I am retrofitting a Panasonic FV-11VHL2 in a 2nd floor bathroom (attic access above) in place of a Broan 655 that is there currently. I have a 2 gang wall switch with 2 circuits providing power. 1st circuit into switch box is 15 Amp non dedicated for vanity lights and 120 outlet. 2nd circuit into switch box is a dedicated 15 Amp for the Broan 655. It was there when I bought the house. Opun buying the Panasonic FV-11VHL2, I saw that it required a dedicated 20 Amp circuit. I was curious about the Broan 655 requirements and learned that that unit also required a dedicated 20 Amp circuit. I am planning on running a new 20 dedicated circuit for the Panasonic FV-11VHL2. 2 questions:
1) does the recommended switch ( Panasonic FV-WCSW41-W isolate the heater and exhaust fan switches from the light/ nightlight switch? If so then I can use my pre-existing non dedicated 15 Amp circuit to power light in Panasonic FV-11VHL2 along with my vanity lights and 2 120 outlets.
2) I know I need a dedicated 20 Amp, but do I really? Total wattage requirements for the Panasonic FV-11VHL2 are around 1491. Total Amp requirements are 12.5.
Can i supply the Panasonic 4 function switch (FV-WCSW41-W) from 2 different circuits?

Thanks in advance.

 

The wiring for that switch is a closely guarded secret but according to the installation instructions that you should have got with it...... it requires one feed. It doesn't explain how three switches control four functions.

Common feed shunted internally to all switches

 

Thanks. No reason I couldn't include the vanity lights into this switch, though. Correct? Or does that violate code by now not being dedicated?

 

There is no requirement for vanity lights to be dedicated.

 

Yes, I know that. There's no requirement for that, but for ease of use I would like to include the vanity lights into the light circuit for this switch. This would allow me to have a duplex 120 outlet from the other circuit in the 2nd side of the 2 gang box instead of 1 outlet and a switch for the vanity light separately

 

That switch is divided into two parts. 1/3 of it is a double throw switch (3 wires) so for example you select either light or night light. The other 2/3 is two single pole switches with a common feed (fan and heat). So you could have one circuit for the double throw and another for the 2 individual switches.

 

Pjmax... Does internally shunted to all switches mean that the power is fed to all switches instead of being able to "remove the tab" as if to power a duplex outlet from 2 different circuits? Power goes to all of the switches from the single circuit input?

 

Astuff... Your answer conflicts with pjmax's answer.

 

Look at the 3rd picture which shows the back of the switch. 3 wires go to the SPDT top switch. Then three screw terminals for the bottom two switches. The specs do state "Common feed shunted internally to all switches" but that's wrong as that for the 2 and 3 function versions.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Panasoni...-On-Off-Switch

Also the switch is made by Leviton and also marketed as a Nutone - wiring diagram on last page showing line in going to both top SPDT and bottom - http://www.nutone.com/common/product...8-12e955bc97d0

 

Different issue: Bathrooms require a 20amp receptacle near the sink. If you are running new cables you should consider this as you only mentioned a 15 amp receptacle circuit.

 

Astuff ... Yeah, I thought about that too. If I'm gonna add and pull 1 20 Amp circuit, I should probably do 2 to account for the discrepancy in the gfci circuit amperage. The house was built in 1929.i don't know how old the wiring is for either circuit. Not looking forward to pulling those 2 lines. Plaster walls. Trying to sneak up to the attic where either the waste stack does or where they ran the freon line for the central air. Probably go with the latter since that's in an interior wall and my waste stack turns into the foundation with an upward angle.

 

For your other thinking: A heater is normally considered a continuous load which means max of 80% of a circuit. 80% of 15 is 12 amps so the Panasonic with 12.5 amps would not work. That's how they came up with needing 20.

There is also a rule that with the heater fastened in place and being over 50% of the circuit then lighting and receptacles (cord and plug) are not allowed. With that only something like a hard wired towel warmer would be allowed on the same circuit so it is easier for them to specify a dedicated circuit than to try and explain it.

 

Yeah, I get that. It makes sense. Would I be able to move to vanity lights from the nondedicated 15 Amp circuit onto the dedicated 20 Amp circuit for the Panasonic FV-11VHL2 (4 bulb unit currently with 4 7 watt bulbs for a total of 28 watts) . This should only add .25 amps to the 12.5 current draw of the unit?

 

I confirmed with my fluke that the double throw rocker for the light and night light is not internally connected to the supply for the heater/fan. Planning on piggybacking my vanity lights into the light/night light switch. I'll pull 2 new 20 Amp homeruns into the junction/light switch box. I'll have a regular 2 outlet gfci on the left side of 2 gang box on 1 20 Amp circuit. I'll have the Panasonic FV-11VHL2 and vanity lights connected to the Panasonic 4 function switch and fed from the 2nd 20 Amp home run. Even with the added .25 amps from the vanity leds, I'm under the 80% for a 20 Amp circuit. If someone later were to put 4 60 watt incandescent builds in the vanity fixture, that would only add 2 amps to the 12.5 from the Panasonic FV-11VHL2 totalling 14.5 total amps on the 20 Amp circuit... Still under the 80% which would be 16 amps.

 

Sorry for the misinformation. The wiring diagram I have has the right number but wrong diagram.
Thanks A for the excellent link. In fact.... since this is such a mysterious switch... I'm posting the diagram so it stays with the thread.

 

No worries PJ. This is why forums like this exist. Does everything in my prior post seem correct? Thanks again to you both for the help.

 

One circuit for the new switch and one for the GFI receptacle is good.

 

Yep. Trying to figure out a route to pull the new lines in my old house. Lol. Gonna piggyback my vanity lights into the new 4 function switch in the leg for the light. Planning on running 2 12/3 legs from the switch to the unit. Should be good.

 

Good luck. We'll be thinking of you.