Hi guys. I have a problem with my welder kicking out the main 50 amp breaker. What i don't understand, is i have a secondary box, with the welder connected to a 30 amp breaker, after the main 50 amp breaker, but the 30 amp breaker ( which is 5 feet away, versus the 50 amp breaker's 50 yard distance ) never kicks out? Do i have a bad 50, or 30 amp breaker?

I am looking to put an Interlock on my main house panel to get 50A power from my portable generator. I initially was going to use a transfer switch, however like the flexibility of being able to run any circuit(within the power range of the generator), if we decide to use another part of the house during an outage. I’ve been researching using an Interlock, and believe I have a plan. Along with this, I’ve come up with some questions. My power comes into the house through a 200A main breaker on the exterior of the house. This box feeds the main sub panel in the garage, as well as my pool panel on the opposite exterior wall. The sub panel in the garage houses all of the circuits for the house itself. There is no main breaker in this sub panel. Here is my plan, with an illustration. Move my existing breakers down in the existing panel. Add a 50A QO breaker(QO250CP) in the top right position, to work with the interlock. I would also need to add a main breaker in the sub panel. I had planned on a 200A QO Main Breaker (QOM2200VH). From here I would use the SqD QO Interlock Kit (QOCGK2C) on the panel cover. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v165/TellyDSP/CIRCUIT%20RECONFIG.jpg[/IMG] For the inlet, I was going to run 4 #6 THHN (R/B/G/W) through ¾ Sch 40 RNC/PVC conduit from an outside inlet (Reliance PNB50). This would feed into the breaker box and connect to the new 50A breaker. Approximate distance of the run is 30 feet. I will be going up the surface of the outside wall, through the soffit, across a small portion of attic, and down the interior garage wall. I’ll most likely run down the surface of the garage wall. The local code says Sch 80 is only required if the run is prone to damage, which it’s not. Otherwise the county chart says 4 conductors is acceptable for ¾”. Any conflict with NEC? All that said, I have some other questions. First, does it make sense? Second, my local code mentions a fill if the conduit is subject to temperature changes. Can anyone elaborate? Will I need this on the drop from the attic, through the soffit, to the outside wall? It’s FL, the temperature change would be from hotter to hot. Here’s the section… [B]E3802.6Raceways exposed to different temperatures.[/B] Where portions of a raceway or sleeve are known to be subjected to different temperatures and where condensation is known to be a problem, as in cold storage areas of buildings or where passing from the interior to the exterior of a building, the raceway or sleeve shall be filled with an approved material to prevent the circulation of warm air to a colder section of the raceway or sleeve. [300.7(A)] Third, my local electrical supply shop said he doesn’t think I can add a main breaker to the sub panel, because the cover does not look like it’s made for it. He said the punch out is too big. I went and looked at the 200A QO Main I plan to use, and it’s huge. Can someone tell me if a Main can be added to the configuration pictured? The box label says is a BX30D/K enclosure, using a QOC30UF cover. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v165/TellyDSP/20180521_085727%202.jpg[/IMG] Finally, something I haven’t been able to find, although it’s probably in plain sight. Does the Neutral get run to the Neutral bar, coming in from the generator. It doesn’t look like the Neutral and Ground are wired together in the box. I found mention of both hots and the ground, but not the neutral. I’d like to do the work myself, since I like to learn about my house and how it works. So I plan to do this all to code and have it inspected. I’m assuming it still requires inspection, even if the homeowner is doing it, right?