What does this disconnect panel do?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
What does this disconnect panel do?
So long story short, I've psyched myself up and have viewed a ton of Youtube videos as well as read up forums and other resources on how to replace my 60amp electrical fuse panel with an Eaton 100 amp 10 space, 20 circuit panel. The reason I chose this one was for the narrow width, about 10 inches, had to special order from home depot website. I'm very handy, redone my whole apt, put in new kitchen, bathroom, can do basic plumbing and electrical, have installed both gas/electrical water heaters. Having said all this, still slightly nervous with this DIY. Ideally I would like to this install without hot wires, but if need be, I know I can be very careful not to get shock or burn the house down, However I think this panel next to the fuse box, if pulled will shutoff the power from the street. Can someone confirm this for me. It's an older box, Clark Controller Co. it's labeled, TO DISCONNECT PULL OUT. Pics below. FYI, once i'm done, I will have a family friend electrician check out my work. Thanks in advance for any input. Oh and the other question is, what precautions should I take when pulling the panel off. Thanks!
Last edited by BravelikeBull; 05-17-18 at 07:04 PM. Reason: need to add a word
#4
Just yank it.
It contains either a plain switch consisting of two strips that unlatch from respective terminals (one for each leg of the 120/240 volt system), or two fuses in the cover that pull free of the contacts when you pull. In either case it is the master switch for the building.
Its all built into the cover so when you pull it open, all of the live terminals and metal parts except for two clips up top are de-energized. The cover also shields your eyes from the spark that will occur if any power is being drawn. The fuses, if any, are now safe to touch and, if needed, replace.
Long time ago they made the same thing except that the handle you yank is attached to two exposed metal strips (positioned parallel to each other like the Roman numeral 2 or like an equals sign) that unlatch from their respective terminals. That contraption is called a knife switch. (They also made knife switches with one pole, three poles, or maybe more poles for different electrical applications.)
In many cities, electrical work in a multifamily building, a commercial building, or a non-owner occupied house must be done by a licensed electrician.
It contains either a plain switch consisting of two strips that unlatch from respective terminals (one for each leg of the 120/240 volt system), or two fuses in the cover that pull free of the contacts when you pull. In either case it is the master switch for the building.
Its all built into the cover so when you pull it open, all of the live terminals and metal parts except for two clips up top are de-energized. The cover also shields your eyes from the spark that will occur if any power is being drawn. The fuses, if any, are now safe to touch and, if needed, replace.
Long time ago they made the same thing except that the handle you yank is attached to two exposed metal strips (positioned parallel to each other like the Roman numeral 2 or like an equals sign) that unlatch from their respective terminals. That contraption is called a knife switch. (They also made knife switches with one pole, three poles, or maybe more poles for different electrical applications.)
In many cities, electrical work in a multifamily building, a commercial building, or a non-owner occupied house must be done by a licensed electrician.
Last edited by AllanJ; 05-17-18 at 07:47 PM.
#5
Pretty big house to have three residential meters and a house meter.
Very doubtful the wiring is large enough from the meter to the panel.
That same wiring may be too short to be helpful.
I see rust on the bottom of the disconnect.
All loads should be disconnected before pulling that main.
I'd recommend you get your "electrician friend" there before you do any work to look at it.
Very doubtful the wiring is large enough from the meter to the panel.
That same wiring may be too short to be helpful.
I see rust on the bottom of the disconnect.
All loads should be disconnected before pulling that main.
I'd recommend you get your "electrician friend" there before you do any work to look at it.
#6
If the panel is only fed with 60 amp conductors the new panel will not provide overcurrent protection with a 100 amp breaker.
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
What a great community this is! Thank you for all the feedback, much appreciated and much to think about. It’s a 100 year old home and needs some tlc. I like the diy mentality, it’s not just about cost, although it would save me a bundle, but I like the accomplishment aspect, something I can add to the belt. I like taking a step back, looking at a nice clean job, worthy of a professional’s praise. I live in a state where they allow me to do my own work, however the town says owners can only work on single and 2 family owner occupied home, obviously I have a three family.
Again, thank you all!
Again, thank you all!