Wiring in new addition within 6' of scuttle hole
#1
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Wiring in new addition within 6' of scuttle hole
My new addition will have a scuttle hole for access to blow in insulation and also maybe light storage right next to the scuttle hole only. I know the code calls for wires to be protected within 6' of the scuttle. In the picture below, the scuttle hole will be within 6' but I have the wire running next to the roof joist instead of on top of it. Is this considered adequate protection since its not on top of roof truss joist member?
Also, I have another case where my wire makes a 90 degree turn, how the heck would I protect that with furring strips on both sides? Can I just place my NM-B wire into a conduit and that be considered acceptable for protection? What are my options in this situation?
https://imgur.com/a/pOSDEPd
Thanks to all.
Also, I have another case where my wire makes a 90 degree turn, how the heck would I protect that with furring strips on both sides? Can I just place my NM-B wire into a conduit and that be considered acceptable for protection? What are my options in this situation?
https://imgur.com/a/pOSDEPd
Thanks to all.
#2
AFAIK, the "protection" is to prevent someone from stepping or tripping on the cable, so the cables running along the top of the sill plate should be fine. You may want to add a couple more staples.
Regarding the other cable that runs perpendicular, simply cut yourself a 2x4 and slide it under the cable, then staple the cable to the top, ensuring it is "protected" within 6' of the access.
Regarding the other cable that runs perpendicular, simply cut yourself a 2x4 and slide it under the cable, then staple the cable to the top, ensuring it is "protected" within 6' of the access.
#3
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You can just install a runner when running perpendicular within 6'? I thought it had to be protected with a furring strip on both side of wire so as the wire isn't sticking above furring strip?
#4
You can just install a runner when running perpendicular within 6'? I thought it had to be protected with a furring strip on both side of wire so as the wire isn't sticking above furring strip?
320.23 In Accessible Attics. Type AC cables in accessible attics or roof spaces shall be installed as specified in 320.23(A) and (B).
(A) Where Run Across the Top of Floor Joists. Where run across the top of floor joists, or within 2.1 m (7 ft) of floor or floor joists across the face of rafters or studding, in attics and roof spaces that are accessible, the cable shall be protected by substantial guard strips that are at least as high as the cable. Where this space is not accessible by permanent stairs or ladders, protection shall only be required within 1.8 m (6 ft) of the nearest edge of the scuttle hole or attic entrance.
#5
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Thanks, yeah that's the code I was looking at. I can install the furring strips without problem when the wiring is running straight.. The issue is when it makes a 90 degree turn, how do I protect that portion of the wire that is on a radius?
Dont believe I have to protect the wires in the photo due to being 1.5" below top of ceiling joist and 1.5" above where drywall will be attached..
Dont believe I have to protect the wires in the photo due to being 1.5" below top of ceiling joist and 1.5" above where drywall will be attached..
#6
You should be fine. The code says 'across the top of floor joists'. Those are not across the top of the joist. They are in between the joist.
I believe the reason to be so that when you pile stuff on top of the joist you not be piling on top of the cables. Your cable being in between will not be damaged by piling stuff on top of the joists.
I believe the reason to be so that when you pile stuff on top of the joist you not be piling on top of the cables. Your cable being in between will not be damaged by piling stuff on top of the joists.
#7
The issue is when it makes a 90 degree turn, how do I protect that portion of the wire that is on a radius?
#8
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Here are the 2 scenarios that are in question that are within 6' of scuttle hole entrance.
https://imgur.com/a/9A4czA3
In this image, the wire is below the ceiling joist but dont have 1 1/4" to top of ceiling joist. Even if I move the staple down tight to rim joist of interior wall, I still dont believe I'll have 1 1/4". Would be very close. The scuttle hole is also right adjacent to this wire straight in front of my hand.
https://imgur.com/a/5tPyRAe
In this image, the wire goes overtop the ceiling joist which therefore would need protected due to being within 6' of scuttle hole.
https://imgur.com/a/9A4czA3
In this image, the wire is below the ceiling joist but dont have 1 1/4" to top of ceiling joist. Even if I move the staple down tight to rim joist of interior wall, I still dont believe I'll have 1 1/4". Would be very close. The scuttle hole is also right adjacent to this wire straight in front of my hand.
https://imgur.com/a/5tPyRAe
In this image, the wire goes overtop the ceiling joist which therefore would need protected due to being within 6' of scuttle hole.
#11
I didn't see the second picture. You must have edited your post. I imagine the cable going to the recessed fixture will be just fine. I wouldn't worry about it. The inspector will tell you if it needs something additional when he comes out to inspect your rough-in.
Is there a reason you decided to use 12 AWG Romex for your lights? 14 AWG is all you need and is easier to work with.
Is there a reason you decided to use 12 AWG Romex for your lights? 14 AWG is all you need and is easier to work with.
#12
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I did edit the post due to issues with pictures attaching, sorry about that.
I'd rather spend a little bit extra and run a 20 amp circuit for lights. Just in case we want to switch out LEDs for something that uses more power in the future. Other then that, no real reason. I'm wiring all lights in 24 x 24 addition, including outside lights onto 1 20 amp circuit.
I'd rather spend a little bit extra and run a 20 amp circuit for lights. Just in case we want to switch out LEDs for something that uses more power in the future. Other then that, no real reason. I'm wiring all lights in 24 x 24 addition, including outside lights onto 1 20 amp circuit.
#13
Okay, well, just for example, 14 AWG would give you 1,440W of capacity assuming an 80% load factor, which would be equivalent to 22 recessed cans with 65W incandescent bulbs. Highly doubtful you'll get anywhere near that. It's just more of a PITA when doing your splices and connecting your devices.
#14
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Thanks for the info.. I am putting in 16 recessed cans with LED lights so not much draw. Also have 2 bedroom lights/fans combo units, bathroom fan and lights, 2 closet lights, and 2 outdoor lights
#16
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The second picture with the wire going over top of the truss could be an issue needing protection.