Proper way to crimp solderless connectors with this tool?
#1

I had a cheap ratcheting crimper that broke but I think I found a better tool anyway.
I now have a Channellock 908 wiring tool. It is an older version without the Coax part.
I have not tried it yet but I think I just put the connector in the jaw of the tool and squeeze until the connector is tight?
What part of the jaw am I supposed to use? and what is the "Insulation Only" and the "7-8MM Auto" part for?
Thanks
PS:
I am using the insulated connectors
I mostly use the Red connectors (22-18 AWG) and the Blue connectors (16-14 AWG)
I now have a Channellock 908 wiring tool. It is an older version without the Coax part.
I have not tried it yet but I think I just put the connector in the jaw of the tool and squeeze until the connector is tight?
What part of the jaw am I supposed to use? and what is the "Insulation Only" and the "7-8MM Auto" part for?
Thanks
PS:
I am using the insulated connectors
I mostly use the Red connectors (22-18 AWG) and the Blue connectors (16-14 AWG)
#2
You'd use the insulated/non-insulated jaw.
Those crimpers are..... ok.
I use a ratcheting crimp tool and the Klein 1005. Nice long handles. Very strong.
Those crimpers are..... ok.
I use a ratcheting crimp tool and the Klein 1005. Nice long handles. Very strong.

#3
You use the end to crimp the wire into the metal sleeve.
I was taught to also crimp the plastic insulator section in addition. But I know many do not.
Notice that yours is labeled insulation and non insulation.

I was taught to also crimp the plastic insulator section in addition. But I know many do not.
Notice that yours is labeled insulation and non insulation.


#4
Member
I found that this type of crimper tends to damage plastic insulation. Surface area is just too narrow and it cuts into the plastic.
Crimper suggested by PJmax works better.
Crimper suggested by PJmax works better.
#5
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Wet side of Washington state.
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The 7-8 MM Auto position is for automotive spark plug wire terminals.
Honestly, if you are doing any amount of terminal crimping you really need to get a ratcheting tool. You can get a fairly decent one with interchangeable die heads for less than $30 on Ebay. If you do lot of crimping then you will want an American made tool and they cost significantly more. I have several ratcheting tools and I wouldn't be without them.
Honestly, if you are doing any amount of terminal crimping you really need to get a ratcheting tool. You can get a fairly decent one with interchangeable die heads for less than $30 on Ebay. If you do lot of crimping then you will want an American made tool and they cost significantly more. I have several ratcheting tools and I wouldn't be without them.
#6
Here is the one I was using
I still have it but now it will not crimp the connectors tight enough, There is a screw that rests against the piece that controls the tightness of the crimp but I am afraid to tighten it as it is a soft metal and I don't want to shear the head off.
If I could find another screw that is a harder metal I would use that tool again.
I agree ratcheting tools are the way to go
I would say I don't use the tool alot but when I do I often crimp a whole bunch at a time and then not use the tool for months at a time and then repeat the sequence
I still have it but now it will not crimp the connectors tight enough, There is a screw that rests against the piece that controls the tightness of the crimp but I am afraid to tighten it as it is a soft metal and I don't want to shear the head off.
If I could find another screw that is a harder metal I would use that tool again.
I agree ratcheting tools are the way to go
I would say I don't use the tool alot but when I do I often crimp a whole bunch at a time and then not use the tool for months at a time and then repeat the sequence

#7
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Wet side of Washington state.
Posts: 18,495
Received 37 Upvotes
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This is my favorite. https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...7486-ND/297745
No, I didn't pay that much for it. I got it at the company surplus store for about five bucks. I guess it could no longer pass the QC certification. Still works better than any other crimper I have owned. I also have a Sargent and a Paladin or Amphenol or something that is a good tool. Both of them were north of $50 as I recall.
The one I got from Ebay was to be able to crimp the itty-bitty pins for Molex connectors but it included four or five different heads. It works well for regular insulated terminals. I think I paid about $25-28 for that one.
No, I didn't pay that much for it. I got it at the company surplus store for about five bucks. I guess it could no longer pass the QC certification. Still works better than any other crimper I have owned. I also have a Sargent and a Paladin or Amphenol or something that is a good tool. Both of them were north of $50 as I recall.
The one I got from Ebay was to be able to crimp the itty-bitty pins for Molex connectors but it included four or five different heads. It works well for regular insulated terminals. I think I paid about $25-28 for that one.
#9
That tool should work just fine.
The spot to use for crimping is labled "crimp".
Just give the wire a gentle tug to make sure the connection is secure.
The spot to use for crimping is labled "crimp".
Just give the wire a gentle tug to make sure the connection is secure.
#10

Here is the one I was using
I still have it but now it will not crimp the connectors tight enough, There is a screw that rests against the piece that controls the tightness of the crimp but I am afraid to tighten it as it is a soft metal and I don't want to shear the head off.
If I could find another screw that is a harder metal I would use that tool again.
I agree ratcheting tools are the way to go
I would say I don't use the tool alot but when I do I often crimp a whole bunch at a time and then not use the tool for months at a time and then repeat the sequence
I still have it but now it will not crimp the connectors tight enough, There is a screw that rests against the piece that controls the tightness of the crimp but I am afraid to tighten it as it is a soft metal and I don't want to shear the head off.
If I could find another screw that is a harder metal I would use that tool again.
I agree ratcheting tools are the way to go
I would say I don't use the tool alot but when I do I often crimp a whole bunch at a time and then not use the tool for months at a time and then repeat the sequence

I also work on computers so I checked my screw box and I found one that fit and that screw is an M3 screw (Metric No surprise there)
I believe those screws are zinc plated steel anyway that tool is back into action