there is no need to run a green conductor down there, correct? Or do I still need one? Doesn't matter either way it's easy enough to do just wanted to make sure.
(2) Even if I could "conveniently" and practically fit a GFCI receptacle as a first in line device, in this case it wouldn't offer any protection because I don't have ground from the panel to the GFCI anyway, correct?