Outlet hot - Pump not working!

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  #1  
Old 08-30-18, 02:24 PM
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Outlet hot - Pump not working!

Here is a twister for one of you gentle people that have great depth of knowledge.

I have a pool in the backyard and the pump is connected to a turn lock receptacle. The receptacle is wired directly to the box on its own breaker 20 amp.

About 4 feet from that outlet is a outlet that is at the end of the run with a GFI on it. I hoked my pump to the turn lock and turned it on, and nothing. No hum, no spin, no nothing.

So for giggles I created a connector box that allows me to plug the turn lock into it but has a regular 3 prong on the plug. I plug that into the GFI, that again is on the same run as the turn lock and presto the pump runs like a charm.

So I get out my Fluke and measure the voltage at the turn lock and sure enough 120 volts. I measure the voltage at the GFI and 120 volts. Now I am going crazy.

So for giggles (yes I giggle a lot or I will start banging my head against the wall) I plug the pool turn lock plug into the turn lock receptacle just enough to get power to the pump but still have some of the blade out so I can measure the voltage and still 120 volts. I even went so far as to turn the pump on thinking maybe when it draws something happens, but nope, still doesn't run.

Does anyone have any idea on what I need to look for or specifically what is happening? I will greatly appreciate your thoughts.

The breaker - good
the turn lock outlet - good
the regular outlet - good

I even used my single prob tester that beeps when it gets near voltage and it beeped at all the right places. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you.
 
  #2  
Old 08-30-18, 02:39 PM
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A connection failing under load. Leave the twist lock wires dangling, twist lock still connected, plug in pump, measure voltage when pump tries to run.
 
  #3  
Old 08-30-18, 05:20 PM
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Still shows 120 volts. The pump makes no sound. When I plug it back into the other receptacle off it goes.
 
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Old 08-30-18, 06:25 PM
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It sounds like you are measuring 120v from hot to ground.
You may be missing the neutral at the twist lock receptacle.
 
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Old 08-30-18, 06:56 PM
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Measure voltage from hot to ground and also hot to neutral and report back.
 
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Old 09-01-18, 10:29 AM
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Sorry for the delay but here is what I get when measuring the voltage
 
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  #7  
Old 09-01-18, 12:39 PM
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I can't see what series twist lok that is but I'm fairly certain in the left hand picture that pin you aren't testing at the moment is the hot one as it looks like the small slot.

The model number or seeing all three slots not blocked would help.

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Last edited by PJmax; 09-02-18 at 09:48 AM.
  #8  
Old 09-02-18, 08:44 AM
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I hope this will be clearer
 
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  #9  
Old 09-02-18, 08:59 AM
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Did you also check between neutral and hot?
It appears your neutral is hot as well. It is possible your neutral and hot are connected to the same hot pole. If you get 0V between neutral and hot, we can confirm this is the case. If you get 240V, probably fried the pump.
Check the wiring at the breaker panel.
 
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Old 09-02-18, 09:49 AM
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You are showing your hot power on the keyed slot which is supposed to be ground. That may not be your only problem. You'll need to confirm how your pump is wired on the plug. I added voltage measurements to my previous post.

Green should be on the keyed pin.
Black on the small slot.
White on the large slot.
 
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Old 09-02-18, 10:00 AM
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It appears you have the hot on the ground pin. Rewire according to Cjmax's photo. Rewire the plug on the cord to match also.
 
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Old 09-03-18, 06:46 PM
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Here is the plug. You can see (I hope) on the wire side there are markings a W and G. I wired it as such. You can also see on the second photo the white wire is connected to the smaller slot.
 
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Old 09-03-18, 07:18 PM
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I can't see any letters.
Is the green wire on the green screw and is that the keyed slot ?
 
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Old 09-03-18, 07:29 PM
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How is it wired on the other side?
Wire colors are meaningless if the other side is wired wrong.
 
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Old 09-04-18, 07:50 AM
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Here is how the wiring is for the slots. I checked both ends and they are correct to each other.
 
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  #16  
Old 09-04-18, 12:05 PM
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Did you measure voltage between neutral and hot yet?
You are getting 120V between ground and neutral. That means it is wired wrong somewhere.

It may have been wired wrong from the beginning and has both hot and neutral wired to hot.
You may have a open neutral if there is any other loads attached to the same circuit.
You may have both open neutral and short between hot and neutral.

No way to find out for sure unless you open every splices until you find the problem.
 
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Old 09-04-18, 02:48 PM
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I want to thank everyone for helping me. It is always great to ask something in this forum and get so many people wanting to help.

Here is how it finally resolved. I found out today that there is an electrician who lives on the block behind me. He owns his own company and mostly does generator installs for Generac but also does electrical work.

I called him he stopped over on his wan home from a generator install had someone who works for him with him. The young guy opened the receptacle, checked the wiring, closed it up and plugged the pump in and off it went. When I asked him what he found, he said it seemed the wires were to close together and may have shorted the neutral. He cleaned it up and now it works like a charm.

No Charge! Can you imagine. So I had him look at another job I want to do and he said he would be happy to help out (for a price of course but a very fair price). It's nice to know people like this are still around. I gave the guy a tip and off they went and everything is working as it was.

Again thanks for all your time I include all of you in that statement about it's nice to know people like all of you and him are still around to help when someone is stranded.
 
  #18  
Old 09-04-18, 06:28 PM
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he said it seemed the wires were to close together and may have shorted the neutral.
If neutral was shorted to hot without a open neutral, it should have tripped breaker.
I suspect there may have been a loose wire inside.
 
 

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