irrigation pump timer
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irrigation pump timer
Hello,
Looking for an irrigation pump timer, preferably digital.
Currently have 1.5 HP Goulds Irrigator. Wired 240v. Thinking of upgrading to GT 20 2HP, so the ability to also use on that potential pump would be good.
What I have found so far is the Intermatic EH40. However, this is only rated to 1.5HP so that would limit me going to the GT 20.
Thanks in advance.
Looking for an irrigation pump timer, preferably digital.
Currently have 1.5 HP Goulds Irrigator. Wired 240v. Thinking of upgrading to GT 20 2HP, so the ability to also use on that potential pump would be good.
What I have found so far is the Intermatic EH40. However, this is only rated to 1.5HP so that would limit me going to the GT 20.
Thanks in advance.
#4
You won't find the heavier current capacity on the lower priced units. Personally I don't find that any of these timers hold up well switching heavy loads. I use basic timer modules to control a contactor. A little more work in setup as the system would need to be assembled but much longer lasting.
This is one of the higher current digital timers from Intermatic.
Intermatic-ET8215C-Electronic-Astronomic-Timeclock
This is one of the higher current digital timers from Intermatic.
Intermatic-ET8215C-Electronic-Astronomic-Timeclock
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Not sure why but I am unable to reply to individual posts.
Thanks pugsl. I saw all of these but was hoping to get some feedback on ones the professionals on this site may use.
Geochurchi, I only have (1) zone of 11 Rainbird rotors off a 2" PVC line that runs the back, side and front of my lot (on a corner). Flip a switch and they all turn on at once.
Pete, thanks for the link and information on the set-up you use.
Thanks pugsl. I saw all of these but was hoping to get some feedback on ones the professionals on this site may use.
Geochurchi, I only have (1) zone of 11 Rainbird rotors off a 2" PVC line that runs the back, side and front of my lot (on a corner). Flip a switch and they all turn on at once.
Pete, thanks for the link and information on the set-up you use.
Last edited by 7474; 07-21-18 at 11:54 AM.
#8
There are many combinations available. I use a certain 12vdc timer module but that requires a power supply from 240vac to 12vdc. In your case it would be easier to use a self container 240v timer like in the following link.
ebay/LCD-Digital-Control-Power-Programmable-Timer-Weekly-16A-Time-Relay-Switch
As far as a contactor.... search for 2 pole 240v contactor 240vac coil.
Here's one from the depot that would be perfect. Get several. When one wears out... replace it.
Packard-208-240-Volt-Coil-Voltage-F-L-Amp-30-Pole-2-Res-40-Amp-Definite-Purpose-Contactor
ebay/LCD-Digital-Control-Power-Programmable-Timer-Weekly-16A-Time-Relay-Switch
As far as a contactor.... search for 2 pole 240v contactor 240vac coil.
Here's one from the depot that would be perfect. Get several. When one wears out... replace it.
Packard-208-240-Volt-Coil-Voltage-F-L-Amp-30-Pole-2-Res-40-Amp-Definite-Purpose-Contactor
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Geo...
I flip a switch in the garage, turns on the pump at the lake, supplies water to all 11 rotors at the same time. There is only 1 zone of 11 rotors.
I flip a switch in the garage, turns on the pump at the lake, supplies water to all 11 rotors at the same time. There is only 1 zone of 11 rotors.
Last edited by 7474; 07-21-18 at 08:23 PM.
#12
OK GOT IT! Here is another option with less parts, rated for 3HP.
https://images.homedepot-static.com/...389a7bf647.pdf
Just a thought.
Geo
https://images.homedepot-static.com/...389a7bf647.pdf
Just a thought.
Geo
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Thanks Geo. I had seen those previously and was turned off by the price (~$200). Although, I looked again and found 2hp versions without rain sensor for $50 at HD. The one I had previously looked at was a 3hp with rain sensor.
The saving money side of me would like to go with Pete's version. However, I am a visual guy and haven't been able to find a wiring diagram for how I would set-up.
Thanks again for everyone's assistance.
The saving money side of me would like to go with Pete's version. However, I am a visual guy and haven't been able to find a wiring diagram for how I would set-up.
Thanks again for everyone's assistance.
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Could either of these be used in conjunction with the contactor for creating a pump timer? Thanks.
https://yourhome.honeywell.com/en/pr...witch-rpls540a
https://customer.honeywell.com/en-US...uct.Rank&asc=1
https://yourhome.honeywell.com/en/pr...witch-rpls540a
https://customer.honeywell.com/en-US...uct.Rank&asc=1
#15
Either could be used, as long as the coil voltage on the contactor is 120 volts, IMO a single irrigation timer would be a lot easier, unless you are planning to remote mount that switch.
Geo
Geo
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Thanks for the reply.
I’m starting to think also that the single switch would be easier, although pricier. Especially since I would like a digital timer.
Thanks again for everyone’s input/assistance.
I’m starting to think also that the single switch would be easier, although pricier. Especially since I would like a digital timer.
Thanks again for everyone’s input/assistance.
#18
Both of those timers you linked to require 120vac..... so make sure you have a 120v at your pump.
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Thanks Pete.
The pump is 240, but there is 120 also available.
I assume the 240 line is one end of the contactor and the 240 load is the other end? Is the timer wired into the sides of the contactor?
Thanks for your continued help.
The pump is 240, but there is 120 also available.
I assume the 240 line is one end of the contactor and the 240 load is the other end? Is the timer wired into the sides of the contactor?
Thanks for your continued help.
#20
240v line goes to the L1 and L2 connections. Pump/load connects to T1 and T2.
The timer will connect to the coil. Those connections are on the side.
Since you will be using a 120v timer..... you'll need a contactor with a 120vac coil.
The timer will connect to the coil. Those connections are on the side.
Since you will be using a 120v timer..... you'll need a contactor with a 120vac coil.
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Thanks Pete.
Something like this.....
Packard Online Item Details
or this....
http://www.packardonline.com/Shop/Product/2508
Something like this.....
Packard Online Item Details
or this....
http://www.packardonline.com/Shop/Product/2508
Last edited by 7474; 07-24-18 at 07:29 PM.
#27
Assuming you mounted the contactor in a metal enclosure you would attach the grounds to a lug installed in the box after scraping any paint off first.
Geo
Geo
#29
Good move on the plastic, I would try to attach it to the base of the contractor, use a small lug.
Geo
Geo
#31
I might have put a small nut and bolt and washer through one of the holes in the contactor base, theoretically a screw is only supposed used for one purpose.
Geo
Geo
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Thanks for the reply.
I will go back and change it out.
Does the 120 V connect to the contactor on opposite sides or the same side? I’ve seen it both ways, but more frequently opposite sides.
I will go back and change it out.
Does the 120 V connect to the contactor on opposite sides or the same side? I’ve seen it both ways, but more frequently opposite sides.
#34
Usually there is a double slide contact on both sides.
Some do connect to one side but will be labeled that way.
There is no polarity to the connections.
Some do connect to one side but will be labeled that way.
There is no polarity to the connections.
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Thanks for the continued assistance.
I believe the project is a success. The timer is operational.
Originally, the pump switch shared a 2 gang PVC box with a GFCI outlet. The box measured 4.5 x 4.5 x 2, not enough room for the contactor. So, I added a 6 x 6 x 4 junction box to the front of the original box. I cut out the back of the larger box and attached it to the original box. May not be the prettiest, but it sits on the side wall of the garage right by the radon pipe so it doesn’t stick out an unsightly amount.
I had to go with a different timer as the ones I had were no neutral and required a minimum amount of constant wattage to power them. This timer has a neutral and is powered off the load side of the GFCI so I also have that added protection.
I have attached a photo of my final product. As well, there’s a photo of my fixed grounding lug.
Again, thanks for all of the assistance.
I believe the project is a success. The timer is operational.
Originally, the pump switch shared a 2 gang PVC box with a GFCI outlet. The box measured 4.5 x 4.5 x 2, not enough room for the contactor. So, I added a 6 x 6 x 4 junction box to the front of the original box. I cut out the back of the larger box and attached it to the original box. May not be the prettiest, but it sits on the side wall of the garage right by the radon pipe so it doesn’t stick out an unsightly amount.
I had to go with a different timer as the ones I had were no neutral and required a minimum amount of constant wattage to power them. This timer has a neutral and is powered off the load side of the GFCI so I also have that added protection.
I have attached a photo of my final product. As well, there’s a photo of my fixed grounding lug.
Again, thanks for all of the assistance.
Last edited by 7474; 07-29-18 at 08:10 PM.
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The GFCI was a 20amp breaker with 12ga wire. The timer is 15amp.
I have read that it is not permitted to have the 15amp timer on a 20amp breaker. However, I have also read that it is permissible if it is not the only thing on the circuit.
I changed the breaker to a 15amp to be safe until I found out more.
If the 15amp timer is permitted on the 20amp circuit, can I use 14ga wire to connect the timer to the GFCI receptacle and the contactor?
Thanks
I have read that it is not permitted to have the 15amp timer on a 20amp breaker. However, I have also read that it is permissible if it is not the only thing on the circuit.
I changed the breaker to a 15amp to be safe until I found out more.
If the 15amp timer is permitted on the 20amp circuit, can I use 14ga wire to connect the timer to the GFCI receptacle and the contactor?
Thanks
#39
15 Amp receptacle on a 20 Amp circuit is fine as far as I know,and the timer as well, you could leave the 15Amp breaker for the circuit, I would use #12 for the complete circuit.
Geo
Geo
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Thanks for the reply.
I would like like to change it back to the 20amp because the GFCI is used for powering various wood working power tools. However, need to continue to research the ability to use the 15a timer on the 20a circuit.
Also, would like to keep the 14g as that is the only stranded wire I have. I believe u can only use stranded wire with the quick disconnects that the contactor requires for the coil. I will have to continue to research the use of solid vs stranded with the quick disconnects.
I would like like to change it back to the 20amp because the GFCI is used for powering various wood working power tools. However, need to continue to research the ability to use the 15a timer on the 20a circuit.
Also, would like to keep the 14g as that is the only stranded wire I have. I believe u can only use stranded wire with the quick disconnects that the contactor requires for the coil. I will have to continue to research the use of solid vs stranded with the quick disconnects.