I want to install a single pole dimmer to replace a single pole switch. The Switch controls 1 light however has 3 sets of white black wires. I can only assume that 2 sets are for pass through to other sockets located in the same room. How do I tell which ones are which and how do i wire the switch. Pictures are included. Thanks for all your help in advance.

I know, I know.. it can't be done.. but in my situation, I think it's possible, but it's a very unique situation. Here's the problem: I own my own catering business and I have a few food warmers that I want to operate on the same 15 amp circuit. Since I do these events at random places with random layouts, I can't always rely on having 2 or 3 individual circuits within easy access. In addition, most catering situations don't allow me to stretch an extension chord 100 feet to another outlet. It looks tacky and it will be complained about. To keep it simple, lets just work with 2 warmers. Each one is 110v/1300w. The advantage I have to making this work is that food warmers are all or nothing. They aren't variable. Water temp drops below a certain level, and the warmers kick on. Full 1300w draw until the water reaches the peak temp, then the draw is cut off completely (outside of a few watts to maintain the circuitry monitoring temp and controlling the internal relay). My initial thought was to use a current sensing setup. Unit 1 would be plugged into outlet A, and unit 2 would be plugged into outlet B. When Unit 1 turns on, Outlet A detects the current being drawn and cuts power to Outlet B. When Outlet A no longer detects the higher current being drawn from it, it restores power to Outlet B. In a perfect world, this works. My problem is; What if Outlet B currently has power being drawn from it when Outlet A suddenly gets a power surge from the Unit 1 turning on? Unfortunately, by the time the current sensing device detects power being drawn from Outlet A in order to trip the relay to turn off Outlet B, I've already tried drawing 2600w from the 15 amp circuit, and I trip a circuit breaker (This is all theory, I haven't tried it, but realistically, this makes sense. I'd need a break before make circuit, and this is a make before break). The only way I can see making this work is having to have some sort of continuity between Outlet A and Outlet B, so if voltage is sensed on either one, they automatically turn off the previous one until power is no longer being drawn at high levels. The only other way to do it would be to have some sort of timer that goes back and forth, turning one outlet on for 5-10 minutes, then switching to the other. The electric steam trays I'm using are pretty efficient/insulated, so they don't drop in temperature very quickly. Even with food trays almost completely empty, since they are preventing steam from leaving the steam tray. Anyone have thoughts on how to make this work without spending an arm and a leg on some $200+ electrical switcher? I do have a Niles APC-2 lying around that I can use within my custom circuit which may help a lot. It however turns a built in outlet on when current is sensed, with variable level of detection, as well as 12v triggers, relays and so on. Would love some ideas :)