Generator idea
#1
Generator idea
I bought a 4k Kw dual fuel generator for emergencies. It only has an RV, L5-30, and 2 120v outlets. At first I thought that I would run a couple of extension cords during a power outage, but then I thought that since I'm refurbing my home, why don't I run the generator to 2 or 3 DEDICATED plugs in the home that I wire for power outages that I can plug my Rinnai heater, fridge and entertainment power strip into if I lose power? That's all I really need to power for days.
I keep propane around for other things, so that works out for fuel. I looked at a 6-circuit transfer switch, which is an option if I get something to convert the L5-30 to an L14-20, but it's also about 60 feet from the generator to the power panel.
You ever hear of anyone that has outlets only for hookup to the generator? Thoughts pro or con?
I keep propane around for other things, so that works out for fuel. I looked at a 6-circuit transfer switch, which is an option if I get something to convert the L5-30 to an L14-20, but it's also about 60 feet from the generator to the power panel.
You ever hear of anyone that has outlets only for hookup to the generator? Thoughts pro or con?
#2
As long as there’s no way to accidentally cross-connect systems, it’s a possibility. But by the time you buy the cabling, inlets, outlets, etc, you’ll probably spend almost as much as you would for a transfer switch.
A transfer switch is your best bet, and will keenthings easy and flexible. You can run a cable (NM-B) to closer to the gen and install an inlet, or you can use a longer extension cord from the gen.
A transfer switch is your best bet, and will keenthings easy and flexible. You can run a cable (NM-B) to closer to the gen and install an inlet, or you can use a longer extension cord from the gen.
#3
Your generator is 120V only. You can convert female end to L14-20 by connecting both hot terminals to same hot wire.
Or, you can get L5-30 generator inlet and jump both hot buses in the transfer panel.
Personally, I would use first option. That way you can just upgrade generator later without rewiring transfer switch.
I also found this adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/AC-WORKS-Gene.../dp/B01MYCFX91
Or, you can get L5-30 generator inlet and jump both hot buses in the transfer panel.
Personally, I would use first option. That way you can just upgrade generator later without rewiring transfer switch.
I also found this adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/AC-WORKS-Gene.../dp/B01MYCFX91
#5
Problem with that is if you have any shared neutrals they could be overloaded.
Total possible amperage will be 30A at 120V. You can treat both legs of the panel as a single bus when they are jumped.
Jump needs to be done with 10AWG or larger wire.
#6
Except that one 14 gauge neutral in one 14-3 or comparable multiwire branch circuit might be carrying all 30 amps (the accompanying red and black carrying 15 amps each).
Not to say that this would happen a lot but it is possible.
Under normal utility operation (or with a 120/240 volt generator) that MWBC neutral would carry the difference in amps of the two halves, near zero amps when the halves are equally, even maximally equally, loaded..
In my basement I installed such a 120 volt onlyindependent circuit fed by a male receptacle,that could be a generator feed but intended for a small surge protector plugged into a regular receptacle next to it. The dedicated regular receptacle were to power electronic equipment,a nd had no connection to the main panel.
The independent wiring would need a panel if the feed (120 volt only or 120/240 volt) is greater than 20 amps. Mine was 20 amps even so it did not have a panel.
Not to say that this would happen a lot but it is possible.
Under normal utility operation (or with a 120/240 volt generator) that MWBC neutral would carry the difference in amps of the two halves, near zero amps when the halves are equally, even maximally equally, loaded..
In my basement I installed such a 120 volt onlyindependent circuit fed by a male receptacle,that could be a generator feed but intended for a small surge protector plugged into a regular receptacle next to it. The dedicated regular receptacle were to power electronic equipment,a nd had no connection to the main panel.
The independent wiring would need a panel if the feed (120 volt only or 120/240 volt) is greater than 20 amps. Mine was 20 amps even so it did not have a panel.