Fish tape cable getting stuck at elbow joints
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Fish tape cable getting stuck at elbow joints
I bought this fish tape ( https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-...21PN/303630362 ) and it just plain will not go around simple elbow bends. It gets stuck at the first joint. In looking at the end of this product I can see that the problem is that the end is square and not round. Anyone have any solution to make this thing work? Maybe tape a paper clip on the end or something?
https://i.imgur.com/dqrIWIO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dqrIWIO.jpg
#2
You shouldn't be using elbows..... you should be using sweeps. Large diameter bends. If this is what you are using..... there may be burrs at the couplers that should be filed.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
I am using long sweeps. Electrical PVC elbows -- not sprinkler PVC elbows. Here's an example of what i'm using https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-2...-CAR/206985723
If the end of the tape was round it would make it past.
If the end of the tape was round it would make it past.
#4
First that fish tape is not very good for running in conduit. You should be using a 1/8" wide one. Second it helps to have a leader installed on the end of the fish tape. It is a spring like end you install that helps go around bends.
#5
I hadn't looked that tape up. It has a specific purpose like under rug use.
From the product overview....
From the product overview....
Low-memory tape does not curl during extension - perfect for non-conduit situations
#6
Member
Thread Starter
First that fish tape is not very good for running in conduit. You should be using a 1/8" wide one. Second it helps to have a leader installed on the end of the fish tape. It is a spring like end you install that helps go around bends.
#7
That's what Tolyn was referring to but that one is for a 1/8" snake.
Pick up a 1/8" snake. You can use the hook that it comes with for short runs.
1/8" fish tape
Pick up a 1/8" snake. You can use the hook that it comes with for short runs.
1/8" fish tape
#10
Member
Thread Starter
OK I bought this Gardener Bender 50' steel fish tape with the 1/8 steel tape and the rounded paper clip shaped end (by the way, absolute CRAP product, pain in the ass to unravel and cannot figure out how to wrap it back in. Do NOT EVER buy this product. $28 waste of money). Well this thing was ALSO getting stuck on burrs in the bend. FINALLY I was able to get it to pull past the bends but now the wires are just stuck in there from all the friction. This leads me to my next question... Is UF-B 12/2 meant to fit inside 1/2 PVC conduit in the first place? Or should I have been using 3/4" PVC?
#11
Non metallic cables like romex and UF are not designed to be pulled in conduit.
Sometimes a short piece of conduit is used as a protective sleeve.
It would have been much easier to pull in 3/4" conduit.
You could use a little bit of dishwashing soap to aid in the installation.
Sometimes a short piece of conduit is used as a protective sleeve.
It would have been much easier to pull in 3/4" conduit.
You could use a little bit of dishwashing soap to aid in the installation.
#12
Member
Thread Starter
I guess the problem is that I'm going up through the inside of the house, then along the outside of the house for about 20 fee then back inside and down to my new outlet. I was hoping to use one long line of UF-B. Are you saying that the wire shealthing is meant to be taken off?
I will give 3/4 a try. Maybe somebody makes some sort of grease for running through conduit.
I will give 3/4 a try. Maybe somebody makes some sort of grease for running through conduit.
#13
No.... the sheath (jacket) needs to be left intact inside the conduit.
If you're going back to the store.... you can pick up wire pulling compound.
One example.... Pulling compound
If you're going back to the store.... you can pick up wire pulling compound.
One example.... Pulling compound
#14
Is UF-B 12/2 meant to fit inside 1/2 PVC conduit in the first place?
That's the problem, UF-B cable is extremely hard to pull into conduit especially PVC conduit. Wire lube might help a little, but a larger conduit will help more.
#15
Member
Thread Starter
Picked up 3/4 PVC. We'll see how it goes.
BTW the fish tape they have at Lowes has 360 degree rounded ends. Should have gone there on day one.
https://mobileimages.lowes.com/produ...8_07901764.jpg
BTW the fish tape they have at Lowes has 360 degree rounded ends. Should have gone there on day one.
https://mobileimages.lowes.com/produ...8_07901764.jpg
#16
That's a fiberfish tape. Those can be problems too going around sharp bends.
They also don't always fit thru a 1/2" EMT fitting.
They also don't always fit thru a 1/2" EMT fitting.
#18
Member
Thread Starter
<Opinion> Try to sell that UF if you can't return it and buy THWN individual wires.
I think I can pull this wire half way, then pull the other half, then just push the middle PVC joint together without PVC cement. It's not going anywhere once I clamp the piping against the wall. This has been a nightmare but hopefully I'm getting close.
#19
Two better routes are to insert a pull string as you assemble or as earlier suggested use a "mouse" and shop vac to pull in a string after assembly.
Using cable outside you must use UF not NM but for a conduit run individual wires are better. What you read wasn't wrong just not the best way.
Using cable outside you must use UF not NM but for a conduit run individual wires are better. What you read wasn't wrong just not the best way.
#20
Member
Thread Starter
Well this UF-B cable is not pulling through 3/4' either. I've tried lubricant and I'm also now using a 1/8 inch wire tape that is not getting stock. It's basically the cable that is too rigid to handle the bends.
I don't get it.... What is even the purpose of UF-B wire if it can't pull through conduit????
What if I removed the sheathing around this cable? That seems like the best solution.
I don't get it.... What is even the purpose of UF-B wire if it can't pull through conduit????
What if I removed the sheathing around this cable? That seems like the best solution.
#21
UFb cable is fir direct burial with no conduit except for short sleeves of conduit to protect it where it such as where it enters and leaves the ground.
Not code compliant because the individual wires aren't labeled.... not that your likely to be able to remove them anyway.
What if I removed the sheathing around this cable? That seems like the best solution
#22
Member
Thread Starter
I was finally able to pull this thing through the first stage. I will have to at some point cement some PVC joints WHILE the cabling is already run through them. Obviously the cement dipper won't work. What do you recommend using to do this? A little paint brush?
Last edited by AndyRooney; 11-20-18 at 04:31 PM.
#23
This is going from bad to worse.
A conduit run is required to be installed (IE: all connections glued, and all conduit secured) before any conductors/cables are installed.
12/2 UF should have not too much trouble going through Sch 40 3/4" PVC unless there are too many bends. I would limit bends to 3 90's between pull points.
A conduit run is required to be installed (IE: all connections glued, and all conduit secured) before any conductors/cables are installed.
12/2 UF should have not too much trouble going through Sch 40 3/4" PVC unless there are too many bends. I would limit bends to 3 90's between pull points.
#24
Member
Thread Starter
Well I'm gonna have to break the rules then.
I should have used one of these gadgets at the half way point.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1...-CAR/300279996
I should have used one of these gadgets at the half way point.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1...-CAR/300279996
#25
Member
Thread Starter
The saga continues. As it turns out, now that I'm using 3/4" PVC instead of 1/2", it won't fit behind the pole (that runs up to the roof from the breaker box). And getting it past other cables and pipes around the corner is just too difficult with 3/4".
Now I'm looking to run it into the breaker box, I assume from the bottom. I'm trying to do as much as possible on my own because this thing is costing me an arm and a leg. I should have just stuck with using an extension cord! I cannot have the electrician do more than an hour of work. I figure I'll have the cables run up to a 45 degree PVC junction box under the breaker box. The only question is WHICH hole (under the breaker box) should I position it under?
https://i.imgur.com/pLEIp5Z.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zDs323R.jpg
Now I'm looking to run it into the breaker box, I assume from the bottom. I'm trying to do as much as possible on my own because this thing is costing me an arm and a leg. I should have just stuck with using an extension cord! I cannot have the electrician do more than an hour of work. I figure I'll have the cables run up to a 45 degree PVC junction box under the breaker box. The only question is WHICH hole (under the breaker box) should I position it under?
https://i.imgur.com/pLEIp5Z.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zDs323R.jpg
#26
Where is this circuit going? Is this inside to the new heater receptacle? If so then maybe come out of the back of the panel. Does your jurisdiction require conduit for inside wiring?
#27
Member
Thread Starter
The wiring goes to one power outlet that will be used for either a 1,500 watt portable heater or a portable AC unit.
Does my jurisdiction require conduit for inside wiring? I don't know. I live in Los Angeles city. I'm running UF-B the entire way. it should be fine. I don't really care about overly restrictive codes.
Come to think of it, a while back when electricians installed a light outside they simply ran a wire up to it -- no conduit. So it must be legal.
Are there holes in back of breaker panels that can be punched out? If so what would be the purpose of going in the back? To cut down on all of the unsightly cables outside?
Does my jurisdiction require conduit for inside wiring? I don't know. I live in Los Angeles city. I'm running UF-B the entire way. it should be fine. I don't really care about overly restrictive codes.
Come to think of it, a while back when electricians installed a light outside they simply ran a wire up to it -- no conduit. So it must be legal.
Are there holes in back of breaker panels that can be punched out? If so what would be the purpose of going in the back? To cut down on all of the unsightly cables outside?
#28
what would be the purpose of going in the back?
Wiremold to the receptacle. Though like your current attempt THHN/THWN would be best choice.
#29
Member
Thread Starter
But I'm looking to run the line into the breaker box so it has its own breaker. The new outlet in the new location is already wired up.
Can you use Wiremold on exteriors? That would be easier to work with running up and around the corner to the outlet.
Can you use Wiremold on exteriors? That would be easier to work with running up and around the corner to the outlet.
Last edited by AndyRooney; 11-21-18 at 03:54 PM.
#30
Can you use Wiremold on exteriors?
386.10 Uses Permitted.
The use of surface metal raceways shall be permitted in the following:
(1) In dry locations.
(2) In Class I, Division 2 hazardous (classified) locations as permitted in 501.10(B)(3).
(3) Under raised floors, as permitted in 645.5(D)(2).
(4) Extension through walls and floors. Surface metal raceway shall be permitted to pass transversely through dry walls, dry partitions, and dry floors if the length passing through is unbroken. Access to the conductors shall be maintained on both sides of the wall, partition, or floor.
The new outlet in the new location is already wired up.
#31
Member
Thread Starter
Wired to what, you asked? Wired up to one of these https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...-0WS/202066674
What you see in the picture is the other end of the grey UF-B wire dangling out of the 3/4' PVC just past the door. I've already painted the PVC white.
Would be nice to go into the wall up high and then into the back of the breaker box if in fact that's possible. Are there holes in back of breaker boxes that can be punched out? Again I would have an electrician do that part. I'm just trying to do as much as I can to keep Mr. Electrician's job short.
What you see in the picture is the other end of the grey UF-B wire dangling out of the 3/4' PVC just past the door. I've already painted the PVC white.
Would be nice to go into the wall up high and then into the back of the breaker box if in fact that's possible. Are there holes in back of breaker boxes that can be punched out? Again I would have an electrician do that part. I'm just trying to do as much as I can to keep Mr. Electrician's job short.
#33
Member
Thread Starter
OK. Seems like running through the top of the outside of the wall is the way to go. I'll pull it through an access hole in the drywall and hope that an electrician can do the job in less than an hour.
Hopefully they don't have a "problem" with me running UF-B through PVC (instead of metal conduit) on the outside.
I read this: 'The NEC does not allow you to run CABLE in conduit unless it is to sleeve the conduit for protection and the conduit can't exceed 24 inches in length. " Mine runs more than 10 feet.
https://weldingweb.com/showthread.ph...-UF-in-conduit
Hopefully they don't have a "problem" with me running UF-B through PVC (instead of metal conduit) on the outside.
I read this: 'The NEC does not allow you to run CABLE in conduit unless it is to sleeve the conduit for protection and the conduit can't exceed 24 inches in length. " Mine runs more than 10 feet.
https://weldingweb.com/showthread.ph...-UF-in-conduit
#34
'the nec does not allow you to run cable in conduit unless it is to sleeve the conduit for protection and the conduit can't exceed 24 inches in length.
#35
Member
Thread Starter
I'm curious, if I were to run Romex up to the point of where my PVC pipes run outside, how do you make the transition to THHN wire? Is a junction box or a pull elbow used where the two are capped together?