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14 AWG THWN Conductors on a 20A Circuit for Hardwired Fixtures

14 AWG THWN Conductors on a 20A Circuit for Hardwired Fixtures

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  #1  
Old 03-29-18, 04:15 PM
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Question 14 AWG THWN Conductors on a 20A Circuit for Hardwired Fixtures

So I have this 20A circuit that I want to use to install my 4 LED/Camera combination (Ring Floodlight if you want to google).

There is a 12AWG NMB exiting the house in a junction box. In this junction box, raceway splits, 2 on each raceway wired in series.

The entire run is controlled by a switch upstairs (the switch itself is on 12AWG).

The question is, can this part of the circuit be 14 AWG? As you can imagine, fishing 14 AWG is going to be much easier. But I definitely do not want to cut any corners and do it by the book. However, I just dont see any value running 12 AWG besides the fact that circuit is 20A. These lights are LED lights and I dont believe they will consume anywhere near the 14 AWG limit.

The entire run is going to be around 100 ft.
 
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Old 03-29-18, 04:32 PM
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Either reduce the breaker to 15A or use #12 for the circuit extension. Also nothing should be wired in series on a 120V circuit, should be parallel.
 
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Old 03-29-18, 05:10 PM
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Got it thanks. I cant reduce it to 15, I ll just stick to 12 AWG
 
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Old 03-30-18, 04:43 AM
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Regarding series vs paralel, is it still considered paralel when I have the following:

- Line coming in to the light fixture has its black and white
- Light fixture has its black and white
- Load exiting the light fixture box has its black and white

If I connect all the blacks and whites together, is this okay or do I have to use a pigtail where the line and load and pigtail connects together and pigtail connects to the light fixture.

logic tells me there is no need for pigtail, But I wanted to check
 
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Old 03-30-18, 04:56 AM
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You have a parallel circuit when you connect all the blacks together, and connect all the whites together.

You have a series circuit when you connect the power to the blakc of the first fixture, connect the white of the first fixture to the black of the second fixture, connect the white of the second ... . Now you can say that a properly wired switch is in series with the light.

Pigtails are not needed just for the sake of using pigtails. If the light fixture has black and white leads coming out instead of screw terminals then you would not arbitrarily use pigtails. Pigtails are used for example (1) as jumpers when the wires provided don't reach, and (2) when 2 wires want to go under one screw. A smaller gauge pigtail is also recommended coming into a panel with a fatter wire than superficially appropriate (put there for convenience or to reduce voltage drop and going into a breaker whose rating is smaller than the incoming wire suggests e.g. mixed 12 and 14 gauge circuit with 12 gauge wire coming into the panel in which case you use a 14 gauge pigtail to the maximum allowed 15 amp breaker).

Note: If the incoming and continuing hots including in a multiwire branch circuit are wire nutted directly to each other then the incoming and continuing neutrals must also be connected directly to each other. This sometimes forces you to use a pigtail to the neutral terminal(s) of a receptacle instead of connecting the wires directly to the receptacle.
 

Last edited by AllanJ; 03-30-18 at 05:12 AM.
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Old 03-30-18, 05:08 AM
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Understood, thank you so much for detailed explanation.
 
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