I know when I am beaten and I am completely Stumped by this box. I’m no electrician but not completely useless either. I am upgrading switches to z-wave, most of which has been straightforward. I have one 3-gang box at my front door that I deleted the pic I took of it before I took it apart. The three circuits are a 3way foyer lights (no problem here), 3 way porch lights and a 3 way exterior lights with in wall timer. The foyer is fine but the other two I can’t put back together. I’ve diagrammed this out as best I can: I'm new to this asking for help thing so hopefully I'm in the right place and everything is correct- and one of you all can help. I did my best to make post clear and diagram everything out. Middle switch: The porch switch is center position. Black and red from 14/3 to the traveler terminals, common was pigtailed but I don’t recall to what. The other switch (the next pic, 2-gang) has 2 black/1 red 14/3, the traveler terminals are continuous with the travelers from this box. I don’t know where the common in the 2-gang box is from but its in the same romex with the travelers from the box below. The main box has 14/2 that I am pretty sure is the load to the lights as I get single wire continuity to the fixtures. One of the neutrals in this box was pigtailed with – I think – two black wires and hot. I think it might have been the neutral on the 14/3 to the center 3 way switch. Left switch: Another 3 way, other switch is an in-wall timer in the closer. This used to be a standard timer but I switched it to a digital pls750c a few years back to tie the lights to sunset. I’ve been replacing a lot of switches, so its possible I mixed things up, but I think this was a 2-way switch/single pole switch. If that’s the case, I don’t know how that would work because the 14/2 coming into the timer (3rd pic) is not hot. In fact… I can’t figure out where the line is for the exteriors. I shut everything down ran and continuity tested the 3 unknown 14/2s. I originally got continuity on the with the black box over it, but that was with a remote tester. Thinking this was the 2nd line (there’s two 15A breakers for the foyer) it didn’t work. I retested running a wire and do not have continuity, so I think the original was false from the neutral (lots of motors, fans in the house and some weird wiring with neutrals so makes sense). Either that or its on a different breaker that’s bad that I can’t seem to find. The problem 3 gang: The 2-gang at other door (porch). This wasn't touched so its correct. Common is a mystery, if it looks white its just overspray Timer - unless i've got a bad breaker and its on a different breaker than I thought then the 14/2 is not line in: Manual for pls750 [url]http://www.houseneeds.com/upload/pdf/honeywell-pls750c-manual.pdf[/url] Appreciate the help. holliday lights can't go up until I get this one solved and kids/SO are not amused. THanks!

Hi, I am experiencing some strange problems related to an outlet, would be glad if someone can provide any advice. I have an outlet that is connected to an on-off switch. A few days ago, when I was using a heater, at the lowest setting, connected to that outlet, the electricity on that outlet went out. I turned off the switch, turned it back on, electricity came back. I was using a 6-outlet tap, but only light, clock, and a usb charger was connected to it. I removed everything, and connected cables one by one; even with nothing was running, when I connected either the clock or the usb charger, electricity to the outlet went out again. I assumed maybe the 6-outlet tap was the problem, so I changed it. Later on, when I turned on the heater, at low/mid setting, I noticed some buzzing sound coming from the circuit breaker (sound was barely noticeable at the low setting, but audible near the breaker at mid setting), so I reset it. Assumed maybe it wanted to trip but the switch circuit prevented it. So, after manually resetting the circuit, the buzzing sound went away, and everything was back to normal. Yesterday, again, when the heater was on at the lowest setting, I noticed some cracking sounds coming from behind the wall, in between the outlet and the switch (no buzzing from the circuit breaker). I also noticed that the light was flickering. I removed the light, also, removed the 6-outlet tap, and connected the heater directly to the outlet (at low setting, normally shouldn't be an issue). The sounds were still there. After I turned off the switch, I also noticed the top part of the switch to be slightly warm. Any suggestion on what might be the problem. I tried different heaters (assuming maybe the heater had a problem), same thing happened, connected the heater to a different outlet, didn't notice a problem.