Nutone fan/light/night light wiring
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Nutone fan/light/night light wiring
I'm planning to install a timer for the fan, a switch for the light and another 24 hour programmable timer for the night light. How do I wire the above to the fixture? Having trouble understanding how to make this work as intended.
Here is the wiring diagram from the instructions:
https://imgur.com/a/JTOzUQw
Here is the wiring diagram from the instructions:
https://imgur.com/a/JTOzUQw
#2
You will need to provide power to the switches and timers. You will run a switched hot.to the nightlight, fan and light. Use a conduit like ENT between the switch and unit.
#3
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Thread Starter
You will need to provide power to the switches and timers. You will run a switched hot.to the nightlight, fan and light.
Use a conduit like ENT between the switch and unit.
#4
Is it some kind of code or is just running NM-B fine?
#5
Member
Thread Starter
No, you would not run NM-cable.
What I have is a 3 gang box and a 2 gang box. In the 3 gang is the switch for the fan light, and 2 smart dimmer switches for recessed LED lights.
In the 2 gang is the fan timer and the 24 hour programmable for the night light at fan box.
So I can accomplish my goals by adding ENT from the 3 gang box to the fan box with one hot, one neutral, one ground AND another ENT from the 2 gang box with two hots, one neutral, one ground?
Seems to make it more difficult that there are more then one gang box that has to feed up to the fan/light/night light wiring box. We put all the main lights in the 3 gang to keep them together. Seemed to make the most sense when laying out switch placements.
#6
Yes you understand correctly for the fan but all three functions should be in the same box not a different box for the light. Otherwise you csn only use the ENT for two functions and need a cable for the light to the fan or to the other switch box so you could get full benefit of using ENT.
#7
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Thread Starter
Yes you understand correctly for the fan but all three functions should be in the same box not a different box for the light. Otherwise you csn only use the ENT for two functions and need a cable for the light to the fan or to the other switch box so you could get full benefit of using ENT.
https://imgur.com/a/uXd89Ro
https://imgur.com/a/2P98CP8
#9
Instead of 3 12-2 cab!es you could run a 12-3 and a 12-2 . Black is one switch, red is another.The second black is the last function. You will still have trouble fitting it in the fan junction box.
I don't see how you end up with 8 neutrals to splice in one box.
I don't see how you end up with 8 neutrals to splice in one box.
#11
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Thread Starter
How do I connect ENT conduit to a plastic 3 gang box or can it just run to the box and stop with no connection needed? Location is in wall between studs and I'll have 5 solid THHN wires inside.
All I could find for hanging the ENT is metal clamps, are they fine to use?
Is it acceptable by NEC code to place a junction box first in line in circuit then branch off at jb with three 12/2 romex to feed power to lights in three different rooms?
All I could find for hanging the ENT is metal clamps, are they fine to use?
Is it acceptable by NEC code to place a junction box first in line in circuit then branch off at jb with three 12/2 romex to feed power to lights in three different rooms?
Last edited by Jrk5230; 12-19-18 at 09:05 PM.
#12
Use a threaded connector and dill a hole in the box for it.
You can use straps for pvc conduit.
Yes, if the box remains accessible.
http://www.carlonsales.com/techinfo/faqs/FAQ-ENT.pdf
You can use straps for pvc conduit.
Is it acceptable by NEC code to place a junction box first in line in circuit then branch off at jb with three 12/2 romex to feed power to lights in three different rooms?
http://www.carlonsales.com/techinfo/faqs/FAQ-ENT.pdf
Last edited by ray2047; 12-20-18 at 04:46 AM.
#13
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Thread Starter
The PVC straps seem like they have a much bigger radius then the metal straps for EMT. Still better to go with the PVC? I bought that threaded connector but could not find the plastic but like shown in your photo. Could only find metal ones for EMT but they work as well. Is that fine by code?
the knockouts in plastic boxes arnt the best. They just break out. Do they need plugged eith anything once wire is in box or having that opening with staple within 8" is all I need to be compliant?
thanks
the knockouts in plastic boxes arnt the best. They just break out. Do they need plugged eith anything once wire is in box or having that opening with staple within 8" is all I need to be compliant?
thanks
#15
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Thread Starter
sorry, meant I could not find the nut for inside the box in plastic. The threaded fitting itself that I have is plastic. Is that fine to use the metal nut inside the box or does it have to be plastic?
#17
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Thread Starter
I ran the ENT conduit tonight and drilled hole into plastic 3 gang box with threaded fitting with metal nut. Went pretty well and am happy I chose this method you presented Ray.
On a side note, 3 gang boxes have a lot of sloppy, unwanted give when pressing buttons of devices contained inside them. I like to add a 2x4 between studs and run a screw through the sidewall of plastic box into the 2x4 to make it rigid and solid with no movement. Is it a code violation to have the screw head in side wall of a plastic gang box? I was thinking of just covering them with electrical tape. I'm sure this kind of thing has been done before but not sure if its generally acceptable or will be a failed inspection if caught by inspector.
On a side note, 3 gang boxes have a lot of sloppy, unwanted give when pressing buttons of devices contained inside them. I like to add a 2x4 between studs and run a screw through the sidewall of plastic box into the 2x4 to make it rigid and solid with no movement. Is it a code violation to have the screw head in side wall of a plastic gang box? I was thinking of just covering them with electrical tape. I'm sure this kind of thing has been done before but not sure if its generally acceptable or will be a failed inspection if caught by inspector.
#19
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Thread Starter
I used 3/4" ENT for running my wires to fan box. It appears that the fan box has it's own built in knockout and appears to be smaller (I'd say 1/2") then my ENT conduit. I was going to get a Male threaded ENT connector to connect to fan box but I'm afraid that will not work. I'm having trouble finding a reducer for ENT that I could use to make it 1/2" for trying into fan box. Any suggestions on a remedy? Thanks
#21
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Thread Starter
I have 5 #12 wires within so I made the mistake of going with 3/4 " when I should have went 1/2". I already have everything installed and wires run just not connected to fan box. Might look for some kind of fitting I may be able to use to make it work. Or possibly snip the hole larger on the fan box.
#22
Clamp a wood block inside the fan J-box and use a hole saw to enlarge the hole. The wood block is for the guide drill bit in the center of the hole saw to grip. A step drill may also work. Example: https://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qu...ill-44460.html
Caution Be sure to protect the wires from the fan. Clamping a wood block in the box covering the wire may be the best way.
Caution Be sure to protect the wires from the fan. Clamping a wood block in the box covering the wire may be the best way.
Last edited by ray2047; 01-16-19 at 12:44 PM.