Help adding 2 power outlets

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Old 11-11-18, 08:20 PM
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Help adding 2 power outlets

I took the advice in another thread to add 2 outlets instead of using extension cords (fire hazard). I need one outlet by the window (for the portable AC unit) and another outlet to the left for the 1,500 watt oil heater (I want the heat to be near the foot of the bed -- not the head of the bed). Long story short but the other circuits in the room will be overloaded by these appliances -- I must tap into the outlet in the foreground.
I bought my 14/2 cabling, got my kit for drilling studs with the long bendable bit, got my blue after-work boxes, etc. Now I'm plotting what to do. I assume that I need to tap into the outlet in the foreground. So where would you cut into the wall (besides where my new outlets will go)? Going around that corner looks like trouble. I'm guessing that I need to cut a hole after the corner (on the far wall). Any advice appreciated.

BTW the breaker box is about 8 feet to the right, just outside this room.
The bed has been moved (to the left) away from the wall.

Here's the room.
https://i.imgur.com/nzJORFG.jpg
 
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Last edited by ray2047; 11-11-18 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 11-11-18, 08:41 PM
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If you need new receptacles for capacity you will need to run from the panel and add a new breaker. Tapping into the existing circuit to feed them will electrically be the same as the extension cord.
 
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Old 11-11-18, 09:27 PM
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Do you have an unfinished attic above or unfinished basement below? Please post a picture of the breaker box and area around it. How to add images. (May not work on some phones.)
 
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Old 11-11-18, 09:48 PM
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Tapping into the existing circuit to feed them will electrically be the same as the extension cord.
Really? You mean just as much of a fire hazard?

There is no basement or attic above.
 
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Old 11-11-18, 11:44 PM
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Tapping into the existing circuit to feed them will electrically be the same as the extension cord.
Is that because a circuit has to run in-line and not in a Y formation?
 
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Old 11-12-18, 12:48 AM
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You mean just as much of a fire hazard?
No, but an existing circuit already has existing loads and therefore limited capacity. A heater on high uses almost all of the available capacity of a 15 amp circuit. A portable A/C half the available capacity.Breakers may trip.

You may want to research using wiremold to wire from the panel.
 
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Old 11-12-18, 09:24 AM
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Drilling through a number of studs is doable, but will be a lesson in expletives. Those long bendy bits are great, but take some practice to use and can end up in places you don't expect.

If you have an attic or basement, that's most likely the way to go.

And I agree with Ray, if you're going through the hassle of running new cable and new receptacles, you might as well go the extra 8' to your breaker box and never worry about a tripping breaker again!
 
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Old 11-12-18, 10:52 AM
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No, but an existing circuit already has existing loads and therefore limited capacity.
I picked this particular outlet to tap into because I AFAICT nothing else is controlled by this line. See pic of inside of outlet. 2 blue wires are capped off inside. I just found the one single outlet in this bedroom that this breaker controls.

Just tapping into the line would be cheaper for me. If I had to run to the breaker I'd have to hire an electrician to finish off that part of it.

But you've got me thinking about running to the breaker. If I did that then I'd actually want to stick just one outlet on this other adjacent wall by another window. This would work out well because the noisy AC unit would be farther from my guest's head(s) when trying to sleep. And during the winter they could use this same outlet for the heater because it's close to the foot of the bed (not the head part). But I worry about running across the top of this doorway. There's a lot of weight on this doorway (you can see the roof beams rest up there). Are electrical cables normally run across the top of doorways? I might want to cut into the drywall at each stud and just shave off enough of the end of each stud to fit the cable past.

The other adjacent wall (The big white box represents where the breaker box is behind the wall):

https://i.imgur.com/yawHUpI.jpg
Breaker box:

https://i.imgur.com/Gm4kKzP.jpg
Inside of the outlet:

https://i.imgur.com/suFjmQt.jpg
 

Last edited by AndyRooney; 11-12-18 at 12:13 PM.
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Old 11-12-18, 01:04 PM
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Just because that outlet appears to be at the end of the line does not mean that here are no other outlets before it.

Is your panel outside? You could run a new circuit in exposed conduit on the outside of the house to the location by the window. Same path you show but outside.
 
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Old 11-12-18, 02:53 PM
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Just because that outlet appears to be at the end of the line does not mean that here are no other outlets before it.
Is your panel outside?
Well I shut off the breaker that controls the one outlet in this bedroom. I tested outlets and lights all throughout the house, garage and outside. All were working.
Circuit breaker box is outside.
This house was built in 1956. There is also an old fuse box outside. Maybe this outlet used to run to the fuse box.
I'm good with drywall. Maybe I'll cut out a line in the drywall across the doorway, then patch it up with 1/4" drywall so the cable fits in there.
 
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Old 11-12-18, 03:16 PM
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By code any wire or cable less than 1.5 inches from the wall surface must be protected from damage. Cable buried in drywall is prohibited. If cable goes through a stud but is less than 1.5 inches in it must be protected by a metal plate.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/USP-5-in-x-...-Plate/3374518
 
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Old 11-12-18, 03:40 PM
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By code any wire or cable less than 1.5 inches from the wall surface must be protected from damage. Cable buried in drywall is prohibited. If cable goes through a stud but is less than 1.5 inches in it must be protected by a metal plate.
In that case I'll run it through some conduit across the top of the door. I really don't want to weaken the crippler studs up there. It will stick out by 0.2 of an inch if I set it in the drywall. Or maybe I'll run it outside as someone suggested. Might have to do the same down along side of the window. When I replaced it I don't remember much space in there.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-x...3428/100400405
No, but an existing circuit already has existing loads and therefore limited capacity. A heater on high uses almost all of the available capacity of a 15 amp circuit. A portable A/C half the available capacity.Breakers may trip.
BTW I don't get how I'm adding to the load by simply adding an outlet so that I can run the heater over by the window instead of off of the outlet behind the bed (which probably won't be used anyway). I'm still running the heater on the same circuit.
 

Last edited by AndyRooney; 11-12-18 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 11-12-18, 04:35 PM
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run it through some conduit across the top of the door
Use surface mounted raceway. Less work, looks better. Available at big box stores and Amazon.

https://www.legrand.us/wiremold/race...d-raceway.aspx
 
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Old 11-12-18, 06:35 PM
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Just a thought of mine
If you are going to go through all of this trouble for a space heater why not install a permanent heater (Ex: Baseboard or a wall heater) the heater can be bought with a built in thermostat so a wall one will not be necessary (Unless you want to go that route)
 

Last edited by CircuitBreaker; 11-12-18 at 06:46 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 11-12-18, 07:48 PM
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I already have the heater (like the portable one below). There's already central heat but I can't really coordinate with my Airbnb guests because the "guest suite" is separate from my living area.
I also have a portable AC unit. Would like to get it near this particular window so it's not right by their ears when sleeping by the other window.

I think I will run my conduit outside to work around the door. Will post pics when done. Thanks for the help.

https://cloudfront.zoro.com/product/...rIK0hcpEx_.JPG
 
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Old 11-14-18, 06:35 PM
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I ran into trouble making the turn around a corner of the house. I wasn't able to merge 2 drilled holes together inside what I think was a 4 X 4, so I stuffed the drill holes with wood patcher and I jammed some split wood in there to strengthen it.

I could run pipes around the outside of the house to get past this corner, but now I'm wondering how long it would take for an electrician to finish my job by just running the line up about 2 feet into the breaker and connecting it to a breaker. I was told once upon a time that I have some unused breakers in there. Less than an hour of work?
 
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