Pool Pump Not Working

Reply

  #1  
Old 05-24-01, 11:19 AM
Guest
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
My pool pump just stopped working. I'd like to test for power before replacing pump/motor.

I removed switch cover and the switch has 4 terminals ..with 2 black wires coming in, connected to 2 top terminals on each side of switch, and 2 black wires connected to 2 terminals on each side of switch at bottom, these wires go out to motor.

How do I test for electrical supply with this configuration ? There are no other wires (red or white) visible in the switch area.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 05-24-01, 02:49 PM
Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Dry Side of Washington State
Posts: 738
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Wink

threepete,

Verify that the pump motor's branch circuit breaker is on. Take voltage readings at the line-side (top) and load-side (bottom) terminals at the switch you referenced. Measure voltage from each conductor to ground. Measure voltage between the two top wires and between the two bottom wires. Measure voltage across the switch between one top wire and the bottom wire below it. Be careful!
 
  #3  
Old 05-24-01, 07:18 PM
Guest
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
did you check the panel for a tripped GFI?
 
  #4  
Old 05-25-01, 08:16 AM
Guest
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Pool Pump Not Working

I checked the main breaker box, nothing tripped. There is no other GFI panel.
 
  #5  
Old 05-25-01, 06:03 PM
Guest
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
threepete;
then you must diagnois as thinman descibes here, and do be careful please.
only one other consideration, is there an internal overload on the motor?, possibly a reset?
 
  #6  
Old 05-25-01, 07:56 PM
Wgoodrich
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
I would start at the motor. There is a small cover plate that you can remove to get to the wires supplying power to that motor. Make sure the cover is off, then turn on the breaker, and the switch calling for the motor to be running. If you have a 220 volt motor then you should have a black and red wire connected inside that motor under the removed plate. IF you have a 120 volt motor you probably will have a black and white wire instead of the black and red. Take a voltage tester and check for voltage where the two insulated wires are connected whether they are black and red or black and white. Make sure you voltage tester is set for 220 volts of more to protect the voltage tester. IF you have voltage between the two insulated wires in the motor then smell of the motor for a burning smell. If you smell burnt smell then take the motor in for testing at a motor shop or replace it. If you have no voltage at the motor between the two insulated wires then back trace to the next junction box, switch, GFI, or breaker until you find the voltage between the two insulated wires.

Like the previous replies I would check to make sure the breaker is not tripped, the GFI is not tripped, and the switch is in the on position during testing.

If you have no voltage at the motor most common problems are the GFI then the switch then the breaker going bad. May also be a bad connection is a junction box. Also check for a fused disconnect somewhere in that line possibly where that circuit leaves the house into the ground.

A GFI should be there if a receptacle is at the pool pump. If the pool pump is direct connected without a receptacle a GFI may not exist but a disconnect for must be there. This disconnect may have tripped or a fuse may have blown.

Hope these suggestions hit what your problem is.

Wg
 
  #7  
Old 05-25-01, 10:11 PM
Guest
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
thanks to all. The problem turned out to be the switch. I had someone more qualified than me come out an check (having a hunch it was electrical and not mechanical) ...so he came, determined it was switch and replaced it ..I'm up and running again .

Still concerned there is no GFI ..the motor is direct connected to box (with manual switch in between) with no access/lever/GFI ... should I worry about it (it was installed by electrician in 1995.
 
  #8  
Old 05-26-01, 06:30 AM
Guest
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
threepete;
you've kinda hit a nerve with that one, basic electricity would dictate that water & people = GFI protection.
The NEC seems to make a big deal over this on some issues, yet does not require it in others.
The rationale escapes me here...
but your hardwired pump motor
is not a violation of 680-6(a), unless it were to be in a non-dwelling ( not a home). Figure that one out!
I'm sure others would elude to statistic, body count, etc., me..i would invest in a 220V GFI breaker if it were my pool, do not be foder for future codes.
 
  #9  
Old 05-26-01, 07:02 AM
Guest
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Thanks wirenuts,
I would agree, I was looking for what I should do, vs. what the code tells me and your reply makes perfect sense to me...just wish the person that originally wired would have felt the same way. I assume when I deal with a "reputable" pool company and their sub-contracted electrician, they would also do what makes sense ..but, I've found that is not alway the case.
I think, and your reply implies that I can just add a GFI breaker in the main panel, and I dont need to add a "sub-panel" (right terminology ?) with a gfi.. and if this is the case ..sounds like something I can pickup at the local do it yourself megastore and install myself (I've added breakers to the panel before so I have some idea what I'm doing there.. do you agree ..anything else I need to know (aside from shutting the main breaker
 
  #10  
Old 05-26-01, 02:54 PM
Wgoodrich
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Wirenuts is right and I agree totally with what he said about the NEC requirements and my thoughts on adding a GFI protection even though the NEC does not require it on hardwired pool pumps. I do question the 220 volt GFI breaker, maybe.

Most pool pumps are what is considered as dual voltage motors. You need to confirm whether youR motor is 120 volt wired or 220 volt wired before you buy a GFI breaker. Most pool pump can be configured for either voltage.

Wg

 
  #11  
Old 05-26-01, 02:55 PM
Guest
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
threepete;
you can exchange the 2-pole breaker that serves you pump with a 2-pole GFI breaker, same amperage.
most of these come with directions, just follow them and you'll be fine. If they are not clear, come back to this BB and inquire.
gook luck.
 
  #12  
Old 05-27-01, 06:14 AM
Guest
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
I'll check out the breaker situation and replace with GFI ..any problems ..I'll come back here ... thanks again
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: