Questions for Homebrew Control Panel


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Old 02-20-18, 11:37 PM
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Questions for Homebrew Control Panel

I recently took on a 240v 30amp electric brewery project. The last step in completing the brewery has come down to wiring up my control panel. My electrical skills are pretty rudimentary so I'm sure I will be asking plenty of questions. First question is: If I have a 30 amp GFCI breaker installed in the control panel do I still need to install a standard 30 amp breaker or does the GFCI breaker replace it?
 
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Old 02-21-18, 05:03 AM
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You will need to have a breaker in your home's breaker panel to provide power to your brew rig. That breaker could be GFCI so you don't need to put it in your control panel. Also, with the GFCI in your breaker panel it will protect everything connected to it including the plug, socket and cord that feeds your brewery.
 
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Old 03-05-18, 12:35 PM
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So I got my control panel completely wired up and I'm having some issues. here is the link to the schematic I followed. https://skrilnetz.net/how-to-build-a...s-240v-30-amp/
I have gone through my wiring several times and everything is exactly as shown in the schematic.
First issue I am running into is when I turn on a heating element I am not drawing any amps and the elements are not heating up. I used my tester at the receptacles for the heating elements at the control box, and on both receptacles one hot lead is showing 115v and the other is showing 105v. I can hear the contactor engaging but again no amps at either receptacle.
Second issue I am running into is that when I use the 3 way selector switch to turn on one of the heating elements the led indicator mounted under the corresponding PID controller is not lighting up.
The only components that are not identical to the ones Mike Skrill used are the SSRs. These are the ones I used https://www.amazon.com/BEM-14840DA-3...rds=40+amp+ssr
The red led on the boil SSR lights up when the controller is powered up but the one on the HLT SSR does not.
As far as I can tell everything else is functioning as it should.
Anybody have an answer?
 
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Old 03-05-18, 01:12 PM
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It's pretty hard to follow the linked to diagrams vs what you are doing as in the diagram the heaters are 240v and yours are 120v. On the receptacle you should measure 120v to ground on the hot slot and 0v from the neutral to ground. Since you are showing 105v on the neutral..... it would mean that it is not connected to actual neutral.
 
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Old 03-05-18, 02:01 PM
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My system is suppose to be 240v 30 amp. Its the exact same control panel. I have 4 wires coming into the panel for incoming power. A ground, 2 hot wires conected to the main contactor, and a neutral connected to my neutral bus. The receptacles for the heating elements are a 3 pronged 240v 30amp twist lock with two hot leads from their corresponding contactors and a ground. Is this where I screwed up? Is the third wire suppose to be a neutral lead rather than a ground?
 
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Old 03-05-18, 02:11 PM
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Is the third wire suppose to be a neutral lead rather than a ground?
NO.... not if it's supposed to be a 240v circuit. There should be two hots and ground.

I have to look the diagrams over again.
 
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Old 03-05-18, 02:13 PM
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If I have volts but am not drawing any amps I’m wondering if the SSRs are bad, or if I’m simply not running the PIDs correctly. This is by far the most complex wiring project I have taken on so tracing the issue to the source is over my head. I’m certain I have the PIDs in the correct mode but its possible that they’re not, and i would think it unlikely that I received two bad SSRs...
 

Last edited by gerard.weyns; 03-05-18 at 02:29 PM.
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Old 03-05-18, 03:12 PM
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Looks like the pumps are 120 and the heaters are 240V. do you measure 240V at the main contactor? You are using all 4 wires for the mains, correct?
 
 

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